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Old 10-04-2015, 06:00 PM   #1
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1988 Itasca Sunflyer - Exterior Mods

Neighbor and I started to get rid of the ugly mauve /blue/and brown color of the RV. So far it's turning out just as planned had to make some changes but not bad for about 8 hrs of work so far. The brown striping will be covered with green paint as you can probably tell we are doing a Seahawk Theme Should have the green paint completed Tuesday and everything eles completed by next weekend.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:27 AM   #2
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looking good octane !!!----look forward to seeing more pix...
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:57 AM   #3
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Looking good. Are you going to be able to paint directly over the old decals/stripes? Mine were too faded and cracked and I had to take mine off before painting.

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Old 10-05-2015, 09:35 AM   #4
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Must be in the air...
I am going to paint the front strip brown on mine. I will make it a little wider I will post a before and a after. This is it. I have re-moved it all ready. Did either of you prime it first?
looks good,
Tim
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronspradley View Post
Looking good. Are you going to be able to paint directly over the old decals/stripes? Mine were too faded and cracked and I had to take mine off before painting.

ronspradley
Painted right over them so far so good
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spritz View Post
Must be in the air...
I am going to paint the front strip brown on mine. I will make it a little wider I will post a before and a after. This is it. I have re-moved it all ready. Did either of you prime it first?
looks good,
Tim
Yes Tim, I primed before painting.

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Old 10-06-2015, 04:52 AM   #7
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Got it sanded yesterday / last night. I will prime it in the AM depending if we had any dew overnight. Never done this before so it will be a crap shoot. I just hope it don't run.
Thanks,
Tim
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:44 AM   #8
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You should use a good cleaner made to get off any silicone or oils and grease. Before primer/paint. And start with a light, misting coat. Then next coats can be a little heavier. I had to buy another spray gun because the gun that I used to paint a jeep, pickup, boat, 18 wheeler cab, 1958 Mobile Scout canned ham trailer, another pickup, that gun was 30 years old and I paid 20 dollars from Sears. It was wore out. I bought a Eastwood HVLP, it uses only 10 psi at the gun. With two tips, 1.2 for paint and 1.8 for primer. Worked fine. As I am sure you know, it is the prep that takes all the time and effort. The painting is the reward for all the previous hard work.

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Old 10-06-2015, 08:13 AM   #9
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Most of the painting is on the outsides of the 2 engine covers. I wiped it all down with Paint thinner? I will do it again before I spray. Will that be enough?
Tim
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:18 AM   #10
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I would not recommend paint thinner, it has oils in it. Use lacquer thinner. And if wax has ever been near the area you are painting, I would use the cleaner made to get off silicone before paint. I bought all my supplies, including paint, at Car Quest, but any auto paint supplier will have this stuff.

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Old 10-07-2015, 07:24 AM   #11
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ronspradley,
I got you reply after I got it painted yesterday, I just used the paint thinner, I think it will look good when I re-do the 2 runs
I hate to say this but after several hours I started to clean the windshield, I was standing on the bumper to do so and before I new it my knee was up against the new paint yes it marred the paint.
Besides all that I think it looks nice and better than it was. I picked out the spray paint and it is pretty dang close.
How do you do the wet sanding? then do you re-paint?
Would I want to do a Clear Coat after I re-paint? Being on the front end I'm worried that bugs, and chips will occur.
Thank you and the others for your help.
Tim
ps how do you save this so It don't dis-appear? I have started to just hit the Submit Reply in stead of Preview and I haven't lost one.
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:36 PM   #12
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Wet sand is using a dry-wet sandpaper (available at auto stores that sell auto paint/supplies) and it uses a very high number (fine) sandpaper like 3000 grit. It is used to even out the finish coat, then compound, then polish, then wax. That is not what you are looking for. You will need more aggressive sand paper, like 220 grit or so, to get out the runs and blue jean marks. Then more primer, sand, then re-spray with your finish coat. The paint coming up when you remove masking tape is probably caused by not thoroughly sanding to the edge where the tape is or by improperly removing said tape. When removing tape, fold the edge of the tape back over itself, then pull tape off. Both of these will help with the paint coming off when removing tape. Clear coat will help with physical protection from bugs and chips, and also with more UV protection. Not really necessary just to protect the stripes you repainted, but will certainly not hurt. If you clear coat after paint has dried, like yours now, you will need to lightly sand to provide a bite for the clear coat. I usually use 0000 steel wool, because it is flexible enough to get into the nooks and crannies and right to the very edge of the tape. I did not clear coat when I painted my MH. I could always do it later if I see the need. Now this is just my opinion and it is worth what you paid for it. Hope that helps.

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Old 10-07-2015, 12:53 PM   #13
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Very nice. I'm thinking of doing my Mirada next spring.
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:31 AM   #14
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Octane, Nice job on the paint, looking very good, I also like the shop your in MH is in .
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