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Old 08-04-2013, 03:45 PM   #1
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1993 Fleetwood Bounder wall repair

I searched the web for information on repairing a water damaged wall and couldn't find much so I dove in and will post pictures as I progress.Just some background on my rig it's a 1993 Fleetwood Bounder diesel pusher. I have wanted a pusher for a loooong time but with a limited budget it was tough to find one till this one showed up at RCD sales in Ohio. the price was right, it had a few minor problems that were repaired quickly but there is some water damage to the left bedroom wall that needs attention. The previous owner thought it would be acceptable to just bang up a piece of 1950s style paneling over it and the result was yucky. I removed the paneling and the haphazard glue job ripped off some rotted wood.
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After I managed to rip the inner paneling off (leaving just the thin layer that is laminated to the Styrofoam insulation) I scraped all the loose stuff off the metal framework in preparation to glue a new board to it.
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Now I'm going to spray some bleach on it to kill any mold and let it sit and dry completely. Time to get some panel and shop for wallpaper.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:13 PM   #2
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Wile I'm inside the wall I'm going to try to do something about the exterior swelling that occurred when the metal truss work rusted and pushed out the outer skin.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:36 AM   #3
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For the outer skin I would recommend using Eternabond and you can paint over it. For the interior you might have to use some drywall, then a smooth application of wall paper will do nicely.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:40 PM   #4
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Water dammage repair to wall

We had to do a complete restoration to our 1990 classic HiLo trailer. We consulted with our HiLo dealer and the factory before we did repairs. We don't claim to be experts,but this is what we did and it worked for us. It has been two yrs. and we are high and dry. I would advise you to rip everything out until you have only the inside fiberglass remaining. Dry up the interior fiberglass(this hot weather should work nicely.) Purchase at Autozone 3M bondo. Read all directions and apply with an industrial respirator and good ventilation. This will stink for several days. You can apply this with a disposable paint brush. Next wirebrush and paint any exposed metal with rustoleum paint. Replace Styrofoam insulation1/2 inch. we used heavy duty liquid nails a very generous amt to back of styrofoanm board. use 1/8 underlay. Always use liquid nails between layers. Cheapest at wallmart. Then we used 1/8th paneling that had a vinyl coating on top. This was by Georgia Pacific and was ordered in at ACE hardwear. DH used a floor roller to press layers together. Note the 3M bondo dries to a hard acrylic like shiny finish. This seals up any pinpoint holes that you can't see.Any interior gaps were filled with either spray foam insulation or lexel caulk. This caulk can be purchasedat ACE hardwear or on line. Keep ripping your wall apart until you hit undamaged wood. You tube has a video on how to take out an RV window and reseal with Butyl tape. Please don't use drywall as this won't hold up to water. This also would be added weight. I would recommend taking out all your windows and resealing them. This gives you a peek at your interior walls. Let me know if you have any more questions. The syyrofoam we used came in sheets.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:16 AM   #5
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This looks grim!!! Looks like you have Fiberglas damage. The do it yourself RVier usually can't repair Fiberglas this warped from water damage. It will be easy enough for you to repair inside. But I really think you need to bring in an RV repair expert for advise and help with the outside. Again fiberglas is usually not user repairable and this is where a professional will be worth their weight and gold.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 92TNTRacing View Post
Wile I'm inside the wall I'm going to try to do something about the exterior swelling that occurred when the metal truss work rusted and pushed out the outer skin.
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:42 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by cimplexsound View Post
This looks grim!!! Looks like you have Fiberglas damage.
Lucky for me the fiberglass was fine only pushed out where the metal truss work rusted and swelled. Once I rattled the rust out the glass sat right back down where it was when new!
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:52 PM   #7
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Almost done. I still have to paint the walls, the trim matched up nicely, Once the glue set up the wall is very sturdy. I'm very happy with the way Fleetwood puts their coaches together, a major water leak like this and the only thing it attacked was the inside paneling. The metal framework was in great shape I think because the paneling soaked up the water. The outer skin and laminate insulation suffered no delam. at all. Not having any wood studs was nice to.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:15 PM   #8
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What type of paneling did you use?
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:23 PM   #9
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What type of paneling did you use?
I used 1/8 inch floor underlay. It was real close to the stock panel.
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