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Old 12-04-2009, 08:41 PM   #15
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WHEN YOU GLUE AND SCREW YOU WON'T HAVE THE SQUEAKS AND RATTLES A LOT OF OLD R.V.s HAVE. ALSO SOMETIMES YOU CAN USE THE EPOXY IN AREA YOU CAN'T FIT A SCREW GUN. THE FANCY ELECTRONICS ARE NICE, BUT IF YOU HAVE A ON THE ROAD PROBLEM IT WILL COST DEARLY TO REPAIR. HEADS FOR OLD CHEVYS ARE CHEAP AND YOU WON'T HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE. CARRY AN EXTRA IGNITION ROTOR AND HEI MODULE, THAT'S WHAT'S MOST LIKELY TO FAIL. IF YOU GO THE NEW TECH ROUTE DON'T FORGET THE INTANK FUEL PUMP, YOU NEED THE PRESSURE FOR THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM. MEASURE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF SUB TIRES AND COMPARE THE MEASUREMENT TO YOUR RIG. SOMETIMES TIRE SIZE CAN UPSET THE ELECTRONIC TRANSMISSIONS OPERATION.
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Old 12-05-2009, 01:00 AM   #16
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screw & glue i like it. used to do that all the time with subfloors. never even considered it on a MH . do you think that going with the electronic route that there would be a big difference in gas mileage?
thanks for the good tips!
JT
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:44 AM   #17
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You will get better mileage if you get it all to work right. But better than what. You're not up yet, so you have no baseline figures. My '88 34 ft'er gets 7.5, 454 chevy/400 trans. Motorhome mag tested a 2005 8.1 chevy, 36 ft , 7.6 mpg., also tested a 2006 6.8 v-10, 7.96 mpg. With a good tune, carb work and you will match that or a little better. These things are bricks, some folks claim 10 mpg on gas, hmmm.... The only mh i,ve had that got 10 was a class b, 1979 22 ft transvan. I then went to a brand new holley carb and picked up a true 1 mpg, no extra tuning. Keep it simple that's what makes these old babies the gems they are. My old '76 did'nt wear out we just needed a larger coach, 4 grandkids. Sold it to a friend and he goes to mexico all the time with it, 400 miles round trip.
I did many 1000 mile round trips, no problems. Don't forget to camp at home first, you don't want to spend your first time out fixing water heaters, house water pump, heater, fridge, lighting, etc., etc. Don't get soaked on the transmission, it's just a 400 turbo, not rocket science. R&r it yourself and have a shop build it. I saw on this site where someone spent $2200 on a mid 70's gm trans job, ouch!!!!! 22 could take care of everything. Have you ever dropped a transmission?
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:26 PM   #18
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i see what you mean. i'll keep it the way it is, get another head if neccessary. as far as tranny's go i r&r more manual trannys then automatic. i had a 71 chevelle ss that the po replaced the m-22 with a sagnore . now the sagnore wasn't a bad tranny till the first time i blew it up. but i changed more clutches in that then trannys. i have r&r a few automatics mostly turbo 350 i think. i definitely see the home camping thing first. i will also drive it around town for a while before taking any 3 hr rides. are 400 trans good for towing? i have a 16' (deck) car trailer that i transport my buggies on. i'm thinking approx. 2000 lbs. 425 each for buggies maybe 9-1100 on the trailer. any idea how much to rebuild the 400 trans if i drop it? thanks again for your input.
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:32 PM   #19
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The 400 is the best trans for towing, the mh trns has more clutches in every drum. You will more than likely have a forward clutch problem (seals or worn out clutches). In my area i can pick up a rebuilt one for about $350-400. I rebuild my own, parts cost me no more than $150. I've been going to the same parts guy for more than 30 yrs. So i get a lot of discounts. The th350 and th400 are similar,
so the r&r won't be a problem for you. The 400 is ez'er due to no kickdown cable, passing gear is electric, unplug one wire thats it.
Plenty of room to work at the housing bolts also. Be sure to flush both the trans coolers, as you know metal shavings left behind will ruin your new trans. They now have trans flush in a can for the do it yourselfer. Flush cooling lines also. Have the t/c cleaned or get a rebuilt one, in my area about $60.
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Old 12-06-2009, 03:10 AM   #20
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before i drop the trans i was gonna drop the fluid & filter. should i flush the t/c at that time? i was told that the valve body may just be clogged.
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:56 AM   #21
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The fluid will tell the story. Before you even drop the pan, smell the fluid. Does it smell verrry burnt? Do you have enough fluid in the trans when hot? If you drop the pan look at the bottom of the . Do you see metal shavings?(a lot?) is there thick muck in the pan?
The stuck/clogged theory does'nt hold here. You have reverse, a
manual gear, you don't have drive, a manual gear in 1st. Meaning that a rod moves a valve, if the valve was not moving the gear shifter would not move. Got me? Now the auto modes are really
2nd & 3rd gear, that were clogs and sticky valves come into play.
When this mh was put away was it due to a bad trans or some other reason and how long was it sitting? Seals are likely to be hardened. Vehicles are like people,we get symtons and we ignore or work around them and one day kaboom. You said your wife is not too keen on the rv idea, have a major breakdown and you will never get her to like the rv unless you buy a new one, not newer, but new. When you read the tech threads you will see many problems on new ones and some dealers have trouble sorting them out. Do your best to get it right the 1st time. Like me, you have no payment, we can afford to get it right. Be very careful if you work on the valve body, check balls very small and must go back in the correct cavity.
Also the correct gaskets have to be used, the kits come with many gaskets, you must choose the right ones.
J.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:02 AM   #22
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Well I had to replace all the ply on the ceiling so I tucked the ply as far as I could past the meatal supports and contact cemented them up and it seamed to work fine. My MH is a class A so it differs from your class C. Could you take the ply out redo the framing and seal the cab over with some eterna bond and snow roof?

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Old 12-07-2009, 10:36 PM   #23
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GOLDWINGER2 it's been a little crazy @ work. i will ck the fluid when i get back. i'm sure i already did, i just don't remember. it had to be ok or i would have remembered. either way you are right about wifey. and i do plan on doing it right. i just want to be able to move it a bit and then replace as i can.
2 more days and i'll be home then the work really starts
oh and don't worry about me rebuilding or attempting to rebuild the tranny, there are way to many parts. i'm positive nothing good will come of it.

TheDubs if your asking can i do the rebuild from the inside then seal the roof, i'm not really sure.

well plan "A" goes like this
remove cabinets. put a temp. support across drivers to pass. side.
remove overhead and 1/3 down the wall to see whats rotted.
then go from there.
if anyone see's a flaw in plan"A" feel free to post-up.
259 views only 21 replies. must be alot of shy folks here
thanks again,
JT
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:48 PM   #24
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Keep us posted and good luck on everything. If you have any questions give us a holler.
J
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:32 PM   #25
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thank you, mother nature put the screws to me getting home today, hoping for thursday now.
JT
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:01 AM   #26
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Good luck on the tearing down & rebuilding whatever you find! The rear wall on our bounder all along the bottom edge from the middle seam is all crunchy inside :(
The fiberglass outside is fine ,just whatever wood or other material/layers makes up the inside wall that needs renovating.

Cant really give any advice ... Ive got that part of our rebuild/renovate to come so havent found what ways/materials work best.
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:27 AM   #27
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thanks Pauland Ro, i can use all the psitive energy i can get . when are you going to tackle yours? being a full timer that must be difficult.
JT
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:44 PM   #28
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Well It sounds like a good plan, let us no how it goes for ya.
Justin
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