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Old 09-16-2014, 07:47 PM   #15
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wow, i just found a 76 that looks alot like yous on cl. im thinking very seriously about going and checking it out,,,maybe in the morning..its close to the house and im my price range...pix look very very good,,,but i know all to well about cl pix....lol
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:15 PM   #16
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Many RV's of that vintage had only one tank for black and grey water. Usually somewhere between 25 to 35 gallons. One way to check is to look at your gate valve. If you have separate tanks you should have two pipes to the gate valve, one a 3" pipe (black tank) the other a 1 1/2" pipe (grey tank). Our 1970 model Class C on a Ford chassis only had one tank for both.
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:41 PM   #17
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Bubba,

It looks like I might have 2, then. The black water tank is right under the toilet and has a 3" pipe going to the gate valve. After the gate valve, there is another pipe coming down. That is the drain from the grey water (sinks, shower), so I'm sure they don't use the same tank. I'll have to investigate further.

Thanks for the help, though!
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:25 PM   #18
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You probably only have 2 tanks. One for fresh clean water for shower/sink/toilet, and the other tank for black/gray water to keep down excessive weights and space availabilities.

For the fresh water intake fill, you'll also need a Garden Hose Water Pressure Regulator. It's just a simple brass coupling that's regulated for around 7# for garden hose end that goes into the camper water tank. It keeps water pressures from blowing the tank seals/tank. You can find them at WalMart for less than $15.

If you also don't have one already, you'll need the waste gate flex piping for the dump tank. Again find at WalMart in the camper supply area.
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:30 PM   #19
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Okay, here's another chassis question. It looks like this b300 came with the dealer installed a/c where they basically rip a hole in the dash and put this hideous thing in it. I've been doing some research on the mopar forums and I think I'm just going to rip it out. I'll fill the whole with a radio or just weld in a panel or something, but this a/c has to go. It basically just hanging through this hole. Also, the condensor must have blocked the original spot for the oil dipstick, so I have this long rubber tube with a dipstick that appears to be made out of a spring. It has no markings on it, so I have no idea what level the oil is at.

Here's a picture of A/C fan unit. The fans and controls are all self contained in this unit.



Anyway, it looks like the belt to drive the compressor is only used for the compressor. It wraps around an idler pulley and then around a driven pulley at the bottom of the motor. Is there any problem thinking I can pull out the compressor, fan and hoses without any consequences? I'll plug up the condensor until I pull of the grill and remove it. Anything else I should worry about?

I've got my oil change stuff, so that will be done tomorrow.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:53 AM   #20
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Yes, that was one of the aftermarket , A/C units, just plain ugly.

Use caution; if there is any pressure left in the system, have it evacuated, before you start removal.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:38 PM   #21
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I Can't add much but I had 1973 Dodge "Fireball" Class C. Great rig and used it summer and winter (skiing). Had the 360 and I added headers, CB radio, etc.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:58 PM   #22
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Had one of those aftermarket A/Cs in an old Ford F150 I owned. That thing would freeze you out if you let it.

No other A/C in the cab you might want to consider saving it. Not sure if it can be repaired and recharged cause I'm sure it's R12, but if you got it workin' you will be cool in the hot weather. JMHO
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Old 09-18-2014, 03:37 PM   #23
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Thanks guys. DieselTech, to be honest, we're not going to do much driving in this thing. We're just planning on boondocking while we both work and save up for a trip. It will pretty much just be moved from within the city and hopefully we can find a spot that it won't have to be moved very often. I'm working on getting the A/C in the house working, so we'll rely on that for cooling. Luckily we're at the tail-end of summer here. We will be moving into it around Oct 15, so it should be pretty cool by then.

It's just plain ugly and hanging there. It's not even screwed in to the dash. I'd rather block out the hole and fab up something to hold an iphone or ipad. Then I can run an aux jack to an amp and use that as music / gps.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:03 PM   #24
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Alright, that piece a **** a/c is all out now. One bolt really gave me hell, but man is it nice to have that thing out. It sure gives you a lot more room around that motor. My next step is the dipstick. I got a new one, but the existing one is a bit of a puzzle. It was routed around the a/c compressor pump and the dipstick was basically made from this spring material. It didn't have any markings on it, so I have no idea what is the right level. My question is how is the dipstick tube attached to the block? Does it just press in? Here are a few pictures. The last one is the new dipstick tube.

