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Old 03-21-2011, 09:49 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by JimElliott View Post
About 20 horses is removed when the engine fan kicks IN, The trick is in the cooling mod's and keep it OFF.....
230 HP and 360 torque as written is about right which amounts to about 1/2 horse per cubic inch (very lazy engine).
Without tearing into the engine I see NO reason why it cannot be bumped up to 325 horses and 450 FP of torque which is still a pretty lazy engine...

Jim
Ya that seems very low....I am quite impressed with the power it has...so I guess it can only get better.

So Jim do u know how this engine is removed..or is it removable?? haha!
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:04 AM   #30
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Ya that seems very low....I am quite impressed with the power it has...so I guess it can only get better.

So Jim do u know how this engine is removed..or is it removable?? haha!
Well I guess you really want to remove your engine so either it drops out from the bottom OR after removing the external engine parts it will slide through the grill area....
With only 58,000 miles on the engine it would seem to me there is much life left in it.
Once out and torn down I can see 496 cubes going back in...

Jim
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:00 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=JimElliott;813851]Well I guess you really want to remove your engine so either it drops out from the bottom OR after removing the external engine parts it will slide through the grill area....
With only 58,000 miles on the engine it would seem to me there is much life left in it.
Once out and torn down I can see 496 cubes going back in...

Jim[/QUOTE

lol nah... I have no intentions of yanking that engine. Just more curious than anything..but guess what...the plot thickens....I was messing around with my new rig tonight and found a stach of service records. Apparently the engine was replaced in 1990! I have no idea what happened to the other motor???? But it was done by a GM shop and it had a GM part number...Around 2800 bucks was the cost just for the engine. 700 dollars labour to R&R it...that is canadian prices from 1990.

I wonder if the speedo on these only goes up to 100,000 km's?? And if so then I guess it would have 186000 km's...anyone know?

P.S If I was putting another engine in I'm pretty sure it would be a 12 valve cummins. Super simple (needs three wires to run engine) and engine mods are easy and cheap as can be.I'd have way more torque not to mention fuel economy..and if I want I could run it on Vegetable oil as well...always wanted to do that....for now we'll run this thing as is untill it $hits out a part number...lol
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:25 PM   #32
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jim i was looking i think i have your phone # do you get text messages yo post my pics
dave
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:32 PM   #33
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jim i was looking i think i have your phone # do you get text messages yo post my pics
dave
Dave, I don't recieve text messages on my lowly Sprint phone
I wouldn't know how to text back to you

Jim
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:30 AM   #34
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sent you a e-mail ill send pics maybe between me and you we can post
dave
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:10 AM   #35
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Well I think I'm going to make the swap today to 6v batteries. It has 3 12v batteries right now but from what I hear,two 6v's would be better. The reserve capasity is 160 on th e12v's and 440 on the 6v's (each battery).

We'll see how it works.
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Old 04-08-2011, 01:07 AM   #36
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HI, This is a great thread, and I believe a lot will pertain to me also. I just purchased last Thursday a 1995 Safarai Trek Model 2820 with the 454. It is a TBI motor and of course as soon as we said yes to buying it things started to go wrong in the next 24 hours. And, a lot of things had just been done to it so of course I thought what could go wrong? Well, the a/c belt went and then it overheated while idling, for just a short while, on a Hollywood, CA neighborhood street, while we said good bye to the seller. Thankfully he drove us around Hollywood to Pep Boys, Autozone, and Home Depot to get a thermostat, themrostat gasket, and some tools, and then bought us dinner. Driving back to Albuquerque was uneventful, except for the potholes to China on I-40 east between Barstow & Needles. We averaged 9.4 mpg (me) while trying to maintain 60 mph from LA to Seligman and 10.7 mpg (wife) while trying to maintain 55 mph from Seligman to Albuquerque. I put in a OEM 195 degree thermostat from Pep Boys and ended up reusing the thermostat gasket as I had bought the standard oval shape one, and this engine uses a round rubber gasket that sits down in the manifold with the thermostat on top of the gasket. But, since I want to change that gasket out with a new one sometime I will buy that Summit racing thermostat and have it ready to put it in.

I am curious about blocking the air flow gaps and directing air into the radiator. Do you have any pics of what you did to achieve this goal? Did you completely block off the bottom of that front area from the road below, so no air can pass under the radiator? Did you attach a piece of sheet metal or something else to the bottom of the frame in that area? Did you put a piece of sheet metal to the sides of the radiator, streching from the radiator to the grill, so the air can only go thru the radiator and not past it on the sides? There is so much stuff in that area I am thinking it would be difficult to get that area closed off so as to make what I envision is a completely focused air shaft into the front of the radiator. There is also a huge electric fan on the front of my radiator that I have not seen come on yet so I do not know what it really is...is it the fan to the engine? Does it only come on when the a/c is turned on? Is there a "regular" fan behind the radiator, and viewable only from the doghouse in the coach? And, how does the rubber air dam look attached to the frame?

