Community Forums

MotorPro · 01-11-2016, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

Don't bother looking for an in line fuel filter on the frame. This is only on fuel injected engine models.

Your engine will have a filter in the carburetor. NAPA# 3052. Remove the fuel line then unscrew the filter housing. Be careful not to lose the spring behind the filter. It has to be there for the filter to operate correctly. There is also a clear plastic gasket attached to the filter housing which can get out of place when removing the filter. Be sure this is in place before screwing the filter housing back into the carb. You want to be sure you screw the filter housing straight into the carb. These are easy to cross thread and strip. You should be able to screw the housing in several threads by hand if it is in position properly.

I use a couple wraps of teflon tape on the fuel line threads before screwing the line back into the filter housing.

The filter housing and line should be snug but not overly tight. Again the filter housing is easy to strip the threads on.

Start the engine with the air cleaner off and check carefully for leaks.

I would change the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires. If you change the cap you will have to remove the coil from inside the cap and install it in the new cap. The two wires from the coil will push out from the bottom of the cap. There is also a wire or strap which goes from under the coil to the center of the opening where the coil wires go in. DO NOT leave this out. The cap will have a button and insulator which must be properly placed in the cap. The new cap will come with these parts. Use them.

Lynn

Your carbureted engine will defiantly have a filter on the frame. Usually driver side about a third of the way back on the inside of the frame rail.Second the fuel line is a straight thread with a seat and should never have Teflon tape put on it.

TQ60 · 01-11-2016, 12:41 PM

Threads do not seal so to tape.

Just be sure surfaces clean and good clean washer gasket.

AND HAND TIGHT ! Meaning only use the wrench for the last turn to seat things.

Your fingers usually cannot strip things but they can tell if cross threaded.

All soft fittings need this style.

George Schweikle · 01-11-2016, 02:20 PM

Agree. Remember the old mechanic's advice: "99% of all carburator problems are electrical".

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38Chevy454

... That would not cause any missing, and since yours is intermittent, that really points to ignition as the source.

glennj3cub · 01-11-2016, 04:24 PM

Again thank you to all of the advice for me.
I use my RV 3 nights a week away doing a contract job. With a few days off I don't find a lot of time to get lost in doing repairs. So I started at the most likely culprit and planned to move to others.
I could not locate an in line fuel filter, for that matter I could not ID the fuel line at all. Me and my son crawled from the tank to the engine.
I did see the carb filter, was in a very tight place and I would have needed the correct wrenches and it was a very tight place. So rather than risk messing up something there I saved that to later.
It is pretty difficult to remove the breather with all of those hoses attached. Addressing the spark I saw on the carb. While replacing the breather I saw a spark on the carb from the metal breather! Engine off. Got to looking and I think the air intake end was touching the hot wire to the Alternator! I bent that hot wire a little more, well out of the way.
I replaced the rotor and cap, used that same coil. First time I have seen one like that! I bought top of the line but they did not have the best rotor but I had to take it.
Put all of that back together, she seemed to run well. I did not do a check drive but I put her in drive, held the brake gave her some gas and she wanted to go, nice and smooth. I forgot to get the condenser...
Oh, I also cleaned and re oiled the air filter. It looked good anyhow.
Since I did not see any sign of wire sparking anyplace last night I figured the wires were OK.
I have a new set and plugs for next time I have off.
By the way, seems the best way to get to those plugs would be to remove a front wheel, otherwise crawl underneath to that area??

Glenn

TQ60 · 01-11-2016, 08:23 PM

The wires sometimes leak showing sparks while most common is the resistance goes up.

Basic construction is string, yes what looks like packaging string coated with graphite and this is inside the rubber.

The graphite is the conductor and over time with heat and sharp bends it breaks down.

Does not show any issues until you need more power.

Your in system can output a great amount of voltage to overcome some wire failure but a weak spark can cost you power high costs you MPG and general performance.

