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Old 02-07-2008, 04:28 PM   #15
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Hello fellow 1977 Holiday Rambler owner, T27 class C to be exact (well almost - in my case it's now my brother's, but it's been in the family since new).

On the converter. You'll find that Progressive Dynamics still exists. They have a website that has some good troubleshooting info. When mine stopped charging the batteries (yes, it should on shore power or generator) I followed their guides and found some loose solder joints. Touched them up and good as new.

And I suspect you'd lose your bet on MPG. Ours, even though a Ford and a class C never saw more than 8. Even back in the 55 MPH speed limit days. We added an overdrive about the same time that went away, gas mileage still hovered in the low 7's. 5 or 6 was possible too pushing it a bit hard. I'm guessing you'll be in about the same boat.
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:22 PM   #16
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I too like to older stuff. It brings back a lot of memories. The pre-Monaco HR's were of exceptional quality. Sadly, not the same any more. We had one of the last ones, a '97 Vacationer. It was an exceptionally well built unit. My Dad's '02 is just not the same....SIGH....
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:12 AM   #17
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Been so busy I'd forgotten to write. I recently(march) took a 500 mile trip and got 8.4 mpg. Going to take a trip this weekend and will check it again. Still loving it. Hoping by the first of the year to be making improvements here and there, but i'm not holding my breath. I've been blown around so much recently that I figured I might as well take an actual trip so the scenery changes. Anyone else enjoying these 40 mph winds?
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:58 AM   #18
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Sounds great. Our Rambler has a tag axle, that does seem to keep the mileage down a bit. It's like towing a trailer all the time.
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Old 10-24-2008, 03:55 AM   #19
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I probably missed this discussion, but do any of you have the older, larger connection at the RV side where the bayonet fittings are supposed to attach? My 77 happens to have one that is larger than all the newer connections. If you do have these how have you gone about fixing them? I've been to camping world and measured every fitting they have and it does not fit properly. Currently I've a plastic 90 inserted inside and a rubber boot surrounding mine, and it's clamped with ss screw clamps. Works very well, and I trust it.

I'm thinking about making a short adapter that will connect my old RV to the new rhino fittings(since that's the hose I currently use). to make it more of a quick setup(30 seconds as opposed to 2-3 minutes) and just save the hassle of a screwdriver being needed at all.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:28 AM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">bayonet fittings </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If this is a sewer connection, some of the older units (like mine) used Thetford brand connectors which do not connect well with the more common fittings.
You might look specifically for this brand connector.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:58 AM   #21
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Yes the sewer connection, Sorry I'd not made that clear enough. I'll check into the Thetford information and see what I can come up with, If not, think you'd be interested in a short adapter to change to a new rhino style fitting? Or anyone else you know.

Don't know if i'll bother making one myself or not, but if I do I'm sure I could do several as easy as one.

Edit: and thanks for telling me it was a Thetford connection. That definitely makes searching easier. I've found a few links where it's been discussed before and will be able to better research it this weekend.

Wou don't happen to have the instructions for the fresh water system handy do ya?
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:51 PM   #22
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I do not but from my last 3 older MH's ('75, '76 and '80), I can relay this tidbit.

1. These (mine) all had a separate water connection with a built in regulator for the "city" water connection that pressurizes your system without filling your tank or requiring you to use your 12V pump.

2. There was a fitting for "filling" the fresh water tank only. This was under a separate cover/door etc. from the "city water" connection and both are "usually" labeled as such.

3. I always added a larger (3/4"-1" dia.) drain pipe to the fresh water tank drain to help "dump" the tank. I also added stainless ball valves for the water drain and fill circuits which aided in isolating a full tank if I had to replace the 12V pump. I also always replaced the pumps with a Sureflo Whisper King pump. They are only about $75, have decent flow and are almost silent to the point of barley being perceptible.

If there is anything else you need to know, post some pics.
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:15 AM   #23
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Thanks, and yes, the city water and fresh fill are behind two separate doors. I get that far, just haven't bothered filling it up to give her a go yet. I've three or four copper tubes with cutoffs on each in the inside, just never bothered tracing where each goes. More interested in the whole drain/working side, more than the fill end. I'll do my best to remember to get some pics so that you can figure out what i'm talking about. I believe it's a new 12v pump, though don't recall the brand.
Actually, now that you mention it I've been a bit remiss of my duties as of late with getting some picture of my beauty, or the last camping trip we've been on. I'll try to do that soon.
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:02 AM   #24
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Keep your head up. It can be daunting at times but well worth it in the end...as anything done with hard work is.

One other note. When you begin to look at the City Water side, make sure that the outside fitting (the one that usually has the built-in regulator) has a very good seal "inside" the outer coach wall. They tend to work loose and will fill your rig up FAST.

Experience speaking here...
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:36 AM   #25
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Father in law just bought a used 1986 Holiday Rambler Imperial 33ft and is having electrical issues...anyone know how or where we might find a manual or some sort of schematics? Any help would be greatly appreciated as things are a lil HOT. Thanks in advance and God Bless
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:48 AM   #26
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Mileage? Hasn't even been a concern yet. Next time I get up the nerve to fill up the tank I'll track it and see. If I were a betting man I'd say 8-9 mpg. 10 would be great and an easy way to calculate trips to boot .

Cleaning contacts. I have acess to quite a few acids here. Including muriatic and phosphoric(which is great for cleaning up rust). I'll give that a shot and see how it goes. Might only be designed to change from the genny or the alternator. Not sure what they had in mind back in the 70's. Need to buy a decent voltmeter to check it out better. Probably do that this weekend.
Did get a call yesterday that my tank was ready. $48 for new valves and bleeder. Can't beat that with a stick. I'll be glad to put that back in and save the hassle of the 20#'s I'm switching back and fourth on now. it's a 15 gallon tank so It will fill up for $34.35 as opposed to the same amount in the 20# for $44.58. And not having to change the tanks out 3 times in the same span. I'll try to remember to take the camera with me tonight and take a few pictures before installing it again.
Ahhhh the gas prices of 2008! I could have filled my 75 gallon tank for about $115.00. Now it costs nearly $300.00!!

How is the rig doing now nearly 3 years later?
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