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Old 02-21-2012, 01:07 AM   #15
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Took her out once again last weekend. Before I left I lit the fridge and it wasn't cooling, even after 2 days. So, I think that it's probably been operated out of level in the past and the chemical mixture has crystallized and started blocking the cooling unit passages. I might be able to get a few more uses out of it if I "burp" it again.

I also swung by the weigh station on my way camping. Truck with 2 people, dog, a 1/2 tank of gas, a bed full of firewood and the trailer with the usual tank of water, food and stuff. 10,880 lbs. I need to spend some more time and weigh the trailer separately, as well as the truck.





Anyway, I was a rainy weekend. I got my redneck awning setup before it started. I thought I solved the leak in the corner but it's still there. I'm going to have to track that one down soon as fall is most definitely here.

After camping I decided it was time for a lift! Trailer jacked up to mimic the approx lifted height, which will be in the 4.5-5" range.


Just for kicks, mounted a spare set of mustang wheels on to not only verify the bolt pattern/backspacing, but to see how they look. If I were to run them, I couldn't use caps due to the hubs.


With the 'stang wheels at approx lifted height.


how she'll sit for the weekend, as i'm going to my parents place and taking the axles with me


And I forgot to mention my door mishap. There is a tensioning rod in the end of the door to keep it from sagging. When I fixed the bottom of it a few weeks back I tried to tighten it and ended up breaking the bolt off. Anyway, since then it started sagging bad and eventually not closing. Anyway, I took the door apart, reinforced a few places, fixed the tensioning rod and also replaced the cardboard with insulation. I also adjusted the door frame back to square.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:09 AM   #16
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Alright, so here is what I've been up to over the weekend and didn't get around to posting.

Loaded the axles in the 02 and took them across the state. Got them tied in really well. I couldn't leave the tailgate down and tie them in, cause the bed anchors are so far above the floor there was nothing to keep them from bouncing.



Welded on the new perches.


And the axles back in. Ended up being about 5" of lift.



Now to find a cheap set of larger tires, probably in the 235/75R15 size. I'm also part way through lowering the tongue jack down, which is proving to be slightly difficult but worth it in the end.

Well, I got a score of a deal on craigslist.

Replacement fridge. Mine was on it's way out, after the initial few uses it kept working less and less effectively.



Spare water pump.


120v to 12v converter.


All for $80.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:10 AM   #17
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One mod I kept forgetting to post was the Grote 6-LED surface mount flood lights I picked up on ebay. I mounted them on the outside of the trailer, and man they are awesome.


Truck and trailer with every light on.


Few misc camping shots, up to December of 2010



[QUOTE=Denaliano;4252503]This has been one of the most awesomest off "truck" topic GMFS threads of all time.

My first snow trip. At this point I replaced the 2 car batteries I had on the trailer with 2 Costco golf cart batteries. They are much larger and a much better deep cycle. I took the trailer out this weekend and ran the lights, flood lights, stereo and heater all weekend (was in the 20s) without any noticeable drop in power. The weekend was quite an adventure.

So, I first started off trying to go to Cle Elum, Wa to camp in the snow. After getting there, we had found out that this winter for the first time, they converted the camping NFS lands to Sno Parking permits. The permits are $42 per vehicle for 2 days. So, we instead went to Vantage, Wa to another camping area we like that doesn't have ridiculous fees. this area doesn't usually get snow, so we were a little bummed because of that, however we had quite the day Saturday. It started snowing around 10am and didn't stop till about 1am. We ended up with about 18" of snow...... Had quite the challenge getting the trailer back out to the road...












The trailer does actually tow quite well in the snow, didn't have any problems. This was the first time using the new towing mirrors, and all I can say is they are nothing short of amazing.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:13 AM   #18
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2 golf cart batteries


New trailer lead with a fully molded plug. Original had a wire burnt up in it.


235/75R15 Cooper Weathermaster ST tires. They are a bit taller and have an additional 600lbs capacity per tire.


New spare and backup lights


And, probably the most substantial "mod" : 99 K2500 6.5L Diesel 5-speed AKA the towpig.


I took the trailer out for the first tow in the 99. Oh man, the diesel pulls so, SO much better than the 88 does. This truck was out to the Juniper sand dunes.




My second snow trip. I went up to the foothills in Idaho, to one of my favorite camping areas. I went up a few weeks prior to see how the snowpack was doing and determined it would be passable by this time. I did however choose to take the 88 up with the trailer, because of it's maneuverability and tank like traction. This trip truly put to the tests of having the lift and larger tires on the trailer.

Friday evening. Was a bit of a challenge getting her up there, but I made it without any assistance. I just love how much of a tank the 88 is. Notice the mud spray up the front of the trailer.


My buddy Devin's 83 and the 88



This is how things looked Saturday night.


And this is the same view, Sunday morning.


Lots of snow.





Truck ready to depart.




