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Bob P. · 07-07-2016, 03:36 PM

Has anyone replaced the front air bags on a 1992/3 Mountain Master 2242, solid front axle, pre-IFS?

I've (actually my mechanic has) run in to a problem.
The bags are bolted to a plate and to get at them you have to remove this plate.
It's a thick plate under the bottom of the front bags (no not part of the bag assembly) that has 4 long bolts that go through the plate and axle and around the control arm.
Well, it looks like that plate has hex holes that hex headed bolt fit into.
And in trying to remove the nut it seems that those hex holes have stripped, either in the plate or on the bolt or both.
So it looks like I need at least one, might as well get both new plates.
Got the part number & price from Spartan, $60 a piece, not a problem.
Reyco part # 704880-01
It's the 3 to 4 week delivery time that is getting me, I'd like to get the new bags on ASAP.
I wonder if there's a way to either get them quicker or something. (I've got some ideas)

Anyhow I've attached some pics...

Gilleshps · 07-07-2016, 03:52 PM

Not sure they can help you with the plate but it's worth a shot. I bought my bags from Michigan truck spring for $100 ea and free shipping in 3 days. They look identical to yours, on my bus chassis.

Here's the link.

http://www.truckspring.com/

C-PHartley · 07-07-2016, 07:07 PM

I just replaced. My '95 MM front air bags. I cut the old bolts off with a cutting torch as the new bags came with new bolts attached. I used the hyd. jacks to raise the coach enough to make room for the new bags. I hope this helps.

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Bob P. · 07-07-2016, 08:07 PM

Thank you Gilleshps, I thought that link looked familiar.

Last month when I was getting my new bags I called Michigan Truck Spring, almost bought from them, but I got mine from Spartan instead.
Even though Spartan charged for shipping, for all four they ended up being $30 cheaper.
The rubber bag part from Michigan Truck Spring is Firestone, the ones from Spartan say Contitech, which is Continental. I dunno, but either way seemed fine to me so I figured I save $30.

I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if they can get them there.

In case anyone out there is looking for the part #s here's what Spartan gave me. (Check with them just to be sure with your own chassis VIN)
These are the Reyco numbers,
Fronts - 0492-DD1
Rears - 12884-01
Firestone numbers,
Fronts - W01-358-8961
Rears - W01-358-9223
(I might have the Firestone #s not quite right front & rears might be swapped, but it's obvious when you see them)

Oh and by the way Gilleshps, I like those Vogues, we almost got a Vogue instead of the Eagle, I think it was a 1986 Vogue II.
One of the things that deterred me was I thought trying to get parts might have been harder than the Eagle, plus it didn't look as sharp as yours.

Bob P. · 07-07-2016, 08:43 PM

Thanks C-PHartley.
Yes, I'll talk to the mechanic about just cutting them, thought of that too after I understood what the issue was.

When he was doing it I didn't really get exactly what he was talking about until I got home and went underneath and took pictures.
After I did that and got a Reyco Model 1200 Installation Instruction .pdf file from Spartan, I saw exactly what the deal was.

The bolts in question don't actually connect to the bags, they go to a thick plate that has to be removed, then that's what the bolts that hold the bags on bolt to.

I've attached the .pdf file in case anyone out there might need it.

Gilleshps · 07-07-2016, 10:05 PM

Thank you Bob P, I always like those older eagles too. I still search for them in the early 90's.

That's the 8.3L cummins I believe? Great looking coach.

Yes the bags were firestone, and lots of fun to replace. I can't believe the old bags were still holding air after 30 years. They looked like a 30 year old tire sitting in the Arizona desert.

DeOrellana · 07-08-2016, 06:55 AM

I can think of two ways to solve this. Without seeing it in person, it's kind of hard to see which would work best.

Easiest: Get new bolts and weld the bolt heads to the plate. Make sure everything can be taken apart and put together if you do this. Make sure that he doesn't heat the bolts too much so that they lose their tensile strength.

Harder, but will restore original design: Buy 4 6-point sockets the correct size for the bolt heads. Avoid chromed sockets as they are harder to weld. Drill holes in the plates the same size (slightly larger with space for weld bead) as the outer diameter of the sockets and weld the sockets in place. Cut the sockets off even with the top of the plate. Now you have new 6-point bolt holes for your bolts without waiting for the new plates to arrive.

