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Old 08-30-2016, 04:16 PM   #1
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1985 Class A electrical wiring

Here goes. New to rving. I was given an 1985 honey 27'. P30 chassis with 454 engine. They were having a battery draining issue and got tired of trying to figure it out, good news for me. They decided to connect everything to 1 battery, I am connecting it to 2 a starter and house both 12v batteries. I am trying to figure which wires go where. In tracing the wires I found something that seems wierd to me. I have 2 isolators on firewall. In drawings I have seen on starter battery connected to one side and starter on the other with the middle connection going to alternator. Mine has the middle running to the ignition switch and spliced to a pink line that goes thru engine harness and connects to distributor. Does the line running from middle connection belong connected to ignition switch or should that go alternator? The other isolator is connected to emergency button on dash. Does the line running from middle connection belong connected to ignition switch or should that go to alternator? I have pics if needed.
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:24 PM   #2
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Pictures are priceless!
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:45 PM   #3
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Isolator pics

Hopefully this works.
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:50 PM   #4
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Click;

Post reply > scroll to manage attachments> browse > upload
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:57 PM   #5
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The white wire is the one going to ignition switch spliced to a pink line going to distributor.
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:02 PM   #6
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Wiring

I will post a drawn pic of wires and locations as I traced them.
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:29 PM   #7
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Hand drawn as I traced the wires

Hand drawn wiring as I traced the wires
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:34 PM   #8
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Hand drawn as I traced the wires

Hand drawn as I traced the wires.
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:31 AM   #9
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Still looking but I think;

You're adding back a house battery. I'm sure it originally had both house and chassis batteries.

The house battery will connect to Chassis battery through the one isolator when the emergency switch is held.

The house battery will only go to some places when the ignition switch is on. The house battery will go to other places all the time.

Do you have a converter? Is everything working?
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:59 AM   #10
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converter

Yes I am adding in a house battery(deep cycle). I do not have a converter. I have a plug in for the 110 from the generator for house electric or camp site plugin. On the lower isolator should the middle wire be running to the alternator instead of the ignition switch? I am confused why it is spliced to a wire on the ignition switch that goes to the distributor. The other issue I see is from what I read if I have power connected to one side/or both sides the middle connection should not be reading any voltage with engine off. If I have my battery connected to one side and take a reading on my volt meter (one terminal to power side of isolator and other terminal to middle connection of isolator I get a reading of 12.9 volts which is the battery voltage. I am thing this should be at zero with the engine not running. With a voltage showing I am getting constant voltage to the distributor even when the engine is off because of the slice at the ignition switch.
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:50 PM   #11
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After re-reading; If you are hooking up to the positive cable on the side and there is ground present (engine off) at the center you would read 12-13vdc.

The isolator gets the ground from the firewall. The two large post should be "open" with the center wire off or no voltage present.

It should be easy enough to check. Just take the large cables off and apply 12 volts to the center and you might even here the relay energize. Then measure the resistance and check for a short between the large posts.

Are you sure you don't have a "converter"? This takes 120 and supplies the 13-15 VDC for your batteries to charge.

An "inverter" takes battery voltage and makes 120 VAC.

Forgive me if you know all of this. Just trying to clear things up.


Also; it looks like your isolators are set up to go from right to left on the bottom isolator (furthest from fuse) and left to right on the other one. It doesn't really matter except for troubleshooting purposes. The top two black things look like auto resettable fuses to me but I'm not positive.




Good luck. It looks like you're going about it the right way.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:40 PM   #12
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Does it make sense to have a wire spliced to another that goes to the distributor. That means a constant electrical supply whenever the battery is attached even though the car is not Running? I am wondering if that is where the battery Drain was coming from. I have seen a hookup that goes to an empty fuse location that only is active when the ignition is turned to the on position.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:50 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jsprving View Post
....Does it make sense to have a wire spliced to another that goes to the distributor. .....

I wouldn't think the distributor always has power. The point is, it doesn't matter where the 12vdc comes from. You just want power after you turn on the ignition.

If you use your meter in current mode (series hook up and probably 10amp max) you can stop guessing about "where" the draw is coming from and actually see it. Then just start pulling fuses or wires until it goes away.

How do you charge your batteries?

Did you test the isolators?

When you put the negative lead on the frame and the positive on the small post are you getting 12vdc with the ignition off?
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Old 09-01-2016, 08:24 AM   #14
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power to distributor

That does seem strange to me but doing a continuity test when the battery is hooked up voltage runs constantly to the distributor because the middle line on the isolator is spliced on the line at the ignition switch that runs to the distributor.

To tell you the truth I have not figured that out yet. I have tried to follow the lines to see where power comes back to the batteries but have not figured that out. I guess that is why I was thinking the middle isolator wire would run to the alternator and with starting battery on one side of isolator and house battery on the other side the wire connected to the middle connection on isolator would charge both batteries. So I may just connect it to the alternator and not an empty fuse location. I have traced a red line from the start switch to the alternator so that may be my power source. I have a lot of work to figure this out.

The way I tested it was putting the positive lead from meter on right post and negative on middle post and got my 12.69 voltage reading, this was with the ignition off. I did test putting the positive lead from meter on right post and negative on left post turned the ignition to on position but got no voltage reading. I would have thought I would have gotten a reading since the left terminal is where my starter wire is connected. I am not able to get the engine to crank when I turn the ignition switch which makes sense since I have to power getting to the left terminal.

I did not get a change yesterday and it may have to wait until Friday or weekend to work on this further. Thank you for your help to this point. I think once I get this figured out I will have a great RV.
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