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Old 05-13-2012, 11:08 AM   #225
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Wow, so much good advice. My house batteries are two 6's. The main is a 12v. The neg cable of the main bat is bolted to the motor. You're saying I should take that off and bolt it to the frame somewhere? Should the neg cable on the main battery be separate from the neg cable on the house battery? It always ran fine like that before. It sounds like I may still have a bit o'work to do yet. I'll get to it on Monday. Thanks guys, keep it coming.
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:13 AM   #226
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You're saying I should take that off and bolt it to the frame somewhere? Should the neg cable on the main battery be separate from the neg cable on the house battery?
I don't think it matters how the ground cables are routed for the chassis battery, as long as the engine is grounded to the chassis/frame.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:24 PM   #227
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You only want one(1) 6v house battery Negative post going to ground. The other Negative post goes to the Positive post of the other 6v battery as in Dave's picture. It doesn't hurt for the Negative posts to go to both the chassis and the motor. Most do, some way or another.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:42 PM   #228
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Ok.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:35 PM   #229
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If you look back to the "big three upgrade" link you'll see a increase in cable size for both + and - cables.Also a increase in the - cable for the engine to battery and engine to chassis.With the engine battery the way I did this was to use a dual terminal battery.(side/and top post)The side posts for the original wiring and the top posts for the added "big three upgrade" with adding in a secondary engine to chassis ground.

The whole point of this is increased continuity with a back up system.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:59 PM   #230
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Ron,

High resistance is probably what's cooking your battery terminals. You should have your chassis and house batteries grounded to the chassis, then run a secondary ground strap from the engine block to the chassis. The engine and trans is mounted on rubber and can not conduct 12 volt electricity properly without wiring it this way.
High resistance won't cook your battery terminals. It may cook the wires but not the terminals. Also depends where the high resistance is.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:02 PM   #231
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I keep forgetting to take my meter to the RV. As an electrician that's the first thing I look for.
I mean no disrespect and apologize if this hurts your feelings but if I were you I would be embarrassed to call myself an electrician.

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Old 05-14-2012, 12:38 AM   #232
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High resistance won't cook your battery terminals. It may cook the wires but not the terminals. Also depends where the high resistance is.

I have to disagree with this- if the high resistance is at the post/connection, it absolutely will heat up the post to the point of cooking it, if the current draw is high enough. Power is what burns the terminal; power = I squared times R (sorry, no math symbols on this keyboard). The battery cable will in fact be cooler than the post in this instance, since there is a voltage drop between post and connection and the wire has lower resistance than the post connection.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:59 AM   #233
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I mean no disrespect and apologize if this hurts your feelings but if I were you I would be embarrassed to call myself an electrician.

I am!!
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:00 AM   #234
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Sometimes when a person works on something so long a level of frustration sets in and they just want it fixed. They become blinded to what is before their eyes.
Many times another person will look at the situation and see the problem immediately.
This happened many times when I was a mechanic and also when I supervised the mechanics.

It is unusual that the battery terminal is melting, this would seem to indicate a poor connection there.

Is there a mobile mechanic in the area you could come and have him look at your MH? Might be worth the service call just to have him look at it.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:25 AM   #235
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Ron, there a lot of people here that want to help you. We need details of everything.

Wire for wire of how each battery is wired. What battery posts are going to ground. Where does each positive post go. What is hooked to the starter motor. Are you getting bored with this project? Once things start falling into place, your attitude with change and you will want to get it moving on it's own. Work with use. None of these meaningless one liners.

While you're tinkering with other stuff, charge the house batteries with your van.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:25 PM   #236
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Once when I was young, I had a car that wouldn't start. Got a friend to come over and try to jump start it to no avail. While sitting there, an older gent stopped by and told us to try again. He noticed some heating at the NEG post and a tiny amount of smoke. Then he took the NEG connector off flipped it then started the car saying " bad connection" and left. I was dumbfounded.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:52 PM   #237
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That may have worked, but the connectors and posts are tapered. I would have been making a much smaller contact patch.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:54 PM   #238
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Ron, do you own a smartphone? If so, could you record a video of what you are doing and post it so we could see?
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