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Old 09-21-2016, 12:01 PM   #29
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isolator pic

Thanks for the pic. I do have that one but in mine there are 2 isolators it appears one was for the emergency button and one for the starter battery. They only had one battery hooked up when I got it so trying to figure how to separate lines for the starter and house batteries. I have uploaded a drawn up diagram how they had a single battery hooked up.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:05 PM   #30
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Not to be picky, but I am. You have constant duty solenoids, not isolators. The difference is the isolators have no moving parts and are not wired the same. The solenoids have 2 heavy contacts inside that when the small wire is energized the internal coil closes to connect both posts. Work the same way as the small starter solenoids that Ford used to use but those were for momentary use, yours should be for constant duty.
One of your solenoids should be for house battery charging, the other for connecting the house and starting battery together for emergency starting as previous mentioned.
Have you found a convertor to change the 110v ac when you plug in to 12v dc? This should have your coach wiring in it for 110v ac and 12v dc. Normally breakers for 110v, fuses for 12v.
I did see not very old unit that did not have a convertor so it had a automotive battery charger hooked up to the 110v ac plug to charge the coach batteries.
While you are investigating the wiring you might want to ensure that all of your electrical is fused. I recently found out that the 3 way fridge in our Itasca was powered directly off on of the constant duty solenoids with no fuse in line. This was a 10 gauge wire so it could have caused quite a fire. Looked like it came from the factory that way.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadman View Post
One of your solenoids should be for house battery charging, the other for connecting the house and starting battery together for emergency starting as previous mentioned.
Have you found a convertor to change the 110v ac when you plug in to 12v dc? This should have your coach wiring in it for 110v ac and 12v dc. Normally breakers for 110v, fuses for 12v.
I did see not very old unit that did not have a convertor so it had a automotive battery charger hooked up to the 110v ac plug to charge the coach batteries.
While you are investigating the wiring you might want to ensure that all of your electrical is fused. I recently found out that the 3 way fridge in our Itasca was powered directly off on of the constant duty solenoids with no fuse in line. This was a 10 gauge wire so it could have caused quite a fire. Looked like it came from the factory that way.
The dual charging and emergency start is a function of the same solenoid. Look at the diagram again. The second solenoid may be either a power disconnect or an add-on starter solenoid.

As for your fridge, Winnebago has for many years run the heavy gage wire through a circuit breaker on its way to the fridge. Yours may not be direct, you just haven't located the breaker. Or a PO did a no-no and wired it direct. But it did have circuit protection from the factory.
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:35 AM   #32
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converter

Where do they usually house the converter, would it be in the area where the plug is located? I know where the generator line goes to and where the 30 amp plug plugs into to deliver house electricity.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:24 PM   #33
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The convertor is usually inside the coach so the circuit breakers and/or fuses can be accessed. Mine is in the cabinet that the water tank is in and below the closet.
My coach actually has 3 solenoids, one by the alternator, and 2 behind the batteries. Two switches on the dash.

To figure out if you have a convertor or battery charger take a voltage reading on the coach battery then plug the cord in to 110v and see if the reading at the battery rises. Should go from around 12.5 vdc to around 13.8 vdc. If the voltage rise but the a/c or other 110 vac item works you might just have a separate battery charger.
The only items that run on 110vac in my coach are the fridge, ac, and the microwave. Everything else is 12 vdc.
If you can take some interior photos we might be able to spot the convertor.

You may want to replace those circuit breakers mounted by your solenoids. They are not waterproof and may have corrosion in them. You can bend the crimps back on the metal housing and look at them. If you replace them with the same seal the joint between the plastic and metal with some silicone. This will help them last longer but makes them only water resistant, not waterproof. I prefer to remove these and replace with a water proof inline ATC fuse holder.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:45 AM   #34
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Found the converter/charger

Well after some Sherlock Holmes investigating I found the converter. It was located under the bed frame. It is a TU-740-2 converter/charger. On the DC fuse panel I also found 2 blown 15 amp fuses. I am finding some weird things happening with the coach lights. I had the cab front lights and one side of the coach working, the lights came on and it was great. I did not have any lights working in the overhead light leading to bed/hallway or the lights in the bedroom and on one side of the coach. I went in to eat turning off all lights and when I went back out I tried to turn the lights that were working on but they would not. Now the lights in the hallway and in the bedroom worked still no light on one side of the coach. Does this sound like a converter issue maybe heating up and knocking out certain circuits? How do I properly test the converter to see if it is functioned correctly?
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:15 AM   #35
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If your converter is putting out 13-15 vdc than it's working good enough most likely. Eventually "if" you get this all figured out than you may want to get a new converter (if yours is OEM)
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:55 AM   #36
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I thinking along the same lines, should this be the same 30 amp that I have or can I go up to 50. I am assuming 30 amp because that is the fuse amp on the dc fuse block.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:16 AM   #37
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IMO I don't think that you need a 50 amp unless your putting more stuff into it that's going to demand more power. Just up date your 30 amp to a newer model. I might be wrong ,if so someone will chime in.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:28 AM   #38
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I have a generator question. The generator has always worked since I got it and have been running it to supply 120 to the coach. Yesterday I went out to start it and just heard some fast clicking. I pulled off the cover and it appears to be coming from the solenoid. The starter on the generator does not appear to be turning just because I do not hear it. It sounds like a car that battery is low and just clicks. I started to clean some lines, grounds specifically which seemed clean but cleaned them up anyways. The solenoid is a 4 terminal, large post on the outside and 2 smaller in the middle. Looking at diagrams one appears to be for the start switch. The battery appears to be connected to the right side of the solenoid. How do I go about testing this to see if it is the solenoid that is causing problems? I have ready that sometimes the piston will get at the top cycle and cause problems in starting but I would think that it would make a sound like it wants to engage but just not turn the motor over.
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:28 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by jsprving View Post
I have a generator question. The generator has always worked since I got it and have been running it to supply 120 to the coach. Yesterday I went out to start it and just heard some fast clicking. I pulled off the cover and it appears to be coming from the solenoid. The starter on the generator does not appear to be turning just because I do not hear it. It sounds like a car that battery is low and just clicks. I started to clean some lines, grounds specifically which seemed clean but cleaned them up anyways. The solenoid is a 4 terminal, large post on the outside and 2 smaller in the middle. Looking at diagrams one appears to be for the start switch. The battery appears to be connected to the right side of the solenoid. How do I go about testing this to see if it is the solenoid that is causing problems? I have ready that sometimes the piston will get at the top cycle and cause problems in starting but I would think that it would make a sound like it wants to engage but just not turn the motor over.
The solenoid is clicking because the heavy starter draw, breaks the bad connection.

First make sure the battery is good.

Then check ground wire to the generator, chassis ground to the house battery, then both battery connections.

Getting it clicking for 15 seconds and then feel all the connections, for a warm one.

You want to check the circuit breaker, near the battery positive cable, also.
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Old 10-19-2016, 04:18 PM   #40
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With the engine running getting 14.39 volts to 3 terminals. Battery line and the s and I terminals. When I hit the start the voltage drops on s terminal to below 1 volt but voltage to left large terminal, non battery side shows the 14.39 volts. Sound like a ground? I will check.is the ground one of these wires.
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:19 PM   #41
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There should be a ground strap around the base of the unit to the frame. check the ground above the solenoid the green wire also. are the battery connections clean? Have you tried to jump the solenoid?
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:32 PM   #42
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I put a wire across the large posts, nothing happened.
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