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Old 05-14-2015, 11:40 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=leesdx1;2555375]
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Originally Posted by leesdx1 View Post

Motor7, getting back with you on the baffle. It always happens, when you looking for something and you can't find it, then one day out of the blue you find it. Well that's what happen today, but i did find a pix of the baffle. Hope it helps.
Mortor7, here is the attached pix that should have been on my yesterday's reply.
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Old 05-15-2015, 03:30 AM   #16
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Ah-ha..."Plastic Air Inlet Hood"...thanks !
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Old 06-11-2015, 03:27 PM   #17
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Ok, I flushed the rad twice, replaced the thermostat with a 195 high flow, replaced both upper and lower hoses. I verified that the fan clutch is working and the smaller electric fan in front of the rad is also working.

Took a 6hr trip each way to Clarks Hill lake in GA last weekend & pulled our 22' pontoon boat. Temp gauge under normal loads is running about 5 degrees cooler. However on steep grade climbs, the temps still climbs up to the 240-250 range then stays there until we reach the apex of the mountain. Running WB on I26 in SC there is a pretty good grade which had us going 35-40 mph for about 10 min with the pedal smashed to the floor.

The engine never overheated, nor did it spit into the overflow tank, so I think I am just going to consider those temps normal???
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:55 PM   #18
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I betcha the radiator is starting to plug up. had the same issues with mine. The radiator shop showed me my old core and compared to the new one they installed. He told me I had a car radiator sized up to fit the motor home. Plus the fins were coming off of the cores. and the inside was coated up with a white substance which was cutting down on the thermal transfer. Also is your rubber dam in place over your radiator? If that is gone that could also contribute to a over heating issue.
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Old 06-12-2015, 06:52 PM   #19
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Check plugs and wires as well as rest of tune up stuff.

If timing can be adjusted confirm correct as if retarded it will run hot.
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:07 PM   #20
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BA...rubber dam? do you mean the plastic shroud between the rad and engine? If so, yes that is intact but there is nothing in front of the rad between it and the backside of the grill. I agree, it could be the core so that might be a winter job for me.

TQ, I have considered timing, but the thing starts idles and runs perfect so I am hesitant to mess with the timing at all.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:32 PM   #21
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It may not be adjustable on those.

It only takes a bit to make a difference and still runs well.

Lots of little things that can cause hestion and you are already looking in general direction.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:40 PM   #22
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Have you shot the thermostat housing with an IR gun to verify the high temps? Could be just a high reading gauge. I've made a living calibrating instruments, couldn't do it if they were all accurate.
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:19 AM   #23
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I hear ya TQ.....you might be right & I might try that before getting a rad re-core.

ART, yep my IR says the same as the dash gauge.
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaycoEagle10 View Post
No, sorry don't have any pics of what the box would look like. I do like your idea of going to some form of ram air though. Even going to a slightly taller air filter to raise up the filter cover to uncover the filter will help let in all the air the TBI can handle for better performance.

In the olden(we have no money in our pockets) days we would flip the filter cover upside down to gain performance increases. This was of course if you still got a good filter seal to also keep out trash from getting into the carbs.
The problem with doing this is that it brings in HOT air off the radiator into the engine. You will loose performance from doing this. It worked in the car because the engine compartment had better ventilation and the load was much less. Motorhome notoriously have poor flow into the radiator. Between that and the load on the engine, there is a ton of heat in the engine compartment.

A couple of things to look at. As everyone else has suggested, your gauge is likely to be off. There are two sensors on your engine. One for the gauge, and a more accurate one for the ECM. TunerPro is a software program you can download on to your laptop and view data from your ECM. While you can build a cable for 20 bucks, you might as well buy one that also adapts USB to serial, otherwise trying to find a USB to serial adapter that likes the odd baud rate can be tricky.
Links are here:
TunerPro and TunerPro RT - Professional Automobile Tuning Software
Plug in definition for your ECM:
0x00000000
The cable is purchased here:
OBD Diagnostics
This will give you an accurate temp reading, as well as a bunch of other goodies. Of course you can also buy a chip burner and use the same software to tweak the program if you want. GM was pretty conservative on their programing. You can also enable mixture enrichment, specific for your vehicle. GM disabled it on heavy vehicles, because they were concerned it would be under enrichment all the time because of the load.

If the engine really is running hot, then I would be looking at ducting air from the front of the coach and forcing all the air to go through the radiator. This should help. Also make sure the air coming in to the intake is fed from a cold source in front of the radiator. Make sure there are no leaks where hot air can get into the intake.

Lastly, headers and straight through mufflers (NOT Flowmasters) will make a dramatic difference in engine temperature. It will also help performance a bit too.
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Old 06-13-2015, 01:21 PM   #25
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Yah what Dave said about blocking anywhere the air could escape after it comes through the grill. It helped me a lot but still had to had the recore the radiator. also look at the weights on the distributor and make sure they are free.
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:36 AM   #26
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Dave, thanks for the links...checking now to see which obd plug I have(96 coach, 95 chassis ...i think).

BA, fabbing up a shroud for the rad is not a big deal for me. At the same time I am going to extend the air intake to go straight from the grill to the air cleaner with a baffle in it to keep the rain out.
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:59 AM   #27
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You will have an OBDII plug, but it will still be OBDI. When GM came out with that specific ECM, it was a transitional piece for them, so they used the newer style plug, even though it is still OBDI. The fuel injection system that I am using is based on that same ECM, so I am very familiar with it. The software program I have listed is extremely versatile, which makes it a little more complicated to use. However, once you understand it, you can lay out your own dashboard and display anything you want to in just about any way that you want to. I used to keep my laptop running on my dash all the time I drove.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:22 AM   #28
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Nice Dave! I have and old Galaxy tablet that will work prefect for this.

Btw...nice antique TV you have there Mine was overhead and on those nice smooth roads in Manitoba it was rattling around so much I thought the whole overhead cabinet was going to come down. Before we left for home I removed it and sent it to the dump...must have weighed 45 lbs. I replaced it with a reconditioned Vizio 23" from Wallyworld, bought a folding pivioting locking wall mount from CW. When I pulled the Vizio out of the box I was shocked...it weigs less than a laptop. Ain't technology great?
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