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Old 07-20-2014, 09:14 AM   #1
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Unhappy Water reducer

Does anyone know why when we are using the fresh water tank the toilet does not run continuously, but when we hook up to city water it runs to overflowing. Also we have a reducer at the faucet.


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Old 07-20-2014, 09:22 AM   #2
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I'd want to check with the park to see what the line pressure is , then if you have a basic reducer , replace it with an adjustable one with a gauge.
The basic reducers have been know to fail.

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Old 07-20-2014, 03:25 PM   #3
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Yep. When I began to read your question I thought pressure increase. A significant one.

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Old 07-20-2014, 11:02 PM   #4
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Valve on the toilet also may be getting weak so it is pressure sensitive.
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:51 AM   #5
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u need an adjustable pressure, regulator set at 40 psi
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:20 AM   #6
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Get a quality pressure regulator AND replace the valve on the toilet.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:46 AM   #7
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If I am reading your question properly:
Using on board water no problems
Using park water, with a pressure regulator that is likely toast, Toilet overflows.

FACT: Most RV's say to limit pressure to 45 PSI, No the plumbing in the RV is rated for over 100 PSI and tested to more than twice that with one exeption that is

The valve on the toilet.. AT LEAST one brand of toilet the valve is only rated for a maximum of 60 PSI.

The solutions is to replace teh pressure regulator. more on that in a bit. But first we come to testing

There are several ways to test. Alas, I do not like most of the pressure gauges sold for this job as they tend to not last long, I have however gotten one to work well for me by replacing with a higher quality gauge

Gauges come in three types.. One comes with a hose female fiting and is designed to simply screw on the end of the regulator or hose. I like to use a "Y" connector with these.. and of course See type 3 later. adjust for 50 psi, make sure it stays there.

Type 2 is a gauge mounted on the side of a brass cylinder, the cylinder is very simular to the standard Water Pressure Regulator (Which by the way is junk) which is a cylinder the size of the hose connectors, with male and female solid connectors on each end. The difference is the cyliner is hollow (They make an adjustable version of this regulator with gauge attached)

The third type of gauge is the one you use to replace the gauges on the above two when they fail, which they will, and soon.

The regulators
I already gave you my opnion of the standard cylinder shaped regulators (JUNK) the high flow versions Not much better, still junk

Sur-Flow in-line or installed is the MINIMUM regulator and then only if it's new, They need to be rebuilt every 5 years or so.

Valterra adujstable.. I have not tested but they get good reviews.

Watts and Zurin adjustable In-line, These are designed (usually) to install in say the cold water line to your water heater at home or some other "in house" spot.. FANTASTIC, however like the sure flow need occasional rebuild, Mine are both 3/4 inch (Cheaper than 1/2 inch) the smallest Watts, (Which by the way comes with a gauge) is not big enough but the next size up (Comes both with and w/) IS.

IF that gauge tops 55 PSI your "Reducer" (Regulator) is a flow restrictor only.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:48 PM   #8
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The restrictor control flow but not pressure....We had a restrictor and replaced it with a Watts regulator with a gauge. Problem solved.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:27 PM   #9
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Ok ya all. I replaced the vacuum breaker on the toilet, we put a new water reducer with adjustment and gauge on . The toilet still is running. Someone mentioned a valve becoming weak. Which valve would that be?
please help or we are just gonna go buy a new toilet.

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