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Old 06-25-2011, 05:30 PM   #1
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1 unhappy camper

I had taken my coach in for new tires a few weeks ago and at the time my choke was stuck or at least that is what I thought, s I had them look at it and apparently a mouse got in there at chewed through the oil sending unit wire, alternator wire and the choke wire. I am gong to write berbaitum what is on my ticket.Checked choke operation does not open, removed the engine cover and breather, checked for power to choke. None. Found a broken wire by the alternator, after repairing still has no power, checked fuses, choke fuse ok. Found the ignotion fuse was open, repaced, after replacing the choke, has power but the choke light is always on. Checked alternator output, 14.07 voltz ok, checked oil pressure switch under coach found both wires for the choke chewed off, repaired wire at alternator, repaired wires at oil pressure switch. rechecked choke, ok. Now the parts. 950 CPS $250.00. Splice kit $11.32. F-fuse kit $3.16.
Now having said all this, when I drove it home I noticed that when I applied the brake, the rightside blinker would light up on the dash and later found applying the brake the front bumper signal lit up. I go to put my new 8D house battery in today and putting the wires that are supposed to go to possative sparks like nobodies buisiness. So now I have no power to the inside of the coach unless I plug it direct to house. They are 85 miles away and I am extremely haced off at this point. They had to rewire something to a ground is all I can think of because I had no problem at all until my old battery finally died. Anyone might have a clue as to where I might start to look as where this issue can be solved?
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:43 PM   #2
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I don't know where you took it but I wouldn't take it back there. The type of problems your having a good auto mechanic should be able to fix. If you have a good local mechanic give him a call and explain the problem. It would seem that if you just retraced what the other mechanic did you will find the problem since he cause it. Good luck!
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:49 PM   #3
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The irony is I took it to a Chevy dealer beings it is a Chevy chassis and motor as well as the fact they do work on GM motorhomes.
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:44 PM   #4
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The only thing common to the front turn signals and rear is either the turn signal switch or flasher. Your coach has one flasher for the turn signals and another for the 4 ways. I would start by removing the 4 way flasher and stepping on the brake to compare results.
You never mentioned if your L & R Turn signals as well as 4 ways are working properly.
If your coach has turn signals/brake lights that are independant of each other but joined together for the trailer connection that may be another source of problems.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:20 PM   #5
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It's Mr. good WRENCH not good wiring.
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:13 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by bigskymt View Post
The only thing common to the front turn signals and rear is either the turn signal switch or flasher. Your coach has one flasher for the turn signals and another for the 4 ways. I would start by removing the 4 way flasher and stepping on the brake to compare results.
You never mentioned if your L & R Turn signals as well as 4 ways are working properly.
If your coach has turn signals/brake lights that are independant of each other but joined together for the trailer connection that may be another source of problems.
Turn signals work correctly, other lights work correctly. Just as I had stated, apply brakes then Right turn signals lights up on both the dash and the front bumper, if making turns both work independant of each other. The reason Iam having issue with them re-wiring it incorrectly is that if that was done the alternator would not be charging, the oil sending unit would not be working correctly nor the choke. This is what has me bum fuzzled. Supposedly that is the only wiring they did. Its beyond me what could of happened.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:11 AM   #7
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I am thinking you have more mice chewed wires that you haven't found. These wires could be now grounding some where on your frame causing your signal lights to come on and your positive cables to spark
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:37 AM   #8
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I used to have a very good Service Consultant at the Chevy Dealer I used to go to, He knew his business when it came to cars but was a bit.. er.. rough when it came to people, Now he and I got along great because I respected his knowledge of the car way more than I was annoyed by his personality.. They let him go.. (His son still works there though, He is a technician, They have a few good ones there, and a few not so good)

Well...... When mice naw on the wires,, It can take a while to figure out all the wires nawed.. Though that turn signal issue sounds like it's under the dash, not under the hood/frame. (turn signal switch is my first guess, most likely bolted to the sterring column)

Now, on to the parts prices... OUCH. over 3bucks for a fuse is robbery (a buck at the most)

But then I have my own Dealer stories I tell... Some make yours look tame.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:39 AM   #9
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It sounds like it's grounding back through the right side turn signal wiring. I'd start by checking to see that everything is properly grounded.
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:44 AM   #10
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Well I have checked as much of the wiring as I can see and it all looks good to me, of course I am no mechanic but it certainly isn't correct somewhere. I am going to call the dealership monday and see if I can talk to the guy who worked on it and see if he noticed anything and to give him a small piece of my mind.
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Old 06-26-2011, 02:12 PM   #11
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While the Alternator, choke, and oil sender use the same wiring harness and body plug, the turn/tail lights use a seperate wiring harness and body plug. I suspect you simply have a new problem. The symptoms point to the turn signal switch itself or another mouse related issue. The white wire from the brake switch is connecting to the Dark Blue front right turn wire from the front right turn or one of the rear turn wires (left = yellow; right = dk green) is connecting to the Dark Blue front right turn wire.

The first thing you have to ask regarding the 8D battery install is are there any ghost circuits hooked up? [fridge (modern control board), Furnace Thermostat, Converter (trying to charge the battery), inverter, lights on, etc.]

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Old 06-26-2011, 02:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by vman60 View Post
Well I have checked as much of the wiring as I can see and it all looks good to me, of course I am no mechanic but it certainly isn't correct somewhere. I am going to call the dealership monday and see if I can talk to the guy who worked on it and see if he noticed anything and to give him a small piece of my mind.
Before you do that and wind up with egg on your face I'd check under the coach at the hitch wires. The wires are probably chewed up there too or somewhere under the coach in the wiring harness which feeds the rear lights. You have a brake wire touching the turn wire and maybe one or both are stripped and touching a ground and maybe not at the same spot. I'm almost sure it wasn't what the dealer did.

My wife's jag. wouldn't start. $2100 later a complete wiring harness plus all kinds of other trunk wires had to be replaced because the mice ate them.... been there, done that.
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Old 06-26-2011, 02:25 PM   #13
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nly thing I can say is when I plug into the house with the main cord, all appliance's work. The retractable steps do not and I also noticed the sterio on the dash will now only work with the key on in the ignition. Before all I had to do was turn on the dash sterio without the key and it worked. The control panel on the dash telling me if anything is full or empty does not work. At this point it is all know. Pryor to them working on it, everything worked fine.
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Old 06-26-2011, 03:42 PM   #14
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Good luck. Electrical problems are hard to fix and expensive because of all the time needed to trace wires and correct them. I would call the dealer back tomorrow and be nice and tell them what is happening and see what they have to say. Maybe, just maybe they connected a wrong wire somewhere that affects all of that but it's not likely because you are looking at a few different circuits that have nothing to do with each other. Make sure to take your owners manual with the wiring diagrams so they don't waste a lot of time.

P.S. edit: The 3 that have the same circuit are the steps, stereo and gauges so maybe they disconnected the hot wire from that circuit when repairing the other stuff or used it to power another circuit?
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