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Old 05-04-2012, 08:25 AM   #155
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I learned not to do that when I was in the AF working on jet engines. Then again, jet engines have gaskets almost everywhere so you must put all the bolts in first and torque in a stagger pattern. As far as me not tightening down that nut on the starter, that's not like me. I was probably in a huge hurry as always. I don't get many opportunities to work on her.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:42 AM   #156
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Well... Have we got you out in the bonnies yet?
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #157
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I don't believe anything I hear and only half of what I see, but I don't make stuff up.
This is from "Popping" every time it was supposed to and didn't.
I kinda like it. It'll make it easier to "stick" a wire if I need to.

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Old 05-04-2012, 10:03 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
I don't believe anything I hear and only half of what I see, but I don't make stuff up.
This is from "Popping" every time it was supposed to and didn't.
I kinda like it. It'll make it easier to "stick" a wire if I need to.
Use an alligator clip.
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:48 AM   #159
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I bent it sideways and still couldn't get it to "POP" like it's supposed to.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:37 PM   #160
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Dunner is CORRECT...the light bulb will stay lit until the battery dies. It will NEVER act like a fuse or melt.

Here's why: A bulb has what is known as positive resistance. What this means is that as the metal filament heats up and produces light, the resistance of the filiment increases. Thus, it doesn't matter what is between the negative side of the bulb and ground (remember the other side is connected directly to the positive battery post). As long as that resistance is low, and a starting motor would be low, the bulb will light but will self limit the current flow through itself. The ONLY WAY to increase the current through the bulb would be to INCREASE THE BATTERY VOLTAGE.

I use this trick myself for finding shorts, where the bulb burns brightly when it should be dim or dark, by measuring the voltage drop at various components downstream of the bulb...where the voltage is lowest, there's your shorted component. But it wouldn't do much good in a starting circuit because it's hard to find a bulb that draws 400A at 12V.

I also use this trick with fuses that repeatedly blow. Just replace the fuse with a light bulb and then measure voltage downstream...lowest voltage point is the short.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:45 PM   #161
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Wasn't trying to be a SA, just had to see for myself.
Just like putting a test light across the mega amp battery + & –. It won't blow.
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:55 PM   #162
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Well guys, I made another attempt at starting the beast. I've concluded that my mini van does not have what it takes to charge and jump this monster. Unfortunately I don't have anything else, not even a battery charger. So I'm dead in the water until I can borrow someone's tractor trailer (sarcasm) to jump it.
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:17 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
The test light bulb will burn out instantly when the wire causing the short is reconnected unless you protect the test light with a fuse or circuit breaker.
WoW!

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Old 05-04-2012, 05:21 PM   #164
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No it won't. A light bulb has resistance. Resistance is not a ground. Common Sense 101.
If there is a dead short to ground the circuit (the bulb with two wires attached) will be grounded by said dead short thereby completing the circuit and lighting the bulb. You do not engage the starter when using this technique.



The reason a bulb lights is because the filament has a high resistance causing it to heat up. If it is placed in series with a low resistance device like a starter, the voltage drop across each device will be proportional to the relative resistance (Ohms Law). That means that the starter will not have sufficient voltage or amperage available to enable it to spin. A starter requires hundreds of amps to turn an engine. Let's say the bulb has a resistance of 6 ohms. Regardless of the resistance of the starter, the combined resistance in the circuit will be more than 6 ohms. That means that the max current flow is 2 amps assuming a 12V circuit. Hardly enough for the starter.

Electricity 101
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:21 AM   #165
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The test light bulb will burn out instantly when the wire causing the short is reconnected unless you protect the test light with a fuse or circuit breaker.
The key words are "when the wire causing the short is reconnected".

If it melted the battery post, it sure as heck is going to burn out the bulb unless = the short is not reconnected = and the bulb in the test light previously burnt out and was replaced with a bulb that exceeds design standards (old men need a brighter light) then I predict the extra heat will DEFORM the test light because an automatic resetting circuit breaker should have been installed in line between the test prod and the clip end of the wire because the larger bulb has exceeded the design capacity of the Snap-On Tool
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:12 AM   #166
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Why don't you come right out and say "DEFORMED" Dunner's light, Dwight? My light "DEFORMED" because I let it burn at the rated VOLTAGE for 15-20 minutes. It was not designed to burn at the rated VOLTAGE for 15-20 minutes. I "reconnected" a 34 amps load to the bulb and it just lit. Why didn't that burn it out? It's no different than connecting it directly to the negative post of the battery. The bulb is rated at 12V and draws ~1.6A.

Re-read post #160. I can re-type it real slow if that will help.

Ron, did you get your motor started?
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:34 PM   #167
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Why don't you come right out and say "DEFORMED" Dunner's light, Dwight? My light "DEFORMED" because I let it burn at the rated VOLTAGE for 15-20 minutes. It was not designed to burn at the rated VOLTAGE for 15-20 minutes. I "reconnected" a 34 amps load to the bulb and it just lit. Why didn't that burn it out? It's no different than connecting it directly to the negative post of the battery. The bulb is rated at 12V and draws ~1.6A.

Re-read post #160. I can re-type it real slow if that will help.

Ron, did you get your motor started?
You guys must really be into your discussion. I covered that a few posts back. I jumped by RV using my mini van. It charged the battery a little but not enough. I guess my van's alternator doesn't have what it takes to get the old girl charged. Unfortunately I don't have a larger vehicle. So unless I can locate someone willing to let me borrow their Kenworth to jump it I'm sort of dead in the water. Thus, I don't know if my rebuilt starter is going to fix the problem. I don't know what to do now. Although, in the mean time I would like to find the proper firing order for her. I looked it up on Google but I got several different orders. I went with the one that seemed to be most popular. What is the magic number to locate the FO? Engine serial number (if there is one)? I can't use the VIN number because this motor is not original. How does one know? There are what, 64 possible combinations? I'm pretty certain what I have isn't right because when it did turn over I had some fuel spitting out of the carb. I know that's not good. Wrong direction!
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:08 PM   #168
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Some motors have the firing order molded into the intake manifold. What motor do you have. I forgot, or never new.
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