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Old 09-16-2012, 03:14 PM   #1
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Wiring a new rv garage

We have a new garage 24x36 (our only) that houses our rv. Right now it just has power through a simple 20a cord to provide a 8' light etc and keep the motorhome plugged in. Even though our current rv is 30a, I will have the mandatory rv plug wired for 50a,(yes I've read these forums about making sure it's an RV plug) in case we upgrade at a future point. Not like we would run AC or anything big in the garage, but... I would also insist a 240V plug for a welder, or to back feed the house by portable generator and yes I know about a transfer switch or at least dissconnecting the main box from the street. We went through 3 1/2 days a couple years ago with no power except our Beautiful little 120v B&S generator in a big ice storm, but need a way to run the 240V well pump. I feel I can wire lights and outlets, (ex aircraft mech) but don't feel good about the main stuff.
What other things (within reason, we aren't rich) would you think about doing at this point ?
Monkey
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:21 PM   #2
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That sounds like a great plan to me and it sounds like you've done your homework.

I'm jealous.

Rick
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:09 PM   #3
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We had a 26 by 40 carport installed this summer and I wired a standard RV power outlet at the rear of it. The one I used, has 20, 30 and 50AMP receptacles. I bought it at rvparksupplies.com and it's the real thing!

Be sure you have the proper gauge wire feeding it though... Due to already installed underground conduit size restrictions, I had to downgrade the 50AMP breaker to a 40AMP one. The length of my wire run and the size of the conduit, made it necessary to go to the next smaller gauge wire. It could only safely handle a maximum of 40AMPS. I picked up a 40AMP breaker at Lowe's and it went right in the box!
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:00 PM   #4
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I have similar shop, RV, and genny setup. 100 amp subpanel in the detached shop with a 60 amp disconnect breaker. 30 amp RV plug with 50 amp wire for the future. 240 circuit for mig welder. 240 circuit for heater. Back fed genny hookup with main panel main breaker lockout. And several 120 circuits for lighting, tools, outlets.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:01 PM   #5
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wiring rv parking

you never said where your getting your power from. probable your house. now are you going overhead (triplex) or under ground. think of the future. underground diging the trench and laying the conduit is the same labor. even if i couldn't afford the larger wire now install the larger pvc now, you can always pull new wire later. i'd size it for 200 amps. then you can do anything later. remember every 100 ft. of run you have to increase the wire size one size. home depot has a electrican's hand book (quick reference) Ugly's Electrical References === about $10 has conduit, wire sizing, and amperage. all the different plugs and recepticals. wealth of info. replacing a panel is always a pain. go with a larger than you think. i like 200 amp panels or sub panels. then i can put every plug on its own breaker if i want to. if you piggy back ie refrigerator and phone or something else. and they short out it takes out the refrigerator. 200 amp aren't that much. was a electrican for a few years (always wired customers job like it was mine)
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:48 PM   #6
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Thanks so much for the replies !! Our house is only 150A, so I see in the future only needing less than that... I have run my wood working tools, table saw, band saw, etc off of a heavy duty extension cord 20A to a smaller metal building, and DW mentioned to keep that to prevent saw dust in the motorhome.. (hobby is building pet furniture) We will never (I figure ) run the
rv ac hooked up to shore power there, but I'd hate to pay the big bucks only to find we need more some day... Thanks again, just didn't want to overlook something important, Darel
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:56 PM   #7
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Here are some good documents on RV shore power. Wire sizes per length are at the bottom of the Docs.
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=ae67f...2766057%213455

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Old 09-17-2012, 11:41 AM   #8
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I will say this once again NEVER EVER BACK FEED AN ELECTRIC CIRCUIT.

If you use a proper generator transfer system, that is not back feeding, You might call it "Side" feed, but in truth it is normal feeding via an alternate feed.

BUT NEVER EVER BACK FEED AN ELECTRIC CIRCUIT.

That is the way to serious problems.

Beyond that good plan.

Put a second power line and an INLET in the garage as well as the outlet.

The INLET is the feed to the generator transfer panel at the house.

Since you are already digging the trench for the cable, this will only cost wire, not hours of labor.

By the way.. Odds are good the house can survive on 30 amp.. Just so you know, but go ahead and put in 50 amp wireing just cause you have the ditch dug.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
I will say this once again NEVER EVER BACK FEED AN ELECTRIC CIRCUIT.

If you use a proper generator transfer system, that is not back feeding, You might call it "Side" feed, but in truth it is normal feeding via an alternate feed.

BUT NEVER EVER BACK FEED AN ELECTRIC CIRCUIT.

That is the way to serious problems.

Beyond that good plan.

Put a second power line and an INLET in the garage as well as the outlet.

The INLET is the feed to the generator transfer panel at the house.

Since you are already digging the trench for the cable, this will only cost wire, not hours of labor.

By the way.. Odds are good the house can survive on 30 amp.. Just so you know, but go ahead and put in 50 amp wireing just cause you have the ditch dug.
Sorry for the use of wrong wording... It will be done the proper way. I have an electrician coming out today for an estimate. Thanks again for all the info !
Monkey
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