And, I am sure I have an HEI ignition & distributor on this 1995 motor but is there anything that can be done to it to make it better?

Finally, anyone have any experience with the Glowshift gauges? They are sure "pretty looking" and are inexpensive, as some of the Autometer, VDO, a S-w gauges go, but is there any substance? The reviews are mixed from what I see but I sure like their set-upp for water temp: cut the upper radiator hose and insert their "extension" and that is where the water temp sensor goes. That seems a lot simpler and easier than drilling & tapping a new sensor in the thermostat housing, or looking for an existing spot to use. I am considering the black 7 color series. And, although I know not all these gauges are needed I think it would be slick to have lots of gauges. The "required" gauges are: water temp, oil pressure, volt meter, and tachometer. The "discretionary" gauges are: oil temp, tranny temp, vacuum, wideband air/fuel, fuel pressure, (2) dual air pressure - 1 to measure the front two air suspension bags and 1 for the two rear bags, and (6) air pressure - 1 for each tire ..now, not saying I am buying all these gauges but it would be slick to make this coach look like a cockpit! LOL GlowShift Performance Gauges & Pods

Oh, living in Albuquerque my driving involves a lot of "hills" to get out of this city, especially the steep one (10% grade) into & out of my neighborhood at about 5 - 10 mph.

Thanks for the clarification about the air flow & dam. Pictures would be great!
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:08 AM   #37
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Check out Amazon for the Glowshift products; they appear to be significantly cheaper than their website!
Amazon.com: glowshift gauges: Automotive
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:49 AM   #38
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I am curious about blocking the air flow gaps and directing air into the radiator. Do you have any pics of what you did to achieve this goal? Did you completely block off the bottom of that front area from the road below, so no air can pass under the radiator? Did you attach a piece of sheet metal or something else to the bottom of the frame in that area? Did you put a piece of sheet metal to the sides of the radiator, streching from the radiator to the grill, so the air can only go thru the radiator and not past it on the sides? There is so much stuff in that area I am thinking it would be difficult to get that area closed off so as to make what I envision is a completely focused air shaft into the front of the radiator.

NO pictures on the air gap closings and besides I don't know how to paste them on the board...
Used "Rubber" from a cut up tire mud flap (thin) to cover the side gaps, Drivers side was a 3 inch gap and the passenger side was 5 inch wide....
On the bottom was a "V" gap and a piece of plastic was screwed down all the way across....
I would NOT allow the rubber to rub the sides of the radiator.
Just see what can be moved out of the way of your air flow (more the better).
Since you have a "TBI" your ignition is computer controlled but there is a work around for that and perhaps "SUM1" will drop in here and explain how the "Harris chips" will work for you....

Jim
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:57 AM   #39
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TBI CHIPS

The above site is the "Harris chip" place.....
Since you are going to install a "LM2 wideband" sensor I would NOT make a decision on what to tell him until you know exactly what your exhaust readings are and at what RPMs....

Jim
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:49 PM   #40
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well I took the old "PACE MAKER"....out 4 a spin up a pretty steep hill....With my jeep (3.8v6) I was able to get 105 kmhr using wide open throttle...with my motorhome I was able to get 95 km/hr up the same hill. It seems like this motor home has more power than the jeep....pretty impressed. hey did these things come with dual exhaust from the factory? Mine has duals anyway...just wondering.

so my big thing now is still this towing issue.I've read "3500" pounds all over the place but isn't that if you're towing something with no brakes on the unit being towed??

the car trailer I want to tow wheighs 2400 lbs. The jeep is about 5000 lbs the dirt bike and quad about 1000lbs. So 8500lbs aprox with the trailer and my toys.
The trailer will be brand new with electric brakes on BOTH axles,so stopping won't be an issue. The frame looks pretty strong but I was going to beef it up just to be sure.

Am I wasting my time here? I will never be towing very far. 4 hr drive at the very most. Usually 1hr each way to my camping spots will be more realistic. I just want it to be safe...and legal if possible.lol

Just having a hard time to find poeple that have towed this much wieght. maybe I should check the jeep forums.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:10 PM   #41
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P.S I just went to a jeep forum and there was a fellow with a 1995 Damon Intruder that was towing a cartrailer and a jeep...his overhang behind the wheele was MUCH longer than mine...I think this may be doable..lol... and Don't those damons have the 460? I heard the 454's have more power than the 460 Fords..?
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:53 PM   #42
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the frame extensions will be the week point i had mine boxed in now i do tow
close to 6000 lbs on a dolly
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