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Old 11-15-2011, 09:43 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by GOLDWINGER2 View Post
Welding rod? Does'nt melt fast enough.
J
The the radiator that I fixing was copper I believe and I got it patched up. I use a very small gauge of copper rod; it seemed to melt easily with the heat from the torch. The tank on the radiator was just so thin that it took a lot of time for me to get acclimated with how quickly it would melt.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:49 AM   #100
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The radiator should be copper. You would want to solder it, not weld it. The difference being in the temperature of the metal used to seal the hole. The solder will melt around 450' to 600'.
I know it is alot of work but with a new engine the radiator should have been removed and at least cleaned.
As far as your battery cable goes I think you may have left off the braided wire ground strap. This is usually at the rear of the engine and goes to the frame.
Did you reinstalled the support bracket at the rear of the starter motor also?
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:13 PM   #101
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Solder the tank...Quick, easy, and only needs to hold 14-18 pounds of pressure anyways..
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:13 AM   #102
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Thanks for the advice. And, yes, I do have some experience welding. Radiator "fins" are very thin. You have to use very light heat or they will melt.
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:51 PM   #103
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Hi . How is it coming? Hope it is running now. Please let know.Thinks.
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:31 AM   #104
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been watching this thread with great interest. i have a '87 34" bounder on a Chevy P30 chassis with a 454 (and NO drivers door!). It had been sitting for some time, so i changed all the fluids, etc. shortly afteward, I had a radiator leak. I took it out (4 hours) and took it to a radiator shop, where they rotted it out and resoldered the tanks. cost me $185. although the original antifreeze looked like new, apparently it attacks the solder when sitting for a long time. reinstalled the radiator (5 hours) and it works great. it really is a pain to work on.

following this tread, i wondered what was the best way to remove my engine if i ever needed to replace it. with no drivers door, removing the front didn't look all that easy, nor removing the suspension and dropping it out the bottom. anyone done one with no drivers door?
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:46 AM   #105
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Here are some pictures of somone who manuvered a 460 in a Oshkosh (Jone Deere) chassis out a side window he removed. Had to place plywood on floor to move the hoist around inside.

Replacing the engine

Dave
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:54 PM   #106
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Mine is a 79 Coachmen and i took the radiator out and used a winch to mount the carb intake and it came right out. The transmission does have to unbolt first. It wasn't that hard to do. I undid the trans and all the front stuff like the power steering pump,a/c and alt. Fan too. It was easy as pie!!
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:33 AM   #107
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Hi guys! Sorry for not checking in in awhile. I've been very busy and haven't even had a chance to get the NTM motor running. It's in, it's all hooked up, and I tried turning it over but it didn't start. I really didn't expect it to. I just wanted to know it was going to turn over. Everything seemed to work ok but I had one really bad issue. Even though the motor did turn over i lost battery power after about 10 seconds. When I checked the battery I quickly noticed why. The negative terminal had melted and the cable fell off. So my guess is (and it is only a guess) that there is a positive wire connected to a negative or somehow grounded. The problem is...where?! Has anyone here had the same problem after doing significant motor work? I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:43 AM   #108
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Any possibility that the ground wire was frayed at the point it melted (wire to clamp connection) and it was just it's time to go? Once the wire strands get way too smal they will act like a toaster wire and glow then melt.

When you hooked up the battery did you hook positive first then negative and if so did you notice any spark? If the wire melted when using the starter there are not really any other circuits working except the starter solenoid.

My money is on a faulty cable.
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:05 PM   #109
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Hi guys! Sorry for not checking in in awhile. I've been very busy and haven't even had a chance to get the NTM motor running. It's in, it's all hooked up, and I tried turning it over but it didn't start. I really didn't expect it to. I just wanted to know it was going to turn over. Everything seemed to work ok but I had one really bad issue. Even though the motor did turn over i lost battery power after about 10 seconds. When I checked the battery I quickly noticed why. The negative terminal had melted and the cable fell off. So my guess is (and it is only a guess) that there is a positive wire connected to a negative or somehow grounded. The problem is...where?! Has anyone here had the same problem after doing significant motor work? I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.
If you are saying that the battery post melted, it got over 600 degrees to do it! Try to turn the motor over by hand with a breaker bar on the crank or with a flywheel tool. She may be tight.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:54 AM   #110
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Did you hook up the braided ground strap that goes from the block to the frame? If you did not this can, along with a starter that may draw too much, cause the ground cable to get hot.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:41 PM   #111
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Hi guys! I'm still here. And, yes, I'm still having that battery post melting problem. All of the braided grounds are attached. I haven't had much time to work on her lately but I think I'm going to give a go this weekend. I'm thinking about changing the wires around on the starter relay thingy. I think it's a relay. Anyhow, I had to replace it during my engine change because it was sticking and not releasing the starter. Thus, the engine kept cranking when I released the key. I labelled the wires when I took them off of the old one. What I didn't count on was, the new one wasn't labelled so I didn't know what posts to put the wires back onto. That's the only thing I can think of. Anyway, the motor does crank very well. I know if I got the wires right it would most likely start. It may need a bit of tweaking once it runs but I'm sure it'll start.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:41 AM   #112
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Wow guys and gals.What a great thread!!.I snoozed on this one,but read the whole thing.Mine is a 1981 P30 Winnie Warrior with a A-arm/cross member.I have toyed with a updated Lt or Ls for it and now that the Gear-Vendors has been out for awhile some are showing up at used pricing.

Anyways-Ron please keep the posts coming.
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