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Old 09-16-2011, 08:45 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeidiM
I have a 89 Southwind, with a 460. I could take pictures for you.
I also have a spare 429 sitting in my garage, and a 460 in one of my vehicles.
So if we have the same set up, I can help you with the brackets.

hmmm. I'm sure I do not have a smog pump on any of my engines....
It's worth a shot, I suppose. Looking at my motor I have the a/c at upper right, ps pump just below it, upper smog pump center top, alternator upper left, and smog pump lower left. I'm going to take another crack at it this morning.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:52 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cook elandan
Hey Ron,
Doing the same and little more with my 85 Elandan. I am able to pull my motor up and out of the doghouse and then out the passanger door. I did remove most of the front of the motor leaving the powersteering pump hanging on the frame. Also removed the transmission for replacement and improvement of a 4 speed.

For your question about the transmission if no other has offered any information. Did you disconnect the transmission and torque converter from the motor and support it with a chain or other support. Then you should be able to slide the motor about inch or so to clear the transmission motor studs. Then you should be able to pull it up through dog house or out the front, which ever way you are going with it. Then if you are doing anything with transmission, it will take the same route, or drop on floor and drag it out.

Have been following this thread and some others and taking lots of notes so when it go back together, have a lot of mods and inprovements to do to mine.

Thanks,
I cheated. Instead of removing the single center bolt on the two motor mounts I took out all the smaller bolts so that the mounts came out with the motor. Taking out the center bolt meant that I had to lift the motor about 4" to clear the other half of the mount before I could move the motor foreword. Removing the entire mount with the motor allowed me to immediately push the motor towards the radiator thus clearing the tranny. Now I just hope that I can get those bolt holes aligned when I get the motor back in.
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:05 AM   #59
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The motor is refenced from the front...
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:58 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeidiM View Post
I have a 89 Southwind, with a 460. I could take pictures for you.
I also have a spare 429 sitting in my garage, and a 460 in one of my vehicles.
So if we have the same set up, I can help you with the brackets.

hmmm. I'm sure I do not have a smog pump on any of my engines....
Heidi, I think Ron has a Chevy 454 motor, so your 460 Ford probably wouldn't help him.... I can locate an exploded diagram if he gives me a little time. We are right in the middle of moving from one stick house to another and it is sucking up all our time....
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:01 PM   #61
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Persistence pays off. I have all of the brackets where they should be. There's only so many different combinations. Now I'm ready to install the motor. Believe me, that's no easy task. I first have to get it in the RV via the driver's side door. Then I have to put the engine lift inside the RV, grab the motor, get the lift over the hole and drop her in...all by myself!
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:11 PM   #62
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Having worked on jet engines for 8 years I'm usually very thorough. However, I made a HUGE mistake yesterday. I wish I had a better excuse but it was mainly due to being rushed. I removed the accessory brackets off of the old motor and began putting them on the new motor. Ok, can anyone guess right here where I went wrong? I didn't take a picture of their setup first. I can't remember how they were. I have two on that I know are correct. But I still need to put on the brackets for the alt (sits high and right), upper smog pump (sit high and center), and lower smog pump ( sits low and right). This is standing at the rear of the motor looking foreword. I don't know if that is how you reference a motor but it's how you reference an aircraft. Would anyone happen to have a photo of this setup for a southwind? I know I think I have a better chance of seeing Jesus in my livingroom in a toga but I thought I'd give it a shot.
I hope a few exploded drawings and parts lists here and here will help; sorry, I can't produce Jesus, but He helped.

