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Old 04-02-2014, 10:41 AM   #1
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1975 Dodge Tioga

Hello,

I am new to this forum as well as new to the rv'ing experience. I am hoping to get some insight and helpful information from you guys here. I just bought a 1975 Tioga VIN F34BF5V000931. I need a wiring diagram as none of my indicators work. No temp, oil, I do have Alternator but it varies significantly. I would guess that it varies because the battery terminal us loose on the positive side. I'd like to know what others have done to get this beast running strong. I am going to rebuild the carburator and install an electronic ignition, what can you guys tell me about this RV and also a good site to buy some parts. Update on the RV as I posted this on the Class C RV forum before. I rebuilt the carburator over the weekend and starts right up and has plenty of umf now. I only had to adjust the Idle screw in a bit and she idles fine. Also, no more issue on the alternator reading on the gauge. Replace the terminals and it charger at 14.10-14.30 and battery reads 12.3 when ignition off. Lastly, I need to get everything in the RV working properly so maybe someone can help me out with the fridge. It has a Hadco gaselectric fridge but doesn't seem to be working. I plugged in the rv to the house and have power. I switched it to 110V and have power to outlet and power to the block. I also can hear the fuild in the firdge moving aroung and the coils on the back are warm but the inside of the fridge is not cold at all. Any help would be appreciated. Also, my propane tank reads 3/4 full but I pulled the gauge off as it just sits on top of a divit on the tank. I don't hear gas coming from any line so I am assuming it is empty. Can I replace it with something better or is this just a waste of time and money and should just get a new gauge and fill it up? P.S. where is the other fuse box. I foung one under the steering column but only has about 6 fuses. I am sure there is another one with more fuses elsewhere. Thanks..
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:32 PM   #2
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Welcome to the RVing lifestyle. You have certainly got a project on your hands. I will tell you that the refrigerator takes a minimum of 24 hours to cool off. The fact that you hear the fluids working in it are a good sign, I think.

I can't help with those other questions you have, except that I would be willing to bet there are at least one more fuse panel(s) on your rig.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:46 PM   #3
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On your refrigerator there is no compressor or pump like your house's. RV propane/electric refrigerator uses ammonia and water heated by a small flame or electrical element.Most of the cooling is in the freezer and it will not cool as fast as your home unit. Look for a little frost to form on the fins inside.
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:52 AM   #4
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I've had the fridge running for three days now and can't tell if it's cold at all. I still hear the fuild moving around and sounds like it's boiling because of the bubbling sound but not cold. Any suggestions on where I can get a good used RV fridge in Southern CA. Thanks
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:27 AM   #5
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HI,
1) Given that the "F" code was for a Chrysler Cordoba, I am fairly sure your VIN code is B34BF5V000931 not F34BF5V000931. "B" is for the Dodge van chassis. Go here Dodge Truck Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Decoder to decode the VIN.

2) For your 75 chassis, you will need both the 74 Service manual and 75 Supplement for the Dodge Van Chassis. (75,1975) Dodge van service Manual | eBay. Do not confuse the Dodge "B" series van chassis for Class C rigs that you have (B-300) with the Dodge "M" series Motorhome chassis for Class A rigs. They a 2 completely different chassis'. Unless you just have to have paper, the combined CD version is the best deal.

3) House portion of the rig - I doubt you will find Tioga specific information. If you are new to RV's it is best best to get a book that explains basic RV systems. Each component (fridge, converter, LPG Regulator, Stove, Furnace, Water Heater, etc.) is supported by manuals produce by the original manufacturer of the device.

Dave
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #6
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1975 tioga

Thanks for the info. The title states F34BF5V000931 when I decoded the vin I came up with B300 too.l question just had the rv plugged in for last week and noticed that the cab battery was sitting at 16.8 volts and had a small leak. Turned off the main breaker to the power panel. Any ideas on why the inventor would over charge the battery like that. Also, still no luck on finding that second fuse box any suggestions? Thanks
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaias_1 View Post
l question just had the rv plugged in for last week and noticed that the cab battery was sitting at 16.8 volts and had a small leak. Turned off the main breaker to the power panel. Any ideas on why the inventor would over charge the battery like that. Also, still no luck on finding that second fuse box any suggestions? Thanks
My '76 Winnebago Mini Winnie had 2 batteries, one for the engine and one for the coach. The coach battery is intended to be a deep cycle/RV battery, with a standard starting battery for the engine. It is possible that you may not have a coach battery. Look under the dinette, outside of the RV. That is where Winnebago put the coach battery in my '76. Also, there maybe a switch on the dash that links the 2 batteries. Make sure it is off, and there is a coach battery, then retest.

The 2nd fuse panel can be located almost anywhere inside the coach. My Mini Winnie had it located under the stove, at floor level. My Chinook had it in a cabinet, between the stove and sink. I'd just open ALL cabinets, doors and look into the 'hidden' nooks for the fuse panel and the 110V breaker panel.

Best part about owning a 'vintage' RV is being able to work on it yourself, if you choose. Nice looking rig, I must say.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:07 PM   #8
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Do you by chance have a PD-699 Converter?



If so then the CBs on the right side replace the fuse panel. This stylle of converter was used in the early 70's.

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Old 04-08-2014, 11:43 AM   #9
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I will get a picture of the converter and CB panel later I am at work. I will also get a picture of the battery. It looks like a regular car batery in the coach and a car battery in the van portion. What would cause the converter to put out so much voltage though?
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:00 PM   #10
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1975 Tioga

here are the pictures of the breaker box and convertor. Thanks for any info.
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:12 PM   #11
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Based on this document for a DCV 30 version (http://www.sandridgeairpark.com/Silv...-30F_Specs.pdf) of a Newmark Converter, the front will hinge open and the elusive coach fuses will be inside. Thats a real small converter (15 amps) so there will not be many. This sort of setup was typical in early to mid 70's.

Here is some info about Ferroresonant converters. The RV Doctor: AC to DC Converter Types for RVs

As far as the 16.5VDC output, either there is a problem with the converter or there is a short in the battery. Many of these style converters need a battery connected to act as a "filter" for proper operation. At that high a voltage, the "leak" was most likely do to the battery boiling over. Converter output should not really go above 14.5VDC at most and would more likely be in the 13.2 to 13.6VDC range.

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Old 04-15-2014, 12:39 PM   #12
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1975 Tioga

Here are the pictures of the Placard attached to the RV maybe you can help me ID it. I know everyone keeps saying it's a truck but I think it is based on a Van Chassis. Thanks
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:38 AM   #13
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I finally got some answers. I got the VIN decifered at http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/Pag...oder.html#1978
and it seems everything is correct and it is based on the MB300 Chassis. Thanks everyone.
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:00 PM   #14
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Can anyone help with an electrical diagram of the engine/chassis wiring. I need to know what my wires are for horns, wires for my enginge temp sensor and most importanly my fuel tank sending wire from the harness to the sending unit. Last owner disconnected it to reseal the tank and didn't hook it back up. The tank seems to be good but no fuel level readings. Thanks in advance.
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