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Old 05-11-2014, 02:24 AM   #29
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Grounded the light blue wire tonight and it actually made the needle move. I held it for about 5 minutes and it only got up to 1/4 tank reading. What do you think it could be? Should I wait longer or could it be the gauge? Also, all the wires that power the tail lights actually have power and work as they are suppose to with a test light probe at the cab. Under the sink I cannot get the same thing. I am wondering if those wires as damaged or just not the right ones even though they have the same coloring as the ones in the can minus the yellow with black stripe. I think I will have to just rewire the tail lights. Tap off of them from the cab and run them under the frame towards the back.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:35 AM   #30
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Quote:
Grounded the light blue wire tonight and it actually made the needle move. I held it for about 5 minutes and it only got up to 1/4 tank reading. What do you think it could be? Should I wait longer or could it be the gauge?
As far as what the issue is, only thing I can offer is this description about how it works - Vintage Chrysler electrical repairs and updates (part 2)

Quote:
I am wondering if those wires as damaged or just not the right ones even though they have the same coloring as the ones in the can minus the yellow with black stripe.
Sometimes you can follow the wires and repair the problem. Other times you have no choice but to replace the wiring with new.

Dave
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:16 PM   #31
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check the back of the guage to make sure the 2 nuts are tighted securely to the back of the ciurcit board.

and just to ask the question, are you sure it has more gas in it then the guage is reading. with new float, now wires mine is till about quarter tank off after I got my working, which I believe to be in the unit itself. at least for now I know

Also I know others have said this but those Haynes and chilten books can help a ton. they can be quicker then running inside sitting down at the computer and typing everything in for the issue and waiting for a response for an issue that sometimes can be solved with that book

don't take that the wrong way, here to help, just offering my .02 cents worth, after owning my 76 dodge for 8 years

Mick
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:37 PM   #32
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Dave79chief and chicnnhead thank you so much for the help. I took the blue wire and cut it back about 6" and grounded it out to the frame and got the needle to rise just over 3/4 of a tank. I tapped into the harness behind the drivers seat and ran new wiring under the motor home. I now have new wiring all the way to the back. All I have to do is wire everything back up. I will have to have the wires run on the outside of the RV because I have no time to pull at the sheet metal of and the wood under there is sketchy. I should have new tail lights and hopefully new trailer lights all hooked up by tomorrow night. Thanks
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:52 PM   #33
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Dave in your diagram the wire wire that went to the dome lights in the interior is that a ground wire and the pink the power? Thanks
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:58 PM   #34
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18 gauge pink wire (Circuit F49B) goes to the fuse box (#7). That fuse supplies Brake light switch, Dome lights, Oil light (or gauge) power, and power to the voltage limiter (mounted to instrument panel; provides power to gas gauge).

The 18 gauge white wire (Circuit DC6) is a ground path that goes to the headlight switch. Grounded via headlight switch connector.

Dave

PS: Just remember I am getting this from a 79 chassis manual so something may be different on your 75 chassis.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:37 PM   #35
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1975 tioga

Ok I have everything hooked up and it works as advertised. Now when I turn the headlight switch on nothing. I was getting a clicking noise and nothing. This is the part I removed from the back of the dash making the noise. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:31 PM   #36
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been a few years since I have been behind the dash, so that one is not ringing a bell
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:19 PM   #37
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1975 tioga

Ok, here's what I have done. I found out that the item pictureds in the above post was the headlight relay. I bought a 40A relay and wired it in as follows:
Green wire from dash 12V to the relay number 30
Wired-in a ground to 86 from the back of the dash where the old relay mounted
Power out to the tail lights came out from pin 87 to the brown wire
Power/switch from light switch (Red) into 85
Walla there is power to the lights!!!

Now to change the oil in engine and transmission and time to hit the road for memorial day weekend
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:37 PM   #38
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1975 Tioga

Well after all the hard work and getting the beast running right I was forced to sell her the other day. I found out from the vehicle processing center in Los Angeles that they would not ship my RV for me to Alaska where I am moving to here in the next month because of the military. I regretfully sold it but enjoyed if the short few weeks that I owned it. I am glad someone will get to enjoy the fruits of my labor. Hopefully I can find one nearly as decent as the one I had up there. Wish me luck and thanks for all the help.

Isaias
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:34 PM   #39
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Well Isaias, you get to take your new knowledge with you!
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:59 PM   #40
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True Statement wblynch. I am already looking for a new RV or new one for us when we get the Alaska. Thanks everyone.
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:19 PM   #41
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You'll be back soon enough!

Had to chime in, your interior layout is identical to our 79 Shasta! Weird.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:07 PM   #42
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Sweet rig!
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