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Old 05-16-2012, 05:58 PM   #267
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Hello... the same thing happened to me... RV would barely turn over, then would work with a jump but then not even with a jump or a charger.... got a new battery and fires right up... you can take the battery out and take it to an auto parts store and ask them to test it to see if it holds a load... call first to make sure the one you go to does that... then you will know for sure and make the wife happy. My son just did that with his suv battery wanted to make sure first it was battery and not something else. If the auto parts store is too expensive for a new battery or does not have the right one you need then go elsewhere to purchase.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:01 PM   #268
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C'mon guys, don't go nuts over little ol' me. I'm nobody to get unravelled over. I do appreciate all everyone has need doing for me...trust me. I would not have gotten this far (alone, no less) without everyone's help. If I ever do get the old girl running again I'm going to make a decal for the rear end that says, "iRV2!"
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:48 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
Just like this schematic from the manufacturer of my battery distribution center.
It shows the solenoid that interconnects my batteries on the left, but it doesn't
show what energizes it. DUH!
It doesn't show the wiring to trigger the solenoid because that is installed by the manufacturer of the RV. The schematic shows the wiring as it was built. RV schematics are notoriously sketchy, granted. But the starter is about as simple a circuit as they get. You folks are painting me as the bad guy. Ron has been told how to trouble shoot this and fix it a dozen times. The ball is in his court. What's the old saying. "You can lead a horse to water!"

Peace and Love!!
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:50 PM   #270
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Rather than make a decal , join the site and get one to boot
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f1/irv2-s...rs-113379.html

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Old 05-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #271
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I'm currently cash-strapped and doing this RV thing on a shoestring budget. It's more like a sewing thread budget, to be honest. It's in our budget to replace the RV battery but the wife won't allow it unless I know for certain that the problem with the neg wire has been resolved so that the new battery isn't fried.
If you really want to help Eddie, maybe he takes PayPal.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:18 PM   #272
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Rather than make a decal , join the site and get one to boot
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f1/irv2-s...rs-113379.html

D
I AM a member. I never got a sticker. Gee...I guess I'm not worthy.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:19 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Foy

It doesn't show the wiring to trigger the solenoid because that is installed by the manufacturer of the RV. The schematic shows the wiring as it was built. RV schematics are notoriously sketchy, granted. But the starter is about as simple a circuit as they get. You folks are painting me as the bad guy. Ron has been told how to trouble shoot this and fix it a dozen times. The ball is in his court. What's the old saying. "You can lead a horse to water!"

Peace and Love!!
It's not that I don't understand anything. I just don't get much time to work on it. Hopefully I'll be out there tomorrow.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:46 AM   #274
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Foy View Post
It doesn't show the wiring to trigger the solenoid because that is installed by the manufacturer of the RV. The schematic shows the wiring as it was built. RV schematics are notoriously sketchy, granted. But the starter is about as simple a circuit as they get. You folks are painting me as the bad guy. Ron has been told how to trouble shoot this and fix it a dozen times. The ball is in his court. What's the old saying. "You can lead a horse to water!"


Peace and Love!!

[moderator edit]


Ron-it isn't a repair issue.It's a miss wired issue.Seems you have a cold hot and ground on the same terminal and once you energize the starting circuit it would fry the ground.Btw-NO MORE trial and error.So far your lucky the battery hasn't blow up.It's the only thing that would have that much power to fry the ground terminal.Ron pictures during disassemble speaks volumes as marking or tagging everything.Any of those old Ford type of solenoids generally has markings on them as the solenoid on the starter.The Ford type have one hot on one side from the battery(large terminal) and one hot on the other side going to the starter solenoid.Then two small terminals that activate the Ford style solenoid to pass power from the battery threw it to the starter.

Now guys-there are members who have other responsibilities and for them the "fix" isn't as fast as the net postings on the forum.Soooooo let's let Ron get sometime to spend on this.In fact Ron run with what you got when you have time and post what you found.Guys the normal run of a thread is just that and the next post should be from Ron on his progress.Really don't want someone in the future reading this and because it just fill with page after page of best guesses lose interest in the topic and maybe in the site as well.

