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Old 06-07-2015, 05:47 PM   #15
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Very nice work so far! I love these older units!
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:01 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpony56hd View Post
It's factory set up, it had a propane furnace under the stove. The furnace was noisy and a gas hog, so I took it out. The hot water heater would only work while the engine is running, or for a short time after.
My furnace is noisy sometimes so I'll replace the motor in the near future. Mine intermittently lights, so I'll replace the sail switch too.

My bed will have about a 6" overhang on the three sides for a little toe room. Sounds like your water heater has the engine heated option; very nice to have hot water while on the road!

What do you use for heat? Portable electric heater(s), or did you install a wall heater?
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poriggity View Post
Very nice work so far! I love these older units!
Thanks! I gravitate towards the eclectic/old school/non-mainstream style in just about everything.
Plus, I see no reason to spend a fortune on a MH for my limited-use purpose. The only thing that would sway me towards a different unit would be if the GS doesn't do well towing my 23' jetboat. With the Banks Power Pack and 4-wheel disc brakes, hopefully that won't be an issue.
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Old 06-08-2015, 02:56 PM   #18
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My heater reference was about using engine heat after shut down as a heat source. Sorry I wasn't very clear about that. Our water heater is Gas/Electric only. We use a small electric unit sometimes, but many RV Parks frown on their use (crashes the system). We use a couple trick with the stove as needed when Boondocking. That subject always stirs up the carbon monoxide argument, but we have three Co2/propane detectors on board and they have never gone off. My generator running has set the rear one off and the engine running with the cover open has set them off so I know they work.
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Old 06-08-2015, 03:17 PM   #19
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Attacked my broken speedometer driven unit yesterday.
The unit is at the rear of the transmission and a real bear to get to, but I had already determined my problem was at the transmission. So: disconnect the driveshaft, disassemble and remove the drum style emergency brake unit and remove the tail shaft housing from the transmission. (NOW, I had talked to my neighbor who works in a truck repair shop, looked on Utube and everywhere else I could find, and was expecting to find, a plastic gear on the output shaft of the trans.) But, NO, the gear was steel and good, so the driven unit was still in the housing that I had removed. A closer look and low and behold it was bad and was removable Not the pressed in unit that I was led to believe. It is round with no tab or bracket to hold it in, it has a allen wrench type hex hole for the cable to fit in and to put an allen wrench in to remove it!! OH WELL that was FUN.
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:24 AM   #20
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OK, made some progress this weekend. Got the new power center in, all AC & DC wiring reconnected. Had a fun time finding a route for the AC, DC, and water conduit flex tubes under the floor for the right side. The grey water tank is directly below the shower, which is where I wanted to come up. There was a small area (about 3"X4") that was still within the shower wall. I was able to get all three 3/4" conduit flex tubes in there.
I just have to source 3/8" Pex and a couple fittings in order to run the water line. 3/8" Pex is difficult to find unless a 5' section will do, or you need 100'. Found a local plumbing supply that will sell by the foot and they carry fittings, hopefully they'll have the brass 90's.
The 10" memory foam mattress was delivered last week, and the water tank has been ordered. Had to go with a 40gal, would have preferred 45+, but have space constraints and don't want to shell out $$ for a custom tank. I chose a Trionic from PlasticMart.com, which has two 1.25" and two 0.5" fittings, and has 3/8" thick walls. Pricey at a little over $300 with shipping, but I'm not a fan of cheap, thin-walled tanks.
I should have the water line in tonight. I'll wait on mounting the pump and installing the new exterior water fill until I get the water tank.
I'll likely get the upper part of the bed platform installed tonight too.
Will try to post pics soon.
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Old 06-30-2015, 10:59 PM   #21
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I was able to run the water line behind the bathroom wall to the bathroom vanity. I T'd it into the cold water line there. I'm waiting for a 3/8" Pex brass plug for the right side to plug the T where the water pump feed previously ran. I couldn't find one locally so I had to order it. Glad I didn't have to go under the floor with the water line.


