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Old 02-02-2011, 08:40 PM   #1
RBY
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1st rv remodel

This is my first thread on this site and my first RV. The responses I have read seem very helpful and I'm sure I'll have many questions. I appreciate comments. I bought a run down '78 Avenger, I think it is made by Holiday Rambler. Had it stripped down to the studs and floor joists in three days. The way the walls were built on top of the floor required some sawzall work. Several wood members were deteriorated and had to be removed. All the fiberglass insulation was removed from the ceiling, walls and floor pan. The RV had been sitting a while and several animals had moved in. After sweeping it out I noticed the 2x4 steel tubing of the main frame was in good shape and may only need some rusty metal primer. I sprayed everything down with a clorox solution to kill the stink and mold. I'll shopvac next and then move to framing repair. There were no tanks at all and I'm pricing black and grey holding tanks. I'm trying to decide if a fresh water tank is even necessary. We don't plan on camping without a water hookup. I'm thinking of using rigid foam as insulation and hitting all cracks with expanding foam to make it really tight. Also wondering what to do with the leaky alum roof. A roofer recommended a product called Hydro Stop. I don't know how it will hold up to the movement. I would like to hear some opinions on this. I also entertained the idea of a TPO roof but didn't want to terminate all the way around the sides. So many questions. Thanks
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:31 PM   #2
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Post up some pics...
I considered using rigid insulation as well but ended up using fiberglass. IMO rigid would be better but it is more costly.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:09 PM   #3
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I'd recommend a fresh tank, even if its a smaller one salvaged from an old Truck Camper. You never know when you're going to run into the issue of the water being shut off at the park or needing the toilet while on the road, etc...
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:34 PM   #4
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Sounds like you have quite a project on your hands. Kind of fun to do though. I definitely recommend adding a fresh water tank. As posted above, you never know when it will come in handy. When traveling you'll need the water to flush and wash hands. Back in the 70's I had fresh water in my travel van and used it more than I thought I would.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:23 PM   #5
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good luck on remodel

i redid a tt for the wife as a fleamarket rig years ago and used the rigid foam it worked great it is a little higher but will never settle and it took nearly nothing to cool it.
on an aluminum roof and i.ve got to go over mine there is a product called vulchem 640 we use it at work to seal the roofs of our trailers and containers nation wide and that numbers over 50,000 units it is great, you can contact them and they can tell the closest trailer repair that carries it.
it runs less then $50 a gallon and a gallon will go a long way

best wishes frank cricket and harley the dog
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:01 PM   #6
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RBY, Welcome to the forum. Post some pics of your project...
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:15 PM   #7
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As slow as construction is I would contact some of the local insulators that spray the newspaper insulation and see what that would cost. It is firerest. and varment repellant. I have a friend that is a contractor and that is all he uses in the homes he is building now. Would not recoment the spray foam...Happy Trails...
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
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As slow as construction is I would contact some of the local insulators that spray the newspaper insulation and see what that would cost. It is firerest. and varment repellant. I have a friend that is a contractor and that is all he uses in the homes he is building now. Would not recoment the spray foam...Happy Trails...
Mulched paper insulation and an RV that will eventually leak again is just asking for problems.
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:48 PM   #9
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You mentioned mold and cleaning it with bleach (not really a recommended way to clean it). Basically in short the reason is that bleach kills the mold spores (you say....so what's wrong with that?). Well when the spores are killed they detach themselves from their host and become airborne. These spores even though they are dead can be very harmful to your respiratory system. Check out this link on the proper way of cleaning and remediating molds Fighting Mold
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:49 PM   #10
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Mulched paper insulation and an RV that will eventually leak again is just asking for problems.
I agree, but with a proper rebuild that shouldn't be a problem. I was thinking of the true seal you get over block insulation. Lot of air gaps in the block type..It was just a thought...Happy Trails...
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:12 AM   #11
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I agree, but with a proper rebuild that shouldn't be a problem. I was thinking of the true seal you get over block insulation. Lot of air gaps in the block type..It was just a thought...Happy Trails...
Not a bad thought, but no RV no matter how good unless its one piece molded, will remain forever leak proof. I have to retouch most of my seals on a yearly to bi-yearly rate or they have the potential of leaking, just comes with flexing.

The air gap issue can be mitigated by cutting foam board either just slightly too big and squeezing it down into the opening (Method I've used), or using the flexible expanding foam for gap sealing that's available (It remains rubbery after curing instead of becoming rigid) to seal any remaining gaps.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:39 PM   #12
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You talked me into it. Maybe hang it high and gravity feed the toilet? To keep from needing a pump. I'm trying to keep cost way down.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:43 PM   #13
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I'll do it. Once I figure out how. I'm working a little at a time on the weekends. Slow but keeps me occupied. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:52 PM   #14
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Not a bad thought, but no RV no matter how good unless its one piece molded, will remain forever leak proof. I have to retouch most of my seals on a yearly to bi-yearly rate or they have the potential of leaking, just comes with flexing.

The air gap issue can be mitigated by cutting foam board either just slightly too big and squeezing it down into the opening (Method I've used), or using the flexible expanding foam for gap sealing that's available (It remains rubbery after curing instead of becoming rigid) to seal any remaining gaps.
I agree. I'll use a rigid foam because of the high r value, no sag, water resistance and most importantly i've got some in the barn from an old job. I like the idea of using the window and door foam instead of the max expansion. Thanks
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