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Old 04-09-2011, 09:28 PM   #43
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The coolant temperature should be taken in the block before the thermostat. In the radiator hose you will be getting the coolant temp after the thermostat opens. If it sticks closed you do not get a reading showing this.
I just put in a 195' Murray brand thermostat that if it fails goes to the open position. Bought it at O'Rielley's.
I recently installed a new 4 core radiator in my MH and had trouble with the engine getting up to temperature. My MH originally had a coach water heater that was heated by the engine coolant but was removed many years ago. Someone had run the lines that went to the water heater to the radiator. This caused coolant to by-pass the thermostat. Fixed this then the 180' t-stat would let coolant start to flow to the radiator at 160'. The fan clutch would then engage at 170', so this caused low coolant temp as well as higher gas usage.
Too cold to get it to 195' today but it does get to 180' idling so hopefully everything will work as designed now.
I spoke with the technician at the fan clutch manufacturer and he recommended a 195' t-stat without the bleed hole in it so the fan clutch will operate correctly.

Hope this info helps you decide on repairs to your MH.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:24 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by whem2fish View Post
the frame extensions will be the week point i had mine boxed in now i do tow
close to 6000 lbs on a dolly
Ya I was looking at it today and it looks pretty easy to stiffen up the frame.

What's it like towing 6000lbs? does it lug the engine much?

My fan belt was squealing and everywhere I read it said it was such a terrible job and so hard to get at etc etc...went out,pulled the dog house cover off,got a prybar,a 9/16 and a 1/2" wrench..oh and a prybar too...took me all of 10 minutes start to finish...very easy job...every where I read people were saying to take the fan shroud off,jack up the front and remove the front left tire etc etc....lol no need 4 any of that...

Oh and I can do 0 to 60 in 19 seconds....that was against the wind and slight up hill...not bad I thought...
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:20 AM   #45
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you can tell its there on uphill climbs buy it doesnt slow down
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:43 PM   #46
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I was considering replacing the clutch fan on my 454 with an electric fan, but I need to know what in the junk yard would be a close fit, and move enough air. I did this with a 4 banger jeep on 33 tires, and got all kinds of horse power back. In an effort to cool down the radiator, I have heard of a product called , water wetter, that can help, it is supposed to reduce water tension, and somehow make it cool more efficiently. For those interested seeing air dams, I'll try to take a pic of mine tomorrow. I believe they are make of sheet alum., installed by the previous owner.
Rodney
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:22 AM   #47
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I was considering replacing the clutch fan on my 454 with an electric fan, but I need to know what in the junk yard would be a close fit, and move enough air. I did this with a 4 banger jeep on 33 tires, and got all kinds of horse power back. In an effort to cool down the radiator, I have heard of a product called , water wetter, that can help, it is supposed to reduce water tension, and somehow make it cool more efficiently. For those interested seeing air dams, I'll try to take a pic of mine tomorrow. I believe they are make of sheet alum., installed by the previous owner.
Rodney

I did the same with a '74 Bronco I put a 351 Windsor in, it worked great. I'd start by measuring the radiator then go see if I could find something that would match up. I'm not sure how many OEMs use electric fans though... I for one would like to see pics of the air dam.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:48 AM   #48
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I had a 2005 Silverado with a 5.3 that only had electric fans from the factory. The coolant temperature would climb to 240' to 250' when climbing the mountains. Gm said this was o.k., but I heard Chevy went back to the fan clutch.
I think others on this site have tried the electric fans so a search may turn up some info.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:33 PM   #49
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As promised, pics of the air dam on my 85 Winnebago Chieftain 454.
Passenger side:


Driver side:


And for anyone interested, a pic of my aux. electric fan, which comes in hand when in a traffic jam in Atlanta, GA:

Rodney
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:34 AM   #50
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Also changed out the 195* stock thermostat and installed a "Stewart componets" high flow stat (180*) Summitracing.com and part number EMT-301.

Jim
Since the thermostat has no effect once the temp gets up to 180, it will rarely help to put a lower thermostat in, if your goal is reducing heat.

In addition, anything with computer control (and that starts at something like 1992, right?) will run rich if you have too low a thermostat in it.
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:22 AM   #51
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Thanks for the pictures Rodney.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:41 PM   #52
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Since the thermostat has no effect once the temp gets up to 180, it will rarely help to put a lower thermostat in, if your goal is reducing heat.

In addition, anything with computer control (and that starts at something like 1992, right?) will run rich if you have too low a thermostat in it.
Check out the size (flow) of a cheap thermostat and compare it to a good "Robertshaw stat" BIG difference..

Jim
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:43 AM   #53
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Since the thermostat has no effect once the temp gets up to 180, it will rarely help to put a lower thermostat in, if your goal is reducing heat.

In addition, anything with computer control (and that starts at something like 1992, right?) will run rich if you have too low a thermostat in it.

If heating issues are that bad just take the guts out of the thermostat or first try drilling three 1/8 inch holes on the outer edge of the thermostat. It will definately make a difference. I used to race stock cars and I had a 350 chevy that would run up to 260 degrees, took the guts out and it would stay at about 192 degrees for teh whole race...so it does work.
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:48 AM   #54
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Put the 180* stat in and it made a big difference at keeping the engine cooler. Got a tach for it as well as a temp gauge... Going to put a second trany cooler on or maybe just a small fan because the trans temp gets up to 200 degrees if I'm pulling in the hills.higher than I would like it. Could try heat shields on the exhaust pipes too.

Hey Jim if yer listening, I see it has air bags in the front suspension springs... How much air can I put in those? Might come in handy for the spots I like to camp in for extra ground clearance.
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:50 AM   #55
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Ps... Getting the woodstove ready to go... Lol found an old oilfield casing in the bush and a diesel exhaust stack for the chimney.. Lol
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:21 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by ROLLNSMOKE View Post
Put the 180* stat in and it made a big difference at keeping the engine cooler. Got a tach for it as well as a temp gauge... Going to put a second trany cooler on or maybe just a small fan because the trans temp gets up to 200 degrees if I'm pulling in the hills.higher than I would like it. Could try heat shields on the exhaust pipes too.

Hey Jim if yer listening, I see it has air bags in the front suspension springs... How much air can I put in those? Might come in handy for the spots I like to camp in for extra ground clearance.
90 PSI is the max I've had in mine and the coach will raise a few inches.....Good eye on the trannie temps, I like to keep mine at/around 170*.

Jim
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