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Old 03-20-2015, 10:14 PM   #1
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1990 Monaco

Does anyone in the group have a 1989 to 1990 Monaco Crown Royal .Looking for more information about this era of coach.
Thanks Derfy
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:20 PM   #2
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Look up "Static Nomadic" Rick on YouTube. His is around the same year. He does great videos and I bet if you email him he will answer all your questions 😜


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Old 03-21-2015, 01:37 AM   #3
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Never thought of 1990 as vintage...but that is 25 years ago!

Best luck
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:30 PM   #4
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derfy
I have a 1990 Monaco Crown Royal. Owned for one year.What info are you looking for? I also could use info on wiring diagrams etc. Working on a over heating problem and need info on the fans and radiators.
Thanks illinoisboy
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:22 AM   #5
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derfy
I have a 1990 Monaco Crown Royal. Owned for one year.What info are you looking for? I also could use info on wiring diagrams etc. Working on a over heating problem and need info on the fans and radiators.
Thanks illinoisboy
I would take a careful look at the state of radiator and it's ability to pass air through the cooling fins. Truckers routinely degrease(GUNK) and maintain the airflow of the radiator and intercooler.
My Generator had this very problem when I purchased my coach...it would run till hot then shut down.
If you do not know the age and condition of your thermostat then get rid of it as well. there will be a hydraulic valve inline with your fan drive if you have a diesel pusher and this will have a connection that you should absolutely tap a manual switch into if you don't have one already. This will give you the ability to switch it on as you approach a heavy grade so you can begin cooling early rather than waiting for the engine to heat up...again a truckers rule...verify that the thermostatic switch which controls the fan automatically is also functioning.
Main thing to remember is the radiator is an item that must receive some basic cleaning and maintenance and your fluid as well which should be test stripped and additives used if necessary to assure long life and good service.
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:30 PM   #6
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The 1989 to 1992 Model is different from the 1993 and up versions. Rick looks to be in a 1993-1994 model. Completely different looking coach.
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:08 AM   #7
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I would take a careful look at the state of radiator and it's ability to pass air through the cooling fins. Truckers routinely degrease(GUNK) and maintain the airflow of the radiator and intercooler.
My Generator had this very problem when I purchased my coach...it would run till hot then shut down.
If you do not know the age and condition of your thermostat then get rid of it as well. there will be a hydraulic valve inline with your fan drive if you have a diesel pusher and this will have a connection that you should absolutely tap a manual switch into if you don't have one already. This will give you the ability to switch it on as you approach a heavy grade so you can begin cooling early rather than waiting for the engine to heat up...again a truckers rule...verify that the thermostatic switch which controls the fan automatically is also functioning.
Main thing to remember is the radiator is an item that must receive some basic cleaning and maintenance and your fluid as well which should be test stripped and additives used if necessary to assure long life and good service.
Good info here! X-2
I removed and cleaned my CAC once a year, Get a product that is used in the A/C industry to spray on and clean the bugs and the baked on crap, then power wash it out, not getting to close as to damage it! Do the radiator too, while the CAC is out! Makes a really big difference!
And also the manual switch for the fan, very important!
Rail!
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:31 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info.
1990 crown royale L10 300 hp.
Replaced antifreeze last fall.Just replaced water pump-thermostat-turbo-boiled out intercooler. Fans running at start up no leaks. Went 7 miles on two lane road and temp was 190. Checked for leaks all looked good. After 2 or 3 miles on interstate temp rose to 210. Slowed down and made it back to my shop, temp stayed at 210.When parked At idle it cooled to 190 within 3 min. The fans were running and shinned a light behind radiator, looked clean.Is there a relay that would turn the fans faster as needed? There seems to be hydraulic drives for each fan, could they be not working to spec? Next step will be washing radiator, checking relays and new radiator cap. Thanks for any help.
illinoisboy
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:22 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info.
1990 crown royale L10 300 hp.
Replaced antifreeze last fall.Just replaced water pump-thermostat-turbo-boiled out intercooler. Fans running at start up no leaks. Went 7 miles on two lane road and temp was 190. Checked for leaks all looked good. After 2 or 3 miles on interstate temp rose to 210. Slowed down and made it back to my shop, temp stayed at 210.When parked At idle it cooled to 190 within 3 min. The fans were running and shinned a light behind radiator, looked clean.Is there a relay that would turn the fans faster as needed? There seems to be hydraulic drives for each fan, could they be not working to spec? Next step will be washing radiator, checking relays and new radiator cap. Thanks for any help.
illinoisboy
Not to be Debbie Downer here, but 210 seems to be within normal operating range, no? I'm not sure what you're getting at.

Also, where are you measuring your temps? Are you going simply by the gauge in the dash?
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:08 PM   #10
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I second Castrol...first verify accuracy of reading...Pacar senders are known for low and SW & ACD is known for 5-10 high almost as a rule...big thing with what gauge is reading is always consistent numbers...if you are going to get hot then it will just continue to climb...a good fan setting for a 3406 is around 205-210 with a running temp around 195-200...I have a 3208 and I like 185 and fan on at 195 and in a few short minutes it comes right down...my Touareg is 220 in any outside condition hot or cold...the point is a very predictable and consistent number....Also you want to keep an eye on your trans temp as well because it will be within a few degrees of your water temperature after a bit of normal driving under most conditions.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:42 AM   #11
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Reading temp at the gauge. I will get a gauge to measure at the radiator.Before I started the work on the coach it boiled out the radiator cap and the temp was 250 on gauge in the dash.Before that happened the temp never rose above 200 even pulling a loaded trailer with outside temps in the 90s, it would run steady at 190 to 195. You said your 3208 cools quickly after the fan kicks on. Mine only cooled after I stopped. The outside temp was 50,driving on flat ground. I agree the temp did not keep climbing but I did slow to a crawl and thought it would cool some. It also seems the fans would be louder than they are. Are the fans just on or off or do they turn faster as needed to cool? I am going to do another test drive this week. I will check the temp at the radiator and trans.
Thanks
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:07 AM   #12
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Ok awesome...now we are getting somewhere...this is among the most simple of things but I remember a pickup I had with an OH problem and I replaced everything as you have and it got better but not wholly fixed and we were just standing there contemplating radiator removal and my grandfather came out and asked if we had replaced the radiator cap..well $14.00 later for a Stant and you can imagine where I was at...the one thing about a 3208 if memory serves is there is a port/valve in the upper section of the thermostat housing that is there solely for refilling the block...I don't think you are having a problem there but I will look over my CAT manual and see if there are any bulletins on it...I seem to remember something...if you have no luck after that then I would look to the bottom radiator hose(suction) to make sure its not collapsing...unlikely but possible (especially if you have some radiator restriction) and if not that you have to research the actual radiator and get some NPT pipe and reducers to get the lower radiator hose hooked up to a garden hose and flow water up and out through the top or simply pull it and have it tested...
Lastly about the Fan(s) if you don't have a manual switch as I stated before you really must make that a priority once you are back in calm water
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:48 PM   #13
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Thanks for the reply.There is a fan switch with manual on from the factory.Not sure it works, no change in speed at idle.Replacing cap this weekend. Talked to Source Engineering today, they said the fans may not be working per spec, and gave me a name and number to troubleshoot the system. I will update when done.
Thanks
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:47 AM   #14
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I looked at mine and there is indeed a valve in there that is important to filling...the port is what I am pointing at...like I said unlikely but if things remain dicey then you really have to dig around a bit and of course a big air bubble is a lack of coolant in the absolute worse place to have one in this application...anyway hope you have it all figured out by now and are rolling down the road!
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