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Old 07-06-2015, 07:10 PM   #22
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Got the water tank today. Will have it and the hoses installed later this week.
Also loaded up on plumbing supplies: 1/2" and 3/8" Pex, lots of Pex fittings, about a dozen Pex/PB transition couplers.
Finally getting close.



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Old 07-12-2015, 09:35 PM   #23
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Replaced the kitchen faucet and installed a new valve on the Thetford Aqua Magic IV. Don't know how they both went bad, but it appears to be freeze damage. Strange since prior to purchasing the coach last Nov we checked the systems and the entire water system was loaded with RV antifreeze. PO must have put 10-12gal in the water tank and run it through all the lines. The screw-on cap on the faucet was split, and as soon as I connected water to the city feed the toilet was spraying water all over. Replacing the valve was a horrendously nasty job. Thetford claims you have to remove the toilet assy in order to replace the valve. Next time that won't happen. It's difficult, but can be done with the toilet in place.

Was able to fill the new water tank today. Powered up the pump and she has no leaks!
Now I just have to repair the soft spot in the floor so I can get the large section of bed platform, mattress, and the bedlift kit installed.
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:21 AM   #24
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The new bed is just about completed. Finally got the fill hose to stop leaking. Bought a new set of probes for the water tank, which are useless. I checked with the supplier and was told they probably wouldn't work with the new tank; the walls are 3/8" and likely too thick for the probes to seal. Great. Picked up a JAKmeter


Program it with the total useable volume of the water tank and it displays the remaining volume of water. Just reset it when you fill the tank. Installs on the suction side of the water pump. Glad I didn't drill any holes in the tank!!
Got the soft spot in the floor finished up too. I ordered CPES and the laminating epoxy from Rot Doctor. When I got everything cleaned up to apply the CPES, I discovered there was a small section where the wood was totally gone, the foam insulation was lightly covered with wood remnants and was discolored so it appeared to be a layer of wood. I decided to use some fiberglass fabric (two layers) over the area missing wood when I applied the laminating epoxy. Once that was fully cured, I used some regular epoxy resin and applied two more layers of fabric. It is strong enough to walk on now, but won't see much traffic since the spot is at the rear corner of the bed.
Got the large section of bed platform and the hinges installed, now just need to install the bedlift kit and get the mattress on it.
I still need to build the nightstands, and run electrical to both of them, but that part of the project will wait until later this year or next year. I'm a little burned out on working on this thing, and still have some small projects and some maintenance to complete this year. I don't think I'd ever do this kind of conversion on a non-basement model ever again.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:31 PM   #25
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Got the bedlift kit and mattress in tonight. It'll take a couple days for the mattress to fully decompress. I still need to build the night stands, but she's usable now.



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Old 07-23-2015, 01:17 AM   #26
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Sounds typical of most of my motorhome projects. They start out small and expand using up All of your Money and Patience. Looks good so far.
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:44 PM   #27
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I've gotten a few things done in the last couple weeks.
Replaced the furnace electrode assy and control board, and removed tons of mud-dauber nests - furnace runs quiet and heats well now. The daubers were in all of the chambers from the outside fresh air intake to the the burn chamber!

Installed the cheap carpet tiles I got from Home Depot; $80 shipped for two boxes of 10, 18"x18" self-adhesive tiles.

Got her all cleaned up today; all the tools out and the floor and upholstery vacuumed. Just have to get all the PO's stuff (mostly spares & such) out of the kitchen drawers, run the silverware through the dishwasher and get it in the moho and we'll be ready to use her the weekend after Labor Day.

Also ordered new curtains and bedding. My daughter will shorten up the curtains for us; far cheaper than buying short "RV curtains".

Installed a mesh mud-dauber guard on the furnace exhaust/fresh air intake as well.

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Old 08-30-2015, 09:29 PM   #28
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Excellent job. Looks great.
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