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Old 05-12-2012, 05:06 PM   #211
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I keep forgetting to take my meter to the RV. However, from what I can see it seems as if I have enough power to turn the motor. For some reason that power is not making it to the starter. The starter solenoid is brand new. The relay is also new. I also cleaned all connections. As an electrician that's the first thing I look for. There is one thing about my batteries that seems weird to me. Then again, I'm not up on DC stuff. My house batteries and the engine battery are connected. I have two house batteries that are connected this way. Pos. to the breakers, neg to the other battery pos, and other battery neg to the neg on my engine battery. Then the engine battery pos to starter relay. I didn't know you could connect one battery pos to another battery neg. it was like that before all of my headaches started and everything worked fine. Is this common in MH's?
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:08 PM   #212
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At this point, there is only one way your going to obtain some confidence that the battery in the RV is in good condition. Pull it out, take it someplace and get it recharged and tested. The high current issue and then being completely discharged may have damaged the battery. Lead acid batteries simply do not like being totally discharged. If the battery has been damaged, then no amount of van jumper cable charging is going to get you going.

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Old 05-12-2012, 05:10 PM   #213
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You only connect pos to neg IF you have 2 6VDC batteries. Pos to neg allows 2 6VDC batteries to produce 12VDC.

If they are two 12VDC batteries, then it is pos to pos and neg to neg.

Dave

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Old 05-12-2012, 05:20 PM   #214
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Are you saying that all batteries share the same ground connection at the point where the ground lead is connected to the engine battery?
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:25 PM   #215
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My brain hurts.



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Old 05-12-2012, 07:51 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief
You only connect pos to neg IF you have 2 6VDC batteries. Pos to neg allows 2 6VDC batteries to produce 12VDC.

If they are two 12VDC batteries, then it is pos to pos and neg to neg.

Dave
I see. Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teachrz
Are you saying that all batteries share the same ground connection at the point where the ground lead is connected to the engine battery?
Yes.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:54 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
My brain hurts.
Lol...your's? I've been swimming in this mess for a year now.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:57 PM   #219
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It sounds to me as if I should toss all of my batteries and get all 12v batteries and separate their negs. Or just toss the damn RV.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:03 PM   #220
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Ron,

High resistance is probably what's cooking your battery terminals. You should have your chassis and house batteries grounded to the chassis, then run a secondary ground strap from the engine block to the chassis. The engine and trans is mounted on rubber and can not conduct 12 volt electricity properly without wiring it this way.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:20 PM   #221
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Ron, exactly how many batteries do you have and what type?

6 volt batteries will usually have 3 hole to fill with water.

12 volt batteries usually have two elongated caps with three holes per cap.

If you only have 12 volt batteries, they should be wired like the picture posted by Dave.



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Old 05-13-2012, 04:39 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
At this point, there is only one way your going to obtain some confidence that the battery in the RV is in good condition. Pull it out, take it someplace and get it recharged and tested. The high current issue and then being completely discharged may have damaged the battery. Lead acid batteries simply do not like being totally discharged. If the battery has been damaged, then no amount of van jumper cable charging is going to get you going.

Dave
Dave you nailed it.With mine I had what I thought was a good Interstate,but set for a long time.I feared a short somewhere because it seemed to drain over time.Replaced the battery and needed to drive it.Well I drove it for three months and it never failed me.I can got out now with it setting for over 6 wks and bam it will start.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:41 AM   #223
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Also-let us not forget a shorted dead battery will burn a ground cable too,
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:21 AM   #224
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Most people only have digital voltmeters now that is why I stated 11v. The meter will not respond fast enough to register lower unless the key is held in the start position for awhile. This might melt his battery or cause a fire.

If he has an old analog meter it will read the correct voltage drop. Most good batteries will not drop below 10.5v or so.

I agree he should disconnect the house batteries, take the chassis battery out and get it tested.
This is a WAG, but he did have the engine out. Is the torgue convertor shaft properly aligned in the transmission front pump? I have seen them misaligned and usually you hear a snap when the pump breaks, but not always. An indication when assembling the trans. to the engine is the last 1/2" approx. has to be pulled together with the bolts. The shaft on the torque convertor is notched on opposing sides and the mating projections on the front trans pump slide into these. This can not be seen but has to be felt when installing the torque convertor in the trans. This bonds the engine up and makes it hard or impossible to turn.
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