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Old 02-21-2012, 01:15 AM   #19
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Few shots of the truck + trailer last down on the snake river. Got just a hair under 14MPG towing it. Also managed to swing by the scales, the truck + trailer was around 11800 LBS.








At this point, I was graduating college and it was time to move. So trailer resto stopped and I loaded the trailer up like a u-haul.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:17 AM   #20
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After moving and being unemployed, the trailer then sat 5-6 months. In that time i did a few things that were much more affordable.Trimmed the fender skirts. Before & after.



GMT400 spare tire jacks welded to the frame for cheap stabilizers. Before I had the old school aluminum frame and adjustable screw setup. The trailer needed to be perfectly level and they took while to setup, etc. Well, I'm still using the aluminum base stand from the original setup to make up the height (they are rated for 6k each), but just having the ability to adjust the level of the trailer with these is eliminated the hassle of wood blocks to level it side to side, etc.



I also grabbed some old GM emblems from the wrecker's. I modified the "Camper Special" by taking the 10,000 GVWR off the bottom. I also picked up "Trailering Special" emblem but didn't hack it up.


Mounted on the trailer side


And I mounted a matching set on the cabinet inside.



Another little finishing item, I modified the original aluminum control cover for the fridge to fit the one that I replaced it with. I also drilled a smaller hole in it to check the pilot light without removing it.


I then found a job and started working a great deal. A few weeks later the rain came and I found a leak in the left front corner inside, same spot it was from before. I suspected the roof or corner of the trailer, went through at the time and re-sealed the entire corner and re-coated the WHOLE roof. Then, last week we had a good rain, went to check the trailer and had the same leak up front. In a bit of a fit of anger I said $(#* it and started pulling paneling and insulation apart, and the front shelf since the water was pooling on it.




Turns out the front siding at the front window has a bit of a manufacturing defect that allowed water in where the siding overlaps and meets the upper window corner. Nothing some butyl putty didn't easily fix - or so I thought at the time.

So, the next plans for the trailer are to re-panel the front, kitchen wall, bathroom and ceiling, then paint the interior walls a lighter color, and convert the remaining 120v interior lights to 12v.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:18 AM   #21
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Another round of teardown started! I began removing wall paneling, in preparation for the lighting upgrades and panel replacement.



I also bought new light fixtures with a much better lens to help disperse the LEDs more. After removing the incandescent bulb sockets, I built new LED boards with twice the amount of LEDs and designed them in a 2-stage lighting configuration.






Spent quite a few hours tracking down what wiring did what. Finally determined what 120v lighting I could decommission and convert to 12v use. I was originally planning on having to run new 12v wiring all over, but as it turns out it couldn't have been more perfect. The front lights were tied in with a set of outlets up front and the kitchen light. These were at the end of the 120v run. This outlet was removed and the wiring converted to 12v for the lighting. I will be utilizing the box for a set of 12v outlets for phone chargers and the like.


Wall lamp converted to 12v


Did a bit of spray can work with the wall fixtures. Much better than the brushed bronze color IMO. I think i'll be doing more of the hardware and accent pieces in this color. They will be fitted with these E27 based 42LED lights.



Kitchen light replaced with 12v fixture after wiring convert.


While I was tracking wiring down, I learned that the kitchen, fridge and converter outlets were on their own circuit and not hooked into the GFCI the other circuit had. Figured since I had this laying around what the heck.


Also found some 5mm 3-ply plywood that I will be using to replace the bad paneling. Price is just right.

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Old 02-21-2012, 01:19 AM   #22
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Everything inside is all tore up, and after some heavy rain i kept finding small leaks inside that I never saw when the walls were together. After lots of detective work, it turns out the clearance lights were the culprit. The bases are thin, and flex upon attachment to the trailer. The lenses don't seal, and the way the wires connect allow water to travel down them into the trailer. Coupled with them beaing sealed with putty (as they were in 1978 as well) they just don't seal up well. So the solution was to take them off, clean and silicone the hell out of the backs of them. Well that

That plan quickly fell apart, as the light bases were so old and brittle many of them cracked or snapped in half. So the next solution, was new lights, with a sealed socket and tight fitting lens! You can see the obvious differences all around.





Out with the old. Notice the grime behind the bases, obviously where water was getting in.



The wiring hole behind many of the lights needed re-drilled/enlarged to be able to accept the new light socket. Also wired them in with solder and heatshrink, no crimps here!



Sealed up with some paintable elastomeric caulking.




All new lights, well except for the tails. Debating on swapping those out in the future.



Now that the outside should be sealed up (after waiting waiting for a dry day to get this done), work will be turned back to the inside again. Also been thinking about a new paint scheme later this year....
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:20 AM   #23
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I've been REALLY busy working on this thing. Got all the 120V lighting out, and all the 12v stuff wired in with a converter/charger as well. Re-routed some of the power wires, etc.