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Old 09-16-2011, 12:26 PM   #63
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Persistence pays off. I have all of the brackets where they should be. There's only so many different combinations. Now I'm ready to install the motor. Believe me, that's no easy task. I first have to get it in the RV via the driver's side door. Then I have to put the engine lift inside the RV, grab the motor, get the lift over the hole and drop her in...all by myself!
Ron, stop and take a breath! You have been working at top speed and now you might want to have some lunch, relax and look at what you have done so far... check to see that everything is tight and adjusted properly. I know that you have given yourself a deadline, but if you overlook something and the motor has to come back out, you will lose time. Just sayin'
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:40 PM   #64
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Ok, motor is in...mount bolts tight...now I'm hooking the detailed stuff up. I'm glad I labeled every vacuum line and hose...too many! But now I have an important question; before I installed it I attempted to find TDC. I used a super high-tech way, I held my finger over the plug hole. I know it has to be at least close. How do you find TDC exactly? I have several "marks" on my harmonic balancer. One is just a single line. Then I have 3 "dimples," if you will, on the front side of the balancer. The middle dimple (it could be called a hole) is where it ended up when air stopped coming out of the plug hole. I looked at a few timing pictures on some websites but I ended up even more confused when I was done reading them. The forums generically explained the marks but it was a moot point because one person mentioned that over time the balancers can move causing a false reading. Yup, that's just what I wanted to hear. So how about it, anyone one of a foolproof way of finding TDC that doesn't include opening my wallet? I would be grateful for any input.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:41 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by TitanicPilot
Ron, stop and take a breath! You have been working at top speed and now you might want to have some lunch, relax and look at what you have done so far... check to see that everything is tight and adjusted properly. I know that you have given yourself a deadline, but if you overlook something and the motor has to come back out, you will lose time. Just sayin'
Excellent advice!
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:42 PM   #66
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I hope a few exploded drawings and parts lists here and here will help; sorry, I can't produce Jesus, but He helped.
http://tinyurl.com/6d329ec
That's funny
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:18 PM   #67
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....I have several "marks" on my harmonic balancer. One is just a single line. Then I have 3 "dimples," if you will, on the front side of the balancer. The middle dimple (it could be called a hole) is where it ended up when air stopped coming out of the plug hole. I looked at a few timing pictures on some websites but I ended up even more confused when I was done reading them. The forums generically explained the marks but it was a moot point because one person mentioned that over time the balancers can move causing a false reading. Yup, that's just what I wanted to hear. So how about it, anyone one of a foolproof way of finding TDC that doesn't include opening my wallet? I would be grateful for any input.
First of all, are you saying you reused the harmonic balancer off the old engine? And are you using the left front cylinder in combination with the top timing plate? The dimples are probably just where the balancer itself was balanced by drilling out metal from the heavy side. How did you turn the motor over and also have your finger over the plug hole? Where did the engine come from and is it a rebuild?

The most accurate way to find TDC is with a positive stop and a degree wheel. The positive stop for an engine with the heads installed is like a spark plug with the guts drilled out and an adjustable brass rod sticking out of the end that goes into the cylinder. A degree wheel is a 6" to 12" diameter metal disc with a hole in the middle for the crank bolt, and all 360 degrees marked off on the edge. You install the degree wheel with the crankshaft bolt so that the degree wheel turns when you turn the engine. Make a pointer out of a piece of coat hanger (remember them) or a heavy piece of wire that is bolted somewhere on the block and is bent to point to the edge of the degree wheel. Install the positive stop and adjust the center so the piston comes up and is stopped by it. Read the degree wheel. Let's say it reads +120*. Turn the engine the other way until the piston is stopped again. Now let's say that it reads -68*. The sum of the two readings is 188* and TDC is halfway in between, or +26*. Guaranteed....

PS-Paint a white line on the face of the balancer so you can see if it slips over time.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:35 PM   #68
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That 'Line' cutting across the width of the balancer is lined up with markings on the block..

TDC is when the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke and both valves for that cylinder are closed. If one is open, then you are 180 out...

You can find TDC (close enough) with a screw driver in the spark plug hole.
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Old 09-19-2011, 03:12 AM   #69
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on my 1985 454 you time with #5 mark will be under motor on drivers side
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:06 AM   #70
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Wow, so much information. Ok, I'll answer some queries: First, how did I crank the motor while holding my finger over the #1 hole? Very carefully. I put a socket on a breaker bar and turned the balancer with one hand while holding my finger over the plug hole. I guess I'm talented like that. I'm 6' tall so I have long arms. But in doing that I noticed that it was easy to go past TDC a little. Using only one arm gave little control to stop exactly at TDC. That's why I'm only close but not dead on. Now keep in mind that the motor is now in so turning it isn't quite as easy as it was when it was out. I have a special tool that turns the flywheel using the teeth. I can only turn a quarter at a time though. Second, where did the new motor come from? A Chevy Suburban. It's the exact same block, I just had to swap intake manifolds because mine has a carb and the new one had a throttle body. Then I had to swap accessory brackets. Everything is in place now. I just need to know without a doubt that it's at TDC. Then I believe I can just throw in the distributor and whichever post the distrib lines up with I'll put the #1 wire there and continue around with the firing order. That should do it.
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