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Old 06-30-2017, 07:50 PM   #1
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1985 Holiday Rambler Presidential 33'

Just wanted to check in -- Gina here -- I'm new from south central Kentucky. My husband and I have started updating our 1985 Holiday Rambler Presidential 33' RV. We bought her a few years back but was unable to put her on the road at that time.

So far we have placed a new battery in the engine compartment. When investigating we noticed the cap on the gas tank was missing part of the plastic seal -- therefore all the gas we are assuming evaporated. When we added Octane Booster and Mystery Oil along with some gasoline into the gas tank it sounded as if it was going into a completely empty tank.

Next we put a new inline filter at the carburetor. With the help of starting fluid we finally got gas to the carburetor. She started and ran very well -- we let her run for about 5 minutes then cut her off. Now we can not get gas back to the carburetor again even with the starting fluid. We have added so far a total of 9 gallons of gasoline to the tank. The tank looks to be a 60 gallon size.

When we checked the brake fluid -- there was none in the master cylinder and there was a lot of rust there. We wiped the master cylinder out with a clean cloth as best we could. We then filled it with break fluid and we got a lot of air bubbles back when we pushed the break peddle to the floor slowly and released it. We have no breaks as of yet.

What I would like to know is this :
1. Is there any suggestions out there for getting the gasoline to the carburetor?

2. Do you think bleeding the lines will fix this problem?

Thank You -- Gina
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:19 PM   #2
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Welcome to IRV2 Gina and the old RV world.

1. Chances are most likely the fuel tank is steel and it has rust something fierce inside. This means best practices is to remove the tank and have it boiled out at a radiator repair shop. That should be followed with a sealer applied to the interior of the tank. I don't know which would be cheaper, cleaning and sealing the tank or buying a replacement. The fuel lines are a combination of steel (rust) and rubber (rot). If you don't replace them before you head down the road you have a very good chance of enjoying the view from the wrong end of a big tow truck.

2. Everything I said about steel (rust) goes double for the brakes. Best practices demands that the brake hydraulic system components be replaced, lines, master cylinder, all wheel cylinders.

RVing is no fun when the motor and brake problems are a constant issue. Most of us attempt to do the major stuff right because getting there is a big part of the RV life. You will see lots of cliches about the journey is the destination. It's not just a cliche. Mechanical issues are part and parcel of the pleasure/aggravation of our world.

It doesn't matter if you are like me, tight budget do it yourselfer, or someone with means. R (repairs) V (vent) is the life we've chosen.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:23 AM   #3
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I agree with previous poster, brakes are first, as the RV MUST stop. Engine is a close second, as the RV MUST go when you need it to.

Some systems are more simple than people want to believe. Let's start with your brakes.

An empty master cylinder is not normal. That brake fluid is not an open system, it is a closed system. That means that even with some brake problems (bad brake shoes or pads) the fluid should still be tight.

If the master cylinder was empty as you suggested, and air came out of the brake lines as you said, then bleeding the brakes are absolutely necessary. But even before you do that, you must determine where the brake fluid went.

Also, there are frequently two separate circuits in a brake system, most often a front right and rear left, and a front left and rear right. This way a broken brake line will still allow you to stop one more time.

If the entire cylinder was empty, then you have a leak in both circuits. A leak in that fluid system will potentially kill you, or someone else.

You should learn all you can, or get a professional to thoroughly examine every component from brake master cylinder to all brake lines to the flex lines at the axles to the wheel cylinders or calipers at each wheel. On an old system with rust and leaks in both circuits, it may be easier to simply replace each piece, then you know all the bit and pieces are intact. Your call.

Still, you need to find all the leaks before you bleed the brakes, or you will wind up bleeding them again after anyway.

As for the engine getting gas, you may have a fuel pump or fuel line fault. Again, that tank should not have been bone dry. Even with a missing gasket, the fuel is not likely to evaporate completely dry. There is no air flow, so minimal evaporation is likely, especially for just a gasket. From what you wrote, there was a cap, and most likely a fuel door.

I believe again, you most likely have a leak. Look for it. Perhaps you are just vapor locked in that an air bubble is at the fuel pump, causing it to not pump fuel, but you may also have a leak in the fuel lines, that allows the gas to run out, and the fuel pump to pull in air instead of gas.

Again, here the leak detection is first.

All that I have said here does not disagree with what the previous poster wrote. You may have a big repair ahead of you.

Primarily, I would say that a very thorough inspection has got to be first. Every rusty or potential leaky component needs to be checked out very carefully, to see if it is serviceable, or needs replacing. While replacing all the components may seem expensive, if you have enough compromised components, and piece it together and have a failure, and piece it together, and have another failure, and piece it together, after a year or two of this you may it might have been easier and even cheaper to do it from the start in total.

OF course, you may also only have one bad component in each section, and will save money that way. Only a great inspection and testing will tell you.

Good luck.
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Old 07-05-2017, 11:58 PM   #4
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Thank you both for your information. I can see we have a huge task ahead of us. I will update as we make progress.
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Old 07-06-2017, 07:44 PM   #5
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Question on Batteries

I also have another question to ask.

Do you have to have all three batteries hooked-up for levelers - gauges (gages) and electric fuel pump to work?

Thanks,
Gina Wylie
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Old 07-07-2017, 04:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina Wylie View Post
I also have another question to ask.

Do you have to have all three batteries hooked-up for levelers - gauges (gages) and electric fuel pump to work?

Thanks,
Gina Wylie
Engine gauges and the fuel pump should work on the chassis battery only. Levelers (AFAIK) are on the house batteries.
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