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Old 07-13-2013, 06:51 PM   #15
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Best of luck getting it going. When you do - enjoy!
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:58 PM   #16
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Thanks. Yes and I've also learned today the carb my be a great part of the problem. .My friend found a carb shop specialist for me.I'ts not far from me. I'm sure I can drive it right over before it stalls. This guy knows his stuff I am told. So we shall see.
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:24 PM   #17
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Ballast resistor, Electronic Control Module (ECM), and Voltage Regulator are all mounted to a plate on the rear of the engine above the bell housing.

Possible problems:
Ballast Resistor
ECM (can exhibit heat related problems)
Coil
Distributor Vacuum control (does not engage until after temp sensor valve on intake reaches operating temp). Valve bad or distributor diaphram has cracked with age.
Rotted rubber fuel lines allowing the fuel pump to suck air rather than gas (Vapor lock like symptom). At both tanks, selector valve (most likely passenger frame rail outboard muffler), fuel pump inlet
Plastic float in Thermoquad carb getting old resulting in flooded condition
Carb needs to be rebuilt
Fuel pump wearing out
EGR valve sticking open
Gas cap vent(s) plugged up (fuel pump drawing a vacuum on tank)

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Old 07-15-2013, 05:20 PM   #18
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Thanks Dave78Chief. Lots of possibilities. The coil and fuel filter are now changed.I saw the ECM on the firewall.But have yet to find Ballast Resistor.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:24 PM   #19
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While this reflects a 413/440, the 360 is the same.



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Old 07-15-2013, 07:36 PM   #20
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Thanks for the diagram Dave78Chief. We shall have a look when I'm not working.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #21
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Well , I had a mechanic look at this today. Says carb looks okay, getting gas into jets .Looked at distributor and cap,can't see anything bad. So we both found the resistor, on the firewall.Changed it and still same thing happens.So he says the only thing electronic left to really try is the ecm module. Other than that fuel pump , and the other things on the list.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:24 PM   #22
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So,now it runs very smooth and forever.Does not stall at all. It was indeed the electronic ignition control module. Now on to fixing the cruise control.Thanks everyone for your input on this.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:29 AM   #23
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Very glad you got him going !!! Ya, I have to work on my cruise control also.....
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:29 PM   #24
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Alternator

Does anyone know a way to check if my rv house battery gets charged, by alternator while driving? I know it does when plugging into 110vac. There must be something to look for on this peticular dodge camper. thanks
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:57 PM   #25
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According to the electrical section (page 15A) of your owners manual (http://coachmenrv.com/downloads/defa...s/13998490.pdf) you do have a aux battery solenoid operated off of the ignition switch.

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Old 08-19-2013, 07:50 PM   #26
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I was searching for manuals on my dodge for a while. So this manual covers the class A and C Georgieboys? My Georgieboy is the C class . So does this solenoid switch to alternator power when the engine starts up? I am still learning about how this rv works. Thanks very much ,Dave78Chief
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
So this manual covers the class A and C Georgieboys?
If you look at it you can see it does.

Quote:
So does this solenoid switch to alternator power when the engine starts up?
Diagram on page 15B indicates the solenoid is controlled by the ignition circuit so I assume it is supposed to.

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Old 08-23-2013, 03:15 PM   #28
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I owned a few 70's Tradesman Vans (Boogie Van any one) and ALWAYS carries a spare ballast resistor. The problem was engine would turn over and start but not run. Not your problem I know just a little fyi.
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