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Old 06-14-2015, 09:27 AM   #29
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You will have an OBDII plug, but it will still be OBDI. When GM came out with that specific ECM, it was a transitional piece for them, so they used the newer style plug, even though it is still OBDI. The fuel injection system that I am using is based on that same ECM, so I am very familiar with it. The software program I have listed is extremely versatile, which makes it a little more complicated to use. However, once you understand it, you can lay out your own dashboard and display anything you want to in just about any way that you want to. I used to keep my laptop running on my dash all the time I drove.
Cool set-up, Looking for a set-up like this for my 95/96 Chevy Bounder too. Thx for showing and links.
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:35 AM   #30
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Btw...nice antique TV you have there
you like that eh? At the time I bought that, it was modern technology. Now it serves no purpose other than to fill the hole that was cut out for it. the real problem is that you get so use to how something looks that you don't even see it any more. I've really never given much thought to getting rid of it, even though its not used, and is really in the way. I should really find a better use for that space. Mostly its just one more spot where things get set down on it.
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Old 06-17-2015, 02:10 PM   #31
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Yep I got rid of my whopping 9" tv and a vcr that was underneath it and now I have a open area to throw all of my junk paper work in. Ha Ha Ha.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:52 PM   #32
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Hmmmm....a Banks exhaust system would sure be nice and cool eh? ...tempting....vaaarry tempting
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:18 AM   #33
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I would not bother with the Banks. Go with Thorley. The pipes are thicker gauge, which means they are quieter under the engine compartment. Tri-Y has a broader power band than a single pipe. I've not seen a specific comparison of Tri-Y and Banks, but every comparison I've seen between regular long tube headers and Tri-Y shows the Tri-Y comes on the power sooner and provides more power until you reach higher RPMs than our engines will turn.
Secondly, you must use a straight through muffler. When I first put the Thorleys on, I tried a couple of different baffled mufflers (Flowmaster). I ended up wasting a lot of money, before finally going with Magnaflow. I was going strictly by performance - measuring zero to 60 times with a stop watch. Going with Magnaflow knocked off about 2.5 seconds off the zero to 60 time. I'm also running an H-pipe, although one would do better with an X-pipe.
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:40 PM   #34
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Dave I have been reading up on headers and found a few threads comparing Banks to Thorley and I think you are right...besides a complete system would likely be under a grand if I install the headers myself then have a muffler shop do the rest.
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:53 PM   #35
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I had a 95 suncruiser with a 454 it over heated because of bugs between radiators and a bad fan clutch. I also had a cracked exhaust manifold blowing hot air on the temp sensor.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:09 AM   #36
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Ok, I must have done something right. Before the last trip I addressed the missing "Plastic Air Inlet Hood".


I ended up at the largest RV bone yard in the country over in KY(Tim Allen grunt). I found the cap on a stripped rig in about 10 min, so I asked the salesman "how much?"......he said, "$250", I said....ha, very funny...$2.50?" then he went on to explain how they only sell complete systems, and in this instance it would be the cap, the intake tube, the breather assembly and the air filter. These pparts are no longer made, so post crash, the insurance company will buy entire systems, not individual parts....arrggg.

Soooo, off to Home Desperate I went, and picked up some parts from the drainage department:


A section of 4" tube with a grate on the end:


I installed a anti-mouse screen:
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:18 AM   #37
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Then screwed all the parts together and installed the tube down at the upper front section of the grill:




Since the tube has such a steep rise and the drainage pipe is slotted, I am not too concerned with water intrusion. It's not a true RAM Air, but I think it's much better then having the engine pulling air off the top rear of the firewall. All this for slightly less than $250

I did a 12 hour round trip to Ga, I40, to I26 up over the Blue Ridge mtns not towing anything. I averaged 10 mpg, and my temps ran about 5-10 degrees cooler than before. I think a combination of the RAM Air, the flushing, new hoses and T-stat has made a difference. My temps still rise when climbing a steep Mtn, but even when pulling the boat I have never seen any rad fluid go into the overflow so I am just going to monitor the gauge and if nothing changes during this summer, I am calling it "good".
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:20 PM   #38
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The fabrication police are going to get you.

Good to hear it helped. Pretty simple solution. I really wonder if the bone yard is remotely realistic in thinking they would ever be able to sell the whole air intake. Reality is, if one was in an accident bad enough to damaged the intake, for the cost of body work, they would probably total an RV of that age.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:00 PM   #39
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Then screwed all the parts together and installed the tube down at the upper front section of the grill:




Since the tube has such a steep rise and the drainage pipe is slotted, I am not too concerned with water intrusion. It's not a true RAM Air, but I think it's much better then having the engine pulling air off the top rear of the firewall. All this for slightly less than $250

I did a 12 hour round trip to Ga, I40, to I26 up over the Blue Ridge mtns not towing anything. I averaged 10 mpg, and my temps ran about 5-10 degrees cooler than before. I think a combination of the RAM Air, the flushing, new hoses and T-stat has made a difference. My temps still rise when climbing a steep Mtn, but even when pulling the boat I have never seen any rad fluid go into the overflow so I am just going to monitor the gauge and if nothing changes during this summer, I am calling it "good".
Nice work. To get more cold air you could install a 90 degree outward bend and keep away from heat source. see pix
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