Bob P. · 07-09-2016, 08:14 AM

Thanks Erik, I like both your ideas.
I hadn't thought of the socket idea, if I had the tools to do all this myself it's probably the way I'd go.
The mechanic stopped with at the first bolt so it's only one that would have to be done. So he'll probably only have to weld one of them.
I'll get him to cut the rest off instead of trying to unfasten them. I'll definitely be getting new bolts anyhow. I'm glad the .pdf Spartan sent me has all the bolt sizes.
I am curious about the one bolt that he tried to remove, whether it's the bolt head that's rounded off or the hole that it goes into. My guess is it's probably both.
Oh yes, Erik, I've read through all 15 pages of your Elandan renovation, quite an impressive undertaking you've got going there.

I'm also a micro-controller hobbyist, been using PIC controllers off and on for quite a while and have 3 Raspberry PIs with various cameras and RTL-SDR radio dongles hooked up.
Work wise, I design and program industrial control panels, so I will be watching your renovation thread to see how you do the rewiring.

DeOrellana · 07-10-2016, 04:43 AM

Thanks Bob, glad you like my renovation thread, although so far it's just been disassembly. I don't think I would have taken it on if it wasn't for all the other people who have done renovation threads here on irv2. And all the ideas that are shared by everybody. Although today it's dumping rain again so no progress will be made.

I haven't worked with the Raspberry Pi or PICs, I've worked mostly the ATMegas, which are in the various Arduinos, and developing technologies for embedded systems. It'll be a while before I get to the wiring, though.

Let us know how it works out and what solution you used. It's always nice to know how people solve things.

Bob P. · 07-14-2016, 08:55 AM

I started with PICs way back, gosh I can't remember when, long before Arduinos came around. Someday when I find some free time, lol, I'd like to use them.

Anyhow, back to the air bag dilemma.
The more I thought having the bolt heads welded the less I liked that idea.
They call for grade 8 bolts and besides holding the air bag plate they also hold the axle to the Spring Beam assembly which holds the axle to the frame.
So they are some major structural items and it's really not a good idea to weld bolts, especially harden ones, if you really need the strength.
Learned that from one of my other old hobbies, 4 wheeling. Pirate 4x4 is a great forum for that kind of info. Some serious rigs those people run and run hard.

But six small welds to the plate, but not the bolt should be OK, just to hold it from turning. Easier than drilling and welding in a socket, which I do kinda like that idea.
Anyhow, I'm trying to talk to both Spartan and Reyco Granning about my problem.
Spartan did send me a .pdf of the Model 1200 suspension and replacement parts numbers (3 to 4 week lead time, ugh), but the diagrams look a little different than what I've got in my pictures of the actually parts.
Here's a couple more pictures of things. Not sure hows my mechanic is going to cut the bolts that are kind boxed in by the part that connects the axle to the spring beam.

NHRA225 · 07-21-2016, 03:58 PM

Did you ever get the Air bags done ?

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Bob P. · 07-21-2016, 09:08 PM

Hi Chuck, no not yet.
I've been communicating with both Spartan and Reyco Granning. Tough time of year to try to get stuff done, they're both very busy, at least the RV divisions.
When I was looking at the Model 1200 .pdf Spartan sent me I noticed that the part (BASSA - Bottom Air Spring Support Assy) looks different than what I have, in a few ways, as well as some of the other parts.
I want to be sure that those are the right parts.
So now I'm talking to Reyco about it, Nicki (the Powered Vehicle Support Specialist) has been trying to get more info from the engineers there. She's been pretty good so far, she was on vacation for a bit so it has been taking a bit longer than I had hoped.
I just want to know if I can use those parts, or if I can just use my old BASSA with some welds on the probably stripped out hole that holds one of the bolt heads from turning.

By the way, nice Eagle you've got there. My wife and I had been RV shopping for quite a few years looking at quite a few different one before we found this Eagle and between reading your, Glenn L. and stkt and others here posts you all inspired me make it our Eagle.

I think (and hope) we've got most of the major issues dealt with, lots of little stuff still, but once we get the new air springs on up front we'll be ready to use it.

NHRA225 · 07-22-2016, 06:37 AM

Thanks Bob !
My chassis is the same as yours, I'm mechanically inclined but I know my limitations at my age. I'm calling American coach and try to get it in there and be done with it .