Thanks guys! Also, if anyone wants a functioning aftermarket a/c unit, I'd let this one go for $50. The compressor pump clutch definitely works and all of the controls and fan on the head unit work. It had freon in it, but it was definitely low. Anyway, selling as is and I can ship it to you at your cost (It's a heavy sunofabitch).


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Old 09-18-2014, 11:15 PM   #25
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For the Mopar brand of engines, the dipstick tube is "PRESSED" into the block, and some also have a welded on tab near top to be attached at a bolt point for solid attachment.

Be careful and do not break off that oil tube. If you snap tube off at block(which is always where they break), you'll need to remove oil pan and punch out the tube metal left in block. I've had to repair some friends engines back in 70's that did this and it's no fun. Very seldom was I able to have enough metal on top to get to and pull out. In Military you did what you had to---as cheap as you had to. If you didn't have skinned knuckles/blood, you didn't do the job correct.

For the Oil Dip Stick Measurement of Oil:

You will need to drain out all oil and R&R filter and refill with 5qts fresh oil. Run for 30 seconds to circulate oil and shut off. If you have an "Oil Cooler" on this motor, you'll need 6qts. Let oil drain down from heads overnite. Now withdraw dipstick and take a hacksaw blade and saw into the metal a mark where the oil is at the upper most point. Drive for a week(if positive you don't have any serious oil leaks) and keep checking the oil mark on dipstick. When you get to around 1000 miles do an evaluation of oil on dipstick. If down 1/8" wait and recheck at 1500 miles. Do this until you reach around 3/8" and put in some oil. Is there some left? This will tell you how many miles you need to go to "Add a Quart" of oil. This is where you will "saw in" a 2nd mark on dipstick once you reach the point you add a "full quart" of oil. You now have a fully functioning dipstick that tells you your safe points of engine oil.

Looking at the engine pic you have, honestly I see nothing wrong with what you have. Yes the tube/dipstick are long, but if they work, you're ahead of game. The stick is a springy steel material and are made quite well for bending/turning where it needs to go.
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:35 PM   #26
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Jayco, thanks for that writeup, it's really helpful. I'll do that tomorrow when I change the oil. Where would the "oil cooler" be if I had one?

Thanks again!
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:55 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sktyrhrtout View Post
Jayco, thanks for that writeup, it's really helpful. I'll do that tomorrow when I change the oil. Where would the "oil cooler" be if I had one?

Thanks again!
You'll see 2 (hi-pressure rubber or metal lines) coming from "oil filter mount stand" and those lines run to what looks like a small radiator at front of the engine's cooling radiator. You can't miss it.

You show pictures of the oil filter and it's mount point, and we'll give definite answer if you have oil cooling lines.
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Old 09-20-2014, 07:17 PM   #28
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Okay, so today I got the oil changed, spark plug wires changed, new distributor cap, and new rotor. Oil pressure is back up around 50-55 psi while driving. It was definitely low on oil. I've marked that dipstick and we should be good to go. The spark plugs looked brand new, so I decided against changing them. Although, they were platinum and the manual suggests copper. I have a set of coppers, but I'll just throw them in the back for next time. Do you guys think platinum is okay on this old motor?

We also emptied the black tank. It definitely only has one tank. I'm guessing the gray water either goes straight down on the other side of the waste valve (if we were hooked up at a site) or it goes in to the black tank (if the cap is on and it fills up the down spout).

In regards to the black tank. I was filling it with water this week to try and clean it out and I noticed once it was about 3/4 full there was a small dribble leak. Here's what I found:




It looks like the two hanging hooks have worked their way into the tank. Is this leak fixable? If I dropped the tank and epoxied and then put something to insulate in between the tank and the hook would it hold?

After pulling out the A/C compressor, I noticed this hose running from the water pump to the engine block. It was really long and routed around that compressor. There wouldn't be a problem shortening that up, right? It's the hose to the left of the large bypass hose. It connects to the block to the left of the thermostat:



The last thing is something simple, but I'm only 25 and I've never seen windshield wipers like these. How the hell do I get them off?



Thanks a bunch for your help guys, I feel like I'm really making progress here!
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