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Old 03-18-2011, 10:25 AM   #1
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1983 fleetwood pace arrow modification section!!!!!

"Jim" asked me to start something for mods to do with engine mods etc.
What I'm trying to accomplish here is to have a more powerfull fun to drive and more fuel efficient rig that can "sraighten the curves" and flatten the hills"...

I will be using my camper for mainly "boondocking" or "random" style camping....

Everything from engine mods to chassis,interior etc is welcome here.

Post things you intend on doing to your rig or have done or seen before.

No dreamers please...lol
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:31 AM   #2
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I'll go first ....I plan on putting a electric fan in and see what that does for noise and fuel economy. Also I have a larger set of tires 235/85R16's to put in place of the 215/85R/16's that are on it now. They are called Total Terrain Radial A/T's and they worked awsome on my old 1970 Scamper Motor Home. I need that extra clearance for getting into the places I like to camp...
Would also like to widen the stance on the front end to make it more stable...any idea's? Offset rims or wheel spacers??
We'll get to where I'm mounting the woodstove later...haha!
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:01 PM   #3
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I'll go first ....I plan on putting a electric fan in and see what that does for noise and fuel economy. Also I have a larger set of tires 235/85R16's to put in place of the 215/85R/16's that are on it now. They are called Total Terrain Radial A/T's and they worked awsome on my old 1970 Scamper Motor Home. I need that extra clearance for getting into the places I like to camp...
Would also like to widen the stance on the front end to make it more stable...any idea's? Offset rims or wheel spacers??
We'll get to where I'm mounting the woodstove later...haha!
I really hope the powers don't move this thread cuz it screws up my finding of your last thread....
Prior to installing your new "fan" I would remove the grill and move everything that blocks or deflects the air flow into the radiator including any air that will flow out through the bottom....
(On mine) I had 3 inches of gap (drivers side) that allowed air to bypass around the side of the radiator and 4 inches around the passenger side, Block those gaps and force more air through the rad.
Also changed out the 195* stock thermostat and installed a "Stewart componets" high flow stat (180*) Summitracing.com and part number EMT-301.
The above "mods" will really the under the hood temps (water wise)
Next step will be the ignition (HEI) but I won't get into that until these "mods" are completed....
One thing about the ignition "mods" you will find once it's finished is the engine will run even cooler and greater power is obtained along with a fuel mileage increase.....BUT please, Lets get the air flow completed first.

Jim
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:17 PM   #4
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Ummm, While your resting between the "MODS", Scrounge around for a nice stiff chunk of rubber and make a "air dam"....6-8 inches wide should be e'nuf and about 4-5 feet long and place it below your radiator on that big piece of frame..

For years now all of the car/truck makers have installed "air dams" on the majority of their cars.....

Jim
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:18 PM   #5
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I really hope the powers don't move this thread cuz it screws up my finding of your last thread....
Just click on members name then click "statistics" and it will show you all his last posts even any that may have been moved. Click on if you want all posts or threads started.
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:23 PM   #6
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jims the man dist mod and headers i get 8 mpg pulling a 2007 chevy 4 door truck
dave
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:45 PM   #7
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Would also like to widen the stance on the front end to make it more stable...any idea's? Offset rims or wheel spacers??


Offset rims or wheel spacers would increase the loads on your wheel bearings. Not sayin' it wouldn't work but it would definitely change the design loads. Something to think about.

I also have the "bread truck" style narrow front wheel track and while the newer wide track chassis look way better, I have to wonder if there is any hard evidence of just how much more stable the wider axle provides. Could be a big difference or a person could go to a lot of trouble and cost for something that make little noticeable improvement.

I'm not trying to 'diss' your idea, just "talking out loud" here. I'd actually like to see you do it so we can learn how it turned out.

