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Old 08-19-2015, 08:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaycoEagle10 View Post
Something you forgot. What cap poundage does old compare to new. Usually new radiators which are aluminum use a lower poundage cap as aluminum isn't as strong as brass/copper older radiators. New caps are around 9-15 lbs and older copper radiators are 15-19 lb pressure caps.
The old one was a 15lb. I may go with something lower for the new. As long as its cooling OK a higher pressure should not be needed.
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:39 AM   #16
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Good job doing your homework and sharing!

Reducing pressure on the system lowers the boiling point so suggest keeping it stock to avoid boil over.

A couple psi will make little difference in structure but could matter on a hill climb.

Confirm what the replacement unit is rated for and verify your understanding of your homework before jumping off.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:36 PM   #17
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Mine is all aluminum and welded at all points. It is for hi performance applications and takes the higher pressure caps. And to add to my previous post I've been thru several mountain passes and never went slow enough to need the fans, but found a brief 2-3 second spray of water when the temp started to move off what I like that the temp would drop back to happy land immediately. Tool a couple quick pics. The divice lower in the picture of the washer tanks for the spray bars, is water/methanol injection to combat spark knock/detonation under heavy load conditions. *Note* I'm Not trying to Hijack this thread or Toot My own horn** I'm only trying to present some ideas of what can be done to keep a unit Kool. The Only time I want to be on the side of the road, Is if I'm taking pictures,,
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:07 AM   #18
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Jpony56hd,
You made a nice setup with the panels for on the sides for airflow to the radiator and then the spray idea, that's a great idea. Also nice work on the ducting to the coolers.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:26 AM   #19
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Well all, I had a change of plans.
After talking with some places that do re-coring, I ended up with some wide prices.
The highest was an "estimate" of around $1,350. The lowest was a flat $500.


I left the radiator with the company doing it for $500. They can get the core today and said it might be done tomorrow or for sure will be done Monday. So the new radiator will be going back for a refund and I'll be putting the old one back in when I get it back.


I could not get myself 100% on board with the new radiator. I can't point a finger at exactly why. Everything seemed to be fine or even better than the old and once I got it worked out I'd be able to find a new radiator at pretty much any parts store.


There will be no chance of finding a replacement for the old. The place doing the work has been in business for 50 years and hadn't seen the same set up that I gave them. They knew it was out of an 80's GM motorhome, but the radiator was mounted as a down flow which was new to them.


I'm going to pay about a $400 premium for the re-core over the new one, but it'll be money well spent I think. The new core is a "heavy duty" one with 15 fins per inch. The old was 12. Being the old radiator was full of crap but still cooled well unless I pushed it hard on pretty steep hills, I am hoping this one to meets the need of anything I throw at it.


Jpony,
I don't think you are hijacking. That set up is awesome. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:23 PM   #20
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When mine was recored they stayed with the 4 core setup but went from 3/8" tubes to 5/8" cores. My temps went from 215* to 180*
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:44 PM   #21
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I hope mine stay that low. When I replaced the thermostat, I put the stock 195 degree in. It had a 180. I'll see how that goes.


I have found more pieces that I am going to preplace while I have everything apart. Since it'll be a pain to get to any other time, I am going to replace the power steering pump, all the belts, one of the idler pulleys, and the hoses.



Chevy must have thought the water pump was a structural part of the engine... the brackets and bolts on and around that thing are ridiculous!
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:59 PM   #22
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I hope mine stay that low. When I replaced the thermostat, I put the stock 195 degree in. It had a 180. I'll see how that goes.


I have found more pieces that I am going to preplace while I have everything apart. Since it'll be a pain to get to any other time, I am going to replace the power steering pump, all the belts, one of the idler pulleys, and the hoses.



