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03-19-2011, 12:21 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLNSMOKE
This is already beginning to be a fun topic...First I'll comment on what jim was saying about cooling...I like your idea's about the airflow thing. I looked at the front end the other day and thought I could build a large scoop to funnel more air to my rad. I'll have a look at it again here soon and see what I have to do.
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I have a "Scoop" on my (Street/strip) El Camino and below 25 MPH it doesn't work all that well, That's where a good fan/shroud and good air flow comes into play when low speeds and heavy traffic in town.
My 83 Itasca (454) came stock with a 5 blade fan, Dug up a nice 18 inch 7 blade fan....Have you checked yours?
Jim
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03-19-2011, 12:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLNSMOKE
And what about an aluminum intake? While I'm there I could also install a lifter valley tray. Keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the carb area and holds your lifters in if you break a push rod. I had one of these installed on a 305 Chev engine I had in my first stock Car. That engine beat up on 350's and was very very reliable...
More than HP though ,I want tourque...wish this engine was a 455 olds with that huge stroke motor!
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"Chebby" developed a very good high torque STOCK manifold which works well up to and around 4,400 RPMs, I would leave it alone.
Once you get the air dam in place and create a "Low pressure area" behind the radiator I feel e'nuf cool air will enter the engine area.
Remember, You are running at a higher altitude plus it's not as hot as the climate I live in....
IF you can find a stock thermostat housing with 2 drilled holes in it that's where I would install the digital temp gauge, Or else get a stocker and drill and tap the second hole.
Jim
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03-19-2011, 01:30 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 560
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Several rigs back, we had a 31 ft, 83 Pace Arrow. I enclosed the entire area from the front of the "bumper" back to the underneath the radiator. It made a significant difference in the amount of time the fan clutch engaged. With that, I also found I was better off to run a little faster on flat ground.
__________________
PKMesser
2005 KSCA 3778 on 04 W22 with Koni FSD
Banks Headers, 503 CID
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03-19-2011, 05:00 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,420
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i would never remove the factory fan now i did add a electric to help in stop and go traffic. state inspection went ok today have been doing butchers best friend then mop and go today. as far as changing rims i rebuilt the front end and with a new alignment i like the way mine drives
dave
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03-20-2011, 06:25 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 671
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Even though we have a Ford I really enjoy reading these performance upgrade discussions. Many of the ideas work for mine too...
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03-20-2011, 08:36 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 242
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So how does this engine come out of the chassis? Mine doesn't have a drivers door (don't like that) I heard someone say it comes out he drivers door??
I haven't had much time to look at it since I got it last week. I have to tighten up the fan belts (squeeling) so we'll see how fun it is to work on...
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03-20-2011, 08:54 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 242
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P.S I found a website called "thefind.com..." and they have an 8 blade electric fan from a 96 Pace Arrow...hmmm 119 bucks US. Looks like it has a bracket for it to mount as well...Anyone ever deal with these guys.
I like the idea of the electric fan...quieter,doesn't rob horse power,and faster warm up times...I would keep the fan "in stock" incase the electric one lets me down on the road...
P.P.S- What is the real HP and TQ of this engine? Torque is my main concern.
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03-20-2011, 09:45 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 1,265
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230hp 360 torque
J
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03-20-2011, 10:43 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLNSMOKE
P.S I found a website called "thefind.com..." and they have an 8 blade electric fan from a 96 Pace Arrow...hmmm 119 bucks US. Looks like it has a bracket for it to mount as well...Anyone ever deal with these guys.
I like the idea of the electric fan...quieter,doesn't rob horse power,and faster warm up times...I would keep the fan "in stock" incase the electric one lets me down on the road...
P.P.S- What is the real HP and TQ of this engine? Torque is my main concern.
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About 20 horses is removed when the engine fan kicks IN, The trick is in the cooling mod's and keep it OFF.....
230 HP and 360 torque as written is about right which amounts to about 1/2 horse per cubic inch (very lazy engine).
Without tearing into the engine I see NO reason why it cannot be bumped up to 325 horses and 450 FP of torque which is still a pretty lazy engine...
Jim
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03-20-2011, 12:32 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,420
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hey jim my choke yesterday would never let my 4 barrel open yesterday it was 86 deg. i have already drilled the rivets and taped the holes my boss gave me a q-jet with elect. choke im thinking about changing out i have already changed the bimetal spring the same results im thinking about hooking into the windshield wiper fuse what do you think
dave
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03-20-2011, 12:40 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whem2fish
hey jim my choke yesterday would never let my 4 barrel open yesterday it was 86 deg. i have already drilled the rivets and taped the holes my boss gave me a q-jet with elect. choke im thinking about changing out i have already changed the bimetal spring the same results im thinking about hooking into the windshield wiper fuse what do you think
dave
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Hi Dave, Yes the "Windshield wiper fuse" would work fine since the ignition key in the OFF position will remove ALL 12V power...
That "Choke unloader" is pretty fussy and might need an ever so slight tweak so use a lite hammer
Jim
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03-20-2011, 12:47 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Back to the cooling issue......When I tore down my 83 to replace ALL/everything that rotated on the engine I took the radiator down to the shop for the inspection...
My, My.....What was found out while it's a 4 row the "tubes" were only 3/8, After a good laugh the critter now has the same 4 rows but with 1/2 inch tubes.
Just thought I would toss that into the mix...
Jim
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03-20-2011, 12:58 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salem, NJ
Posts: 337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimElliott
The above "mods" will really the under the hood temps (water wise)
Jim
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I have feeling I know the answer, but there is a very important adjective missing from the above sentence, between "really" and "the".
My guess is "DROP" or "LOWER"...but the OP should probably confirm for anyone not really sure...
__________________
Always remember, you're a unique individual - just like the other 7 billion people on the planet...
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03-20-2011, 01:07 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiminJersey
I have feeling I know the answer, but there is a very important adjective missing from the above sentence, between "really" and "the".
My guess is "DROP" or "LOWER"...but the OP should probably confirm for anyone not really sure...
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Jiminjersey your correct.....Lower the temps is correct and I thank you for the catch..
Jim
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