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Old 05-27-2012, 09:44 AM   #29
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When you are in the middle of nowhere with winds in excess of 40 mph, you get desparate tio try anything. This time it worked. Just get a ladder and climb up so you can see where the bungees can be placed over the ends. In our case, my wife got on top of the roof and lay on her belly to put them on. What a woman!
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golden
my wife got on top of the roof and lay on her belly to put them on. What a woman!
Does she train other DW's?
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:51 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golden View Post
When you are in the middle of nowhere with winds in excess of 40 mph, you get desparate tio try anything. This time it worked. Just get a ladder and climb up so you can see where the bungees can be placed over the ends. In our case, my wife got on top of the roof and lay on her belly to put them on. What a woman!
DW like that is hard to find. does she have any sisters?
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:47 AM   #32
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Anti-Billow Lever

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Originally Posted by Clifftall View Post
Yes, thanks, that would help.
Cliff,
Here are a few pictures. I got on the roof and could move the lock bar by hand. It takes some effort to move it but I think you can see how it is suppose to work. You should be able to move yours by hand, enough to tell if the lock bar will hit the 'wedge' or like mine, the gutter, and prevent the topper from rolling out when the slide is closed.

The slide moves the roller away from the coach wall when opening so the lock bar is far enough away that it does not restrict the top from rolling out.

If I had remembered I was going to post some pictures today I would have cleaned all the gunk off the top of the lock bar. Oh well, . . I hope this helps.

My LR slide is 14' long and only has the lock on one end. Since several here have said these do not work in real high winds, I'm going to get a second one and put on the other end.

Wayne
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:57 AM   #33
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Thanks Wayne. That really shows how it works. I wonder why they don't work in high winds. I figure that's what they're there for. I was only able to see the front billowing out through my rear view mirror. I wonder if the whole topper unfurled or just the front part. It's 17 feet , so it might not have gone down the entire length. Or would that not be possible?
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:00 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinkersRanch View Post
My RV has these anti-billow locks.
Many times these anti-billow locks are not installed properly. To work correctly, the arm needs to be at 12:00 when the slide is in. Mine came from the factory in various positions. When I reinstalled them correctly my billowing problem virtually went away.
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sage

Many times these anti-billow locks are not installed properly. To work correctly, the arm needs to be at 12:00 when the slide is in. Mine came from the factory in various positions. When I reinstalled them correctly my billowing problem virtually went away.
Thanks Doug. I'm trying to understand this. If it's at 12:00, the topper has a few inches of movement. Is that the idea , to let it out a little and then prevent it from going out all the way?
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:10 PM   #36
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Many times these anti-billow locks are not installed properly. To work correctly, the arm needs to be at 12:00 when the slide is in. Mine came from the factory in various positions. When I reinstalled them correctly my billowing problem virtually went away.
Hmmm, I think that second sentence may not be totally correct. I say that because I think it depends on the model, brand and length of the awning. Mine, for example, is at approx 1PM when fully closed. That's the only position it can work for me because that's where the two screw holes line up. I think - but am not positive - that as long as you can line up the two screw holes you have a 50-50 chance of being correct - and it will be obvious if you aren't.

I need to add that my first sentence was written from memory because my slides are out and I don't remember what position the lock was when the awning was in! Oh well, the bit about lining up the screw holes is probably the only thing that is accurate. It's a senior Sunday morn!
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:36 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by rgvtexan View Post
You have the arm on the roller tube! Do you have the wedge on the side of the RV, and is it adjusted right?

check here page 8 and 9

http://www.dometic.com/38f21536-3782...80b54963.fodoc
Thanks for the link. I now know how to adjust the topper on the bedroom slide.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:35 AM   #38
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The paperwork that came with my rig said that the "thumbs" should be in the 12:00 position. They are installed with self tapping screws so ignore the existing holes. It has been a while since I readjusted mine but I think I drilled pilot holes and then used the screws. I have the little notched piece on the sidewall and have very little movement when the slide is closed. I think you need some slack to allow the first inch or so of slide movement as it moves out.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:42 AM   #39
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Just proves to me that my original response that it depended on brand, model, etc was correct. Mine came with two screws, one shorter than the other and neither were self tapping. It seems like there are all kinds of answers for this question although you would think that the manufacturer's brochure would be the correct one.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:42 AM   #40
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There are different mfg. and that might account for the differences.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:05 AM   #41
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Great info! I had my drivers side topper billow out in a wind gust. Scared the hell out of us, DW and I were looking at each other with eyes the size of sauce pans. It was the first time it happened, not sure I'd be ready for a second. What a racket.
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:12 PM   #42
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Hi Clifftall
Here’s the wind deflectors I talked about.
This is a 2002 Carefree Omega awning.
It was most likely installed when my HR was built in 2002.
Carefree tried two or three designs to prevent blow-outs but I suspect the wind deflectors finally solved the problem for this model.
A blow-out is caused by the wind flowing up the side of the coach.
When the wind gets to the awning roller some goes in between the side of the coach and the roller.
If the wind pressure in there is greater than the awning spring pressure the awning will un-wind.
Carefree called it Billowing. Sounds better than BLOW-OUT.
I’ve never witnessed a blow-out but I can imagine it’s quite spectacular at speed and most likely disconcerting to the driver.
Especially if he is hoisting a gig gulp to his lips at the time.
Such an event would qualify one to ignore that old “sun over the yardarm” gibberish.
Clearly, the deflectors prevents the wind from getting up under the awning.
If northwest RV can’t help just get some light gauge AL angle and DIY.
Note: my awning will also extend down to shield the windows.
It comes into contact with the deflector and will slowly ware a hole in the fabric by wind moving the fabric.
Go to “Trim-lok” and get some edge trim for the AL to protect the fabric.
I have some in the garage and it will bubble-up to the top of the to-do list one of these days.
PS; the space in the canter of the deflector is for the pull strap.
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