Chevy must have thought the water pump was a structural part of the engine... the brackets and bolts on and around that thing are ridiculous!
I would give serious thought with going with a new high capacity aluminum water pump. At that age, anytime I had one that old and that far tore down. I always replaced the water pump.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:09 PM   #23
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I would give serious thought with going with a new high capacity aluminum water pump. At that age, anytime I had one that old and that far tore down. I always replaced the water pump.
Its being replaced. I started finding other things I wanted to replace while I was in the process of removing it. Its more work than I expected to remove. The radiator was easier. I'd hate to have to remove this while the radiator was in!
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:07 AM   #24
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Its being replaced. I started finding other things I wanted to replace while I was in the process of removing it. Its more work than I expected to remove. The radiator was easier. I'd hate to have to remove this while the radiator was in!
Great! I can guarantee you that the old one would have failed right away if not changed. You would have been kicking yourself for not doing it.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:16 PM   #25
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It's insane to try to replace ANYTHING at the front of the engine when everything is in place. I had to replace the clutch fan years ago, and it was a disaster. I wound up cutting a section out of the lower fan shroud for access and then cobbing up a way to put it back in.
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Old 08-22-2015, 11:31 AM   #26
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Our first MH was an 86 Allegro that had been sitting for 6 yrs. After owning a highway coach business for 25 yrs the first thing I did when it came to the shop was to take out the rad. I had it recored with a core that was 1 1/2 times thicker and had the cooling fins all the way across the rad. While the rad was in the shop I changed out the water pump for a high capacity pump, put on a flex fan and installed the temp control for the original electric fans in the rad hose going to the engine from the rad (should be the coolest part of the system). I wired a dash mounted amber light to the fans so I knew when they were running and could monitor the temp gages a little closer. I also put an auxiliary temp gage in the driver side head so I had a gage on both heads. We drove across the desert on I-10 in NM, AZ, and CA in Aug only slowing down (I drive between 60 and 65) when the light came on - usually in the heat of the afternoon. We were pulling a tow dolly with a 96 Dodge Caravan to add to the load of the engine (total wt was 23,800#). While we were in CA we went over Cajon pass several times, always in the right hand truck lane due to the HP of the 454 and not because of the temp. It may be a fix that a lot of people don't want to buy, but in 5 yrs we never had a temp problem.


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Old 08-22-2015, 08:48 PM   #27
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Well I hoped to have everything put back together today but it didn't happen. The water pump is replaced along with one of the power steeping pump belts. I have a new alternator belt but the one that goes around the A/C, power steering, water pump and crank is the wrong size. The way it was run before was wrong in that they left off the power steering pump. Not sure why a previous owner would only run one there when its set up for two...

I would really hate to try to replace the water pump with the radiator in. There is just so little room up front. I replaced the bypass hose, but the others I will reuse for now. I am having a hard time finding replacements locally. They appear to be in good shape and wont be too difficult to replace later.

I have the new radiator in the channel, but it is hitting something about 1/2 way up. I fought it for about 30 minutes and walked away since I was getting frustrated. Tomorrow I will look at it again with fresh eyes.

The row size on the new core is 1/2". The row count is the same, but fin count higher. I am not sure if the old core was 3/8" or 1/2". The new looks to be packed in a bit tighter.

I went over everything and even replaced a bolt I did not like. It was a long bolt than ran through the A/C pump bracket and top mounting hole one side of the water pump. There was no pressure put on the water pump though. I am guessing at some point that was removed in the past and a sleeve was not put back in. It did not make any sense why it would be like that from the factory. I used a bolt the same length as the other 3 and secured it. I left the A/C mount bolt out since it is very secure with its others and it doesn't work...

Its really close now. Looking forward to having a new cooling system on the beast. It'll be one less thing to worry about.
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Old 08-22-2015, 09:07 PM   #28
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Well I hoped to have everything put back together today but it didn't happen. The water pump is replaced along with one of the power steeping pump belts. I have a new alternator belt but the one that goes around the A/C, power steering, water pump and crank is the wrong size. The way it was run before was wrong in that they left off the power steering pump. Not sure why a previous owner would only run one there when its set up for two...

I would really hate to try to replace the water pump with the radiator in. There is just so little room up front. I replaced the bypass hose, but the others I will reuse for now. I am having a hard time finding replacements locally. They appear to be in good shape and wont be too difficult to replace later.

I have the new radiator in the channel, but it is hitting something about 1/2 way up. I fought it for about 30 minutes and walked away since I was getting frustrated. Tomorrow I will look at it again with fresh eyes.

The row size on the new core is 1/2". The row count is the same, but fin count higher. I am not sure if the old core was 3/8" or 1/2". The new looks to be packed in a bit tighter.

I went over everything and even replaced a bolt I did not like. It was a long bolt than ran through the A/C pump bracket and top mounting hole one side of the water pump. There was no pressure put on the water pump though. I am guessing at some point that was removed in the past and a sleeve was not put back in. It did not make any sense why it would be like that from the factory. I used a bolt the same length as the other 3 and secured it. I left the A/C mount bolt out since it is very secure with its others and it doesn't work...

Its really close now. Looking forward to having a new cooling system on the beast. It'll be one less thing to worry about.
He ran one belt and not two because two belts do not work. I got smart and put two on my son-in-laws motorhome. we started for Pigeon Forge at dark. We got there at 4 am. The belts kept jumping off. Finally at 3 am I looked and saw that the two belts running together kept knocking each other off. I grabbed my knife and cut the second belt. We never had another problem. The factory had designed the engine for two belts but that just did not work. I never worked on an engine that had two belts. I guess everybody else had the same problem.
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