BTW, stick with what Jim suggests to you. He has a lot of good knowledge that pertains to your drivetrain.
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:46 PM   #8
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jims the man dist mod and headers i get 8 mpg pulling a 2007 chevy 4 door truck
dave
Dave, That 4 door truck hasta be dang heavy.....Any idea on what it weighs?
8 MPG is pretty decent...
Last Saturday while installing Koni shocks (two of us) I dug into the distributer for a health checkup and to find out why the fuel mileage has been dropping (8.25 MPG) well found out there was some rust and crud inside that critter.
Disassembled the dist and cleaned it well (Berryman B-12) and brought in the weights to the buffing wheel for rust removal, After buffing using the "Green bar of buff" they looked like chrome and moved/slid nicely and all power has been returned.
I'm evaluating the new stage 2 "SMI" quad carb also and between the two that coach gets up and moves.....
Gotta keep an eye on the engine vacuum cuz between those 2 items the vacuum has increased by 2 inches moving down the road @60 MPH.


Jim
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:49 PM   #9
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Offset rims or wheel spacers would increase the loads on your wheel bearings. Not sayin' it wouldn't work but it would definitely change the design loads. Something to think about.

I also have the "bread truck" style narrow front wheel track and while the newer wide track chassis look way better, I have to wonder if there is any hard evidence of just how much more stable the wider axle provides. Could be a big difference or a person could go to a lot of trouble and cost for something that make little noticeable improvement.

I'm not trying to 'diss' your idea, just "talking out loud" here. I'd actually like to see you do it so we can learn how it turned out.
X2

Jim
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:26 PM   #10
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The engineers designed the wheel to run centered on the wheel bearing. If you extend the rims out it will torque the bearings because the weight and abuse will be on the outside of the bearings thus creating an unnatural ball path, which will shorten the life of the bearing by 1/2 or more. I worked for a bearing supply house for 22 years and had a customer that would widen the stance of his race cars, he bought the bearings by the dozen and change them every third race.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:53 PM   #11
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Not all vehicles run with the wheel centered between the bearing. Some of the heavy 1 ton Chevy pick-ups have a wheel offset to the outside by quite a bit.
May want to take a look around a scrap yard to find one of these as the bolt pattern could be the same.
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:44 AM   #12
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im thinking 5200 lbs il look on sticker today don't forget the dolly.i beefed the factory hitch up by tieing it in to the spare tire carrier. now if anyone needs tail light lenses they are # 72 i have some as i just replaces the 6 on the rv (these are discontuned.) im off for a safety inspection today (no smog check)
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:35 AM   #13
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This is already beginning to be a fun topic...First I'll comment on what jim was saying about cooling...I like your idea's about the airflow thing. I looked at the front end the other day and thought I could build a large scoop to funnel more air to my rad. I'll have a look at it again here soon and see what I have to do.

as for the wider stance...someone was wondering if it would make a difference...well of course it will. Just look at how stable a three wheeler is compared to a four wheeler...that is egsagerating things but you get the idea.

And about placing the load on th end of the bearing...and having it wear out quicker...I agree. BUT,dam near 3/4's of all Pick-up trucks here in Alberta have offset rims. I have them on my Diesel Super Duty.sure they may wear out,but not at a rate that anyone talks about it because I've never heard one person complain about the bearings going prematurley.

I would rather replace the bearings here and there and have it stable and safer to drive.

Either way thanks for the input and I heard someone say the newer chassis had a wider stance. What years was this chassis made from? (talking about my chassis)

P.S- I live in Alberta Canada so I don't see the hot hot days as much as other people may. I like the thermostat idea Jim talked about.Before I do that I am going to put a good water temp gauge and a tach on this rig to give me a better idea of whats going on inside that motor. I will be towing a hefty load so I'm sure that I will have to do some changes in the cooling department. Never thought modifying a motorhome could be so fun...lol


P.S.S I think my jeep is around 4500 pounds. Anyone know what an average car trailer wheighs?
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:41 AM   #14
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And what about an aluminum intake? While I'm there I could also install a lifter valley tray. Keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the carb area and holds your lifters in if you break a push rod. I had one of these installed on a 305 Chev engine I had in my first stock Car. That engine beat up on 350's and was very very reliable...
More than HP though ,I want tourque...wish this engine was a 455 olds with that huge stroke motor!
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