Oh yeah guys-remember EVERYTHING you post has the possibility of because of search engines showing up on the world wide net.EVERYTHING!!.Some food for thought huh.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:14 AM   #275
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Originally Posted by fleamarketer

[moderator edit]

Ron-it isn't a repair issue.It's a miss wired issue.Seems you have a cold hot and ground on the same terminal and once you energize the starting circuit it would fry the ground.Btw-NO MORE trial and error.So far your lucky the battery hasn't blow up.It's the only thing that would have that much power to fry the ground terminal.Ron pictures during disassemble speaks volumes as marking or tagging everything.Any of those old Ford type of solenoids generally has markings on them as the solenoid on the starter.The Ford type have one hot on one side from the battery(large terminal) and one hot on the other side going to the starter solenoid.Then two small terminals that activate the Ford style solenoid to pass power from the battery threw it to the starter.

Now guys-there are members who have other responsibilities and for them the "fix" isn't as fast as the net postings on the forum.Soooooo let's let Ron get sometime to spend on this.In fact Ron run with what you got when you have time and post what you found.Guys the normal run of a thread is just that and the next post should be from Ron on his progress.Really don't want someone in the future reading this and because it just fill with page after page of best guesses lose interest in the topic and maybe in the site as well.

Oh yeah guys-remember EVERYTHING you post has the possibility of because of search engines showing up on the world wide net.EVERYTHING!!.Some food for thought huh.
Very good point. As I said earlier, I'll be doing some work on it today now that the rain has stopped- WITH my meter! I'll post again tonight with the results.
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:18 PM   #276
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Seems you have a cold hot and ground on the same terminal and once you energize the starting circuit it would fry the ground..
Flea, don't see how you could do that without instant fireworks. IMHO.

Ron, we need to see exactly how you have wired everything between the starter and the battery to include the solenoid and all grounds.

Have you charged the battery?

I really want to help. Help us help you.

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Old 05-17-2012, 03:58 PM   #277
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Flea, don't see how you could do that without instant fireworks. IMHO.

Ron, we need to see exactly how you have wired everything between the starter and the battery to include the solenoid and all grounds.

Have you charged the battery?

I really want to help. Help us help you.

Really don't want to participate in this off topic subject,but how that "could" be miss-wired is after the Ford style solenoid where the hot isn't activated until it is key hot and then a melted ground connection.

We and Ron needs to concentrate on how it was wired before the swap because apparently this wasn't a issue before the swap and if during the course of trial and error if anything got damaged.Really no one being right or wrong,just a solution.

I am very surprised given what I have seen on this forum before that no one has posted they have the exact M/H or a RV mechanic hasn't posted the wiring harness.

I bring to the thread 40 yrs as a Auto mechanic.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:43 PM   #278
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Flea,
Are you mentioning the Ford solinoid in comparison to an AUX start relay? I only ask because I was of the understanding this is a GM P30 chassis with a 454 (carb version not TBI). Far as I know, ignition switch start signal goes directly to "S" terminal on starter solinoid. I believe stock B+ chassis battery cable goes direct to B+ on solinoid via Aux start relay (your ford reference?). Coach mfg might have installed a battery disconnect. Just want to understand your train of thought is all.

Dave
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:09 AM   #279
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Dave,your right my ref was to a type b with Aux solenoid.Battery side to the left and starter side(cold no power with key off to the right)Those you can jump across the terminals.Looks like this and the reason why I reference as I do is the old Ford's had a solenoid like it.


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Old 05-18-2012, 01:59 AM   #280
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Only one of the small terminals on the Ford solenoids is to activate it. The unit itself is grounded. The other small terminal is to bypass the ballast resistor or wire and give full 12 volts to the coil when the key is turned to the start position.
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