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Old 05-18-2012, 07:05 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleamarketer

Really don't want to participate in this off topic subject,but how that "could" be miss-wired is after the Ford style solenoid where the hot isn't activated until it is key hot and then a melted ground connection.

We and Ron needs to concentrate on how it was wired before the swap because apparently this wasn't a issue before the swap and if during the course of trial and error if anything got damaged.Really no one being right or wrong,just a solution.

I am very surprised given what I have seen on this forum before that no one has posted they have the exact M/H or a RV mechanic hasn't posted the wiring harness.

I bring to the thread 40 yrs as a Auto mechanic.
I'm very surprised as well. I guess I was hoping for exactly that. However, I AM pleased at the number of responses. I can't say the information so far hasn't helped me because it certainly has.

So...I did some tinkering with her yesterday. My meter tells me my battery has 12v without a load. The starter relay has 12v as well. I was not able to tell what my battery had with a load, or what the starter had, because I was alone and had nobody to turn the key while I held the meter on them. The battery needs to be replaced regardless. That'll be this weekend, hopefully. Since the battery has 12v and the relay has 12v it seems to me that something is not right with the starter. I'm going to replace that as well. If nothing else it will eliminate those as possibilities. I'm also replacing the battery terminal connectors. I currently have side mounts (which I have always hated) so I'm switching to top. I noticed when I hooked up the battery terminals (as best I could considering the neg is all deformed) it seemed to have a bit more juice going to the starter, which it should do. A glimmer of hope. So I thought if I connected my jumper cables to my van it may boost it just enough. Well, it did bring it up a little but not enough to start it. So I started the van hoping the extra push from alternator would do it. Curiously enough it went backwards! Suddenly I barely had enough juice to make the relay click. Now that is strange. Any ideas on this one? Or perhaps we should hold off on brainstorming until I replace the aforementioned items and see where that gets me.
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:53 AM   #282
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I'm alone as well, but you would be shocked or amazed at what I do to get some stuff done. I should probably be dead or in jail.

I thought you already replaced the starter, or at least tested it under your MH.

It "sounds" like the polarity is reversed if it made it worse hooked up to your van, but I think you would get a spark shower as soon as you hooked up the jumper cables. Don't know as I have never actually done that.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:02 AM   #283
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I'm alone as well, but you would be shocked or amazed at what I do to get some stuff done. I should probably be dead or in jail.

I thought you already replaced the starter, or at least tested it under your MH.

It "sounds" like the polarity is reversed if it made it worse hooked up to your van, but I think you would get a spark shower as soon as you hooked up the jumper cables. Don't know as I have never actually done that.
Absolutely confirms it's a mis-wiring issue.With starters and solenoids they either work or not and in some cases would be so shorted out inside would ruin a battery.Never turn in reverse.So to follow that logic,Ron I do question if it is.Which direction was it turning.Clockwise or counter clockwise??.

I don't suggest to shotgun parts on a repair unless you can test to see if those parts are the defect.Now Ron your right about the battery replacement with a melted terminal.The is something you can see as a effect,but not the cause.And because it was mis-wired there could be starter damaged.Once you get the starter out.You can have it tested.Most auto parts stores can counter test the starter.

But Ron,if those parts are defective and it wasn't a issue before the engine swap,it still sounds like result of the mis-wiring.Ron the job involves you tracing the wires to find the error.For you not to find that would put those replacement parts at risk.

You might want to have the alt tested too.Here it is a question of how much damage was done with things that are effected with the key hot/key turned to start.

The battery should test to 12.43.You can get a dual style battery with side posts and top posts.Once running it should read 14.2.You can get cheap a button test start that you alligator clip to the solenoid so you can alligator clip your meter to read while being by the battery alone.

Not reading back this whole thread,but have you tried to turn over the replacement engine by hand??.Use a socket on the front crank bolt and try to turn it over over one complete revolution.If for some reason the engine won't rotate,that certainly would fry the ground terminal,starter,alt,etc.We have seen the whole range of engine issues from used to rebuilt to new.So don't exclude that as a possibility.

Please update us as you find out more.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:36 AM   #284
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....

Not reading back this whole thread,but have you tried to turn over the replacement engine by hand??.Use a socket on the front crank bolt and try to turn it over over one complete revolution.If for some reason the engine won't rotate,that certainly would fry the ground terminal,starter,alt,etc.We have seen the whole range of engine issues from used to rebuilt to new.So don't exclude that as a possibility.

....
Maybe I have been misinterpreting his posts, but I have already brought this up at least three times without a satisfactory answer....
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:59 AM   #285
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I turned the motor prior to installing it. It turned easily. The motor is turning clockwise (looking at the motor from the front of it) by the starter.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:54 AM   #286
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I turned the motor prior to installing it. It turned easily. The motor is turning clockwise (looking at the motor from the front of it) by the starter.
Thanks, Ron; sorry to bug you, but I would suggest trying to turn it over now since it might be bound up on the auto trans/torque converter. Please?
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:29 AM   #287
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Thanks, Ron; sorry to bug you, but I would suggest trying to turn it over now since it might be bound up on the auto trans/torque converter. Please?
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:30 PM   #288
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Yep.A jammed starter on the flexplate would act like it is too.

Turn it backwards to see if the Bendix goes back.Sometimes you can hear it click back in place.

BTW Ron.Clockwise is correct rotation.

Still it is connect the dots logically.If your start is burned out or the Bendix is stuck out ask yourself why??.Was the root cause it not being wired correctly??.
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:31 PM   #289
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A lead acid battery reading 12.0 volts is essentially discharged. A fully charged battery with the surface charge flashed off will read 12.6 (2.1 volts per cell). Did you take any photos? Did you trace out the wires?


You said you jumped it from your van. What was the voltage at the RV batt with the van connected and running?
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:51 PM   #290
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Hopefully this information will assist you. It is a standard functional wiring diagram for a carburated GM 454. It also shows several of the items people have been talking about.

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Old 05-19-2012, 03:57 AM   #291
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Thumbs up

Dave-Wow,now your talking.That is just the best anyone could do.Very cool.Great post Dave!!.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:28 AM   #292
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Hopefully this information will assist you. It is a standard functional wiring diagram for a carburated GM 454. It also shows several of the items people have been talking about.

Dave
Very nice, Dave; even I can understand those diagrams!
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:44 AM   #293
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Thank you
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:13 AM   #294
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Ron -- I also have an 89 Southwind.
Could you share your wiring diagram?
Could you email it to me? HeidiLMichaels@aol.com

I'm also having problems starting my rig. Took my all of my batteries out over the winter and stored them (properly). Prior to putting it all back together, we charged the house batteries --- both dead. We brought the chassis battery to the RV -- but can't start it.

Do the house batteries have to be installed to have starting power?
I haven't bought the new ones yet. But we are thinking that maybe the house batteries run the switches -- and perhaps that's why we don't have starting power.
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