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SyrenSkywolf · 06-25-2011, 11:57 PM

As some have seen in the New Rig section, I am redoing the cab-over bunk in our 1978 Tioga.

As I actively update the site with new pictures and such, and I post each time, it is being moved to here. I will post each time it is updated, so you don't have to lurk the site

The site also shows the work we did to obtain the motorhome. For those who haven't visited yet, feel free to look it over. For those who have, I have just updated it tonight, and you can go straight to the remodel section. The bunk is now all torn out.

Silver and Sky's Motorhome Project

Senior Chief · 06-26-2011, 04:24 PM

Boy, you've got lots accomplished already.

jimzz2001 · 06-26-2011, 05:46 PM

looking good. Jumping right into it. It's not as bad as a lot of them I have seen, but it still a lot of work to get it all replaced right.

Looks like your taking the bull by the horns and getting it done !

Good luck and congratulations on your decision to go back to school

JMonroe · 06-26-2011, 07:38 PM

That's one big air scoop you've got there!

SyrenSkywolf · 06-27-2011, 12:46 AM

@JMonroe: Had a nice sunroof today as well!

Silver and Sky's Motorhome Project - June 26th, 2011

New osb on roof in front, new bed, new framing in front. Forgot how much 3/4 hardwood plywood was compared to standard plywood

But boy, is it a lot more solid than standard, and almost no flex to it. The bed is one area NOT to cut corners in costs of supplies.

I have one more length of 2x2 left. Going to fit that in on the underside of the roof where the front aluminum panel screws down. Originally was only screwed (or was it nailed?) into the osb. Should give a lot more stability and strength up there.

blackf3504dr · 06-27-2011, 06:13 AM

I love your shirt ! The motor home is starting to look good.

JMonroe · 06-27-2011, 08:05 AM

A lot of progress, in a little time. Can't wait to see the end product, and I suspect you feel the same way.

It's lookin' great so far.

leadman · 07-02-2011, 07:38 PM

Looks like you are doing a great job! I almost remember when I had that much energy!
Should make you a nice little home for a few years.

Keep up the good job and don't get discouraged.

SyrenSkywolf · 07-03-2011, 12:03 AM

Brought work home with me tonight lol. Didn't get anything really noteworthy done today. Pretty much ran around all day trying to locate the right stuff from 3 or 4 different stores.

Brought the aluminum front piece home to clean it off. Has about 3 layers of sealer on it (same with the roof itself, but couldn't take that home). Top layer is a roofing sealer, like snow seal or something, a silicone based sealer under that, and for the grand finale, roofing tar underneath that...Covering the screws and everything.

Testing out soaking some WD40 on some right now, see how well I can get it out.

rough idea of what I am talking about... That is the roof overall, but it's all crammed in the trim used to connect it all together in the front.

Anyone have any ideas on how much of this junk I will need to take off to be able to use eternabond tape on it, and how wide of tape I should use?

SyrenSkywolf · 07-03-2011, 05:13 AM

Was going to edit last post to update, but apparently can't.

Got it all off of the aluminum and one of the pieces of trim so far. Calling it a night. Combination of propane torch, scraper and WD40. Learned to save the WD40 for last, or else it is messy the whole time.

I'm glad I am already adjusted to the idea of eventually needing to repaint, as most of the paint came up with the sealers, not to mention all the scratches from the scraper, but that was because I didn't care so much after I saw the paint come up with the tar.

Senior Chief · 07-03-2011, 07:32 AM

Eternabond needs to have a clean firm, surface to adhere, so you only need to remove old caulk or sealant that is loose or flaking, or likely to become so. The rule of thumb for preperation is to scrape off whatever you can get with moderate effort. If necessary to use chemicals or heat, NOT necessary to remove- the caulk is stable enough to overlay with Eternabond.

ANY silicone sealer needs to be removed COMPLETELY because nothing will cling adequately to it, not even more silicone.

Optimally, use Eternabond that is wide enough to cover the old caulk and extend to clean metal or fiberglass, but eternabond will in fact cling to virtually any substrate that is not greasy.

Senior Chief · 07-03-2011, 07:37 AM

Side note in case you didn't know; if you are planning to repaint over the Eternabond, get the web style single sided type. It has sort of a fabric back, and is made to be paintable. The white vinyl-backed Eternabond won't let paint adhere, but itself is a permanent bright white surface. The aluminum backed Eternabond is good for rebuilding dents or tears on your roof.

SyrenSkywolf · 07-03-2011, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senior Chief

Side note in case you didn't know; if you are planning to repaint over the Eternabond, get the web style single sided type. It has sort of a fabric back, and is made to be paintable. The white vinyl-backed Eternabond won't let paint adhere, but itself is a permanent bright white surface. The aluminum backed Eternabond is good for rebuilding dents or tears on your roof.

Thanks for the tip. I have never used Eternabond before, so that is good to know. Have been debating on putting snow seal or w/e the exact name is on the roof as well.

Senior Chief · 07-04-2011, 07:35 AM

Snow Roof or Kool Seal elastomeric roof coatings are an excellent last step in finishing your roof. I put a fresh coat of Kool Seal on our roof earlier this summer after installing a new fan and repairing some cracks.

It rolls on like thick latex paint; moisture interferes with the sealing, so just don't apply it late in the day near dewfall or when rain is in the forecast.