LOTS of insulation. I can see why this thing didn't hold much heat, they did a very poor job fitting the insulation. I've fixed that



Installing new paneling and insulating. Made sure everything was insulated, then attached the paneling with liquid nails and a brad gun. They aren't ever going to move....











Bathroom. There was only about 1/4" of insulation in the ceiling.... Not nearly enough.



Puttied the marks from the brads.



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Old 02-21-2012, 01:21 AM   #24
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Fridge enclosure




Put rigid insulation around the wheelwells, instead of the fiberglass batting.




Little mod I did. Made a cubby under the hamper cabinet, since it was wasted space originally.



Got the appliances painted (heater, fridge, oven and range hood) with the accent color: charcoal hammered finish rustoleum. With the exception of the fridge door, I took all these pieces to my dad's and mediablasted them to remove rust and the old paint. The only item that wasn't painted after media blasting was the stovetop, as it was stainless and flame would have hurt the finish obviously. The sink, stovetop and fridge trim are all staying brushed metal.





Also painted up the plastic bathroom accessories (towel holder, soap dish and TP holder) in the same rustoleum finish.
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78 Nomad 19'; Restored, 5" lift, 225/75R15, LED lighting, Delco stereo, 2.5' tongue extension, toolbox w/ Air
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:22 AM   #25
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Been caulking, puttying, and finishing the quarter round and flat trim between panels. A few misc shots.






Found one more place the paneling wasn't quite up to my standards, so I replaced this section as well.


The next step is to putty a few remaining brads, and then paint. Ceiling will be white, walls a beige/tan color.

Welp, everything inside is down to the bare minimum, and will be taped and painted this weekend.

In the mean time, I built some LED boards for the taillights.



Mounted to the backing plate.


It's really hard to get the actual effect of these things, but here is the parking light. It uses 2 of the 5 rows of lights, plus 7 facing out the side as a marker light, and 8 white facing down for the licence plate.


Brake/Signal illuminates the remaining 3 rows, for 5 total.


Super bright licence plate light.


Well, I finally gained my motivation back and started painting. Went to the store and picked out some paint colors. The white is for the ceiling, tan for the walls and the grey is close to what the floor is.


Got a coat on the ceiling.



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Old 02-21-2012, 01:24 AM   #26
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Seeing this come together has really made all this hassle worthwhile. I finished up all the interior painting. After that was done, I removed all the cabinet hardware and painted it all hammer grey and re-installed. Really happy with the outcome thus far. Starting to think about curtians and new fabric for the cushions.

Ignore the clutter, obviously this is a work space







Some of the details. Added more 12v outlets near the bed, from a 95 GMT400 complete with "pull" caps.


83-87 S-Series tailgate sticker I had laying around. Decided the fridge was a decent place to use it.


Painted the waterpump switch trim and thermostat to better match the outlets



Hammer grey clock, door pulls, etc


Just finished up a few things over the weekend and tonight after work.

I removed the screens and repaired/painted the window trim. While they were drying I cleaned the screens and of all things, tinted the windows. Yes, you read right. I tinted the windows. 5% to be exact. I also hammer finished a few other items (shower trim, window cranks) and re-installed everything. It's really coming together!








LED range hood and diffused lens.


Bathroo




I have never posted a picture of this. The original fire extinguisher from 1978. Still has a full charge and is ready to go.



Couple shots of how dark the 5% tint is. At night, if the lights are off it's almost pitch black inside.



The only things left are curtains and upholstery. Fabric is really expensive I've come to find out. I'm going to see what I can come up with, curtains are going to be first. I'm hoping to get rid of the ugly green inside once and for all.

Pulled the fridge and did some mods to it. I've always used a small battery powered fridge fan to help circulate the air inside and keep things cool. Instead of dealing with batteries etc, I mounted a 80MM fan inside the fridge on the cooling coils, and to help even more, a 120mm fan in the roof vent for the cooling stack. The switch is a 2-way, left turns on the interior fan and the blue light (cold fan). The right side turns both the inside and outside fan and blue (cold fan) and red light (hot fan). The idea is when it's moderate outside, i'll only need the inside fan to circulate the cool air. When it's hot both will be in use in order to pass more air past the back heating/cooling stack.

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Old 02-21-2012, 01:26 AM   #27
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That is where things are. I know there are LOTS of posts in there, I copied it from another thread I had devoted to the trailer. There will be more things happening in the future on this.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:41 AM   #28
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Nomad restoration

Awesome job on the restoration. You aren't afraid to tackle what needs to be done. Thanks for sharing pictures. We used lexell caulk when we took out our windows and resealed with butyl tape. Lexell caulk was applied around the exterior window. Bought at Ace hardwear. Don't use silicone caulk as it doesn't have any uv protection. Lexell caulk costs about $8.00 per tube. Well worth the price. Consider using stainless steel screws on the exterior. We also had to put in a new water pump and it is so much quieter than the old tired one. I am love the older trailers as they are very sturdy,well built.
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