Deano56 · 01-11-2016, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glennj3cub

Again thank you to all of the advice for me.
I use my RV 3 nights a week away doing a contract job. With a few days off I don't find a lot of time to get lost in doing repairs. So I started at the most likely culprit and planned to move to others.
I could not locate an in line fuel filter, for that matter I could not ID the fuel line at all. Me and my son crawled from the tank to the engine.
I did see the carb filter, was in a very tight place and I would have needed the correct wrenches and it was a very tight place. So rather than risk messing up something there I saved that to later.
It is pretty difficult to remove the breather with all of those hoses attached. Addressing the spark I saw on the carb. While replacing the breather I saw a spark on the carb from the metal breather! Engine off. Got to looking and I think the air intake end was touching the hot wire to the Alternator! I bent that hot wire a little more, well out of the way.
I replaced the rotor and cap, used that same coil. First time I have seen one like that! I bought top of the line but they did not have the best rotor but I had to take it.
Put all of that back together, she seemed to run well. I did not do a check drive but I put her in drive, held the brake gave her some gas and she wanted to go, nice and smooth. I forgot to get the condenser...
Oh, I also cleaned and re oiled the air filter. It looked good anyhow.
Since I did not see any sign of wire sparking anyplace last night I figured the wires were OK.
I have a new set and plugs for next time I have off.
By the way, seems the best way to get to those plugs would be to remove a front wheel, otherwise crawl underneath to that area??

Glenn

sounds like that wire to the alternator needs replaced or at least some electrical tape wrapped around it and some good shrink tube

LETMGROW · 01-12-2016, 04:26 AM

"I forgot to get the condenser..."
Don't replace the condenser. This is an electronic ignition system without points. The condenser you saw in the distributor is there only for radio static suppression. It will have no effect on engine running or performance.
While you are in there change the plug wires regardless of seeing sparks or anything else. To change the dist. cap you had to move and bend the wires some and you will do the same when changing the plugs. The engine temperature inside these dog houses is higher than a car or pickup. The wires are more prone to drying out and maybe now you won't see any problems but trust me you will in the near future.
Be sure to properly adjust the plug gap when installing the new plugs.
When you buy new wires they will come with a small packet of silicone di-electric grease. Dab a small amount on the end of each dist. terminal and the spark plug end as well as some inside each plug wire boot. The grease helps ward off effects of moisture as well as making wire removal much easier the next time. Change the wires one at a time matching the lengths of the new wires to the old wires as closely as possible. They will be close in length but probably not exact. Some wire sets will fit more than one vehicle application so they are generic in length. This saves inventory on store shelves. Be sure you place the wires back into the looms attached to the engine etc. to keep the wires away from the exhaust manifold and throttle linkage. Make note of the wires you took off. Some may have straight boots while others have angled boots. Install wires with the proper type boot in the same place as the wires you removed. This aids in clearance.
A 3/8" ratchet with a swivel head helps in removing the plugs. You may have to crawl underneath to get to a couple of the plugs but it is doable.
Lynn

Deano56 · 01-12-2016, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George Schweikle

Respectfully not correct. My 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, GM P-30 series chassis, had an in-line fuel filter located on the passenger side frame rail and I'm assuming the original poster has a similar filter on his 1987 P-30 chassis.

I believe mine is the same, never seen a vehicle without a filter, that little filter in the carb is extra protection

glennj3cub · 01-12-2016, 06:57 AM

I leave this morning and it is cold out. Hope to replace the plugs and wires Saturday. Hope she does OK until then. Just didn't have time to complete.
I also changed out and cut some of the tips off of the small vacuum lines. Very good vacuum 20 lbs.

spritz · 01-12-2016, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George Schweikle

Respectfully not correct. My 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, GM P-30 series chassis, had an in-line fuel filter located on the passenger side frame rail and I'm assuming the original poster has a similar filter on his 1987 P-30 chassis.

X's 2
I have 2, 1 for each tank. Under Mh along frame rail's behind a cover plate. Between entry door and the Passenger seat.
1982 Pace Arrow P-30 Chevy 454 4 barrel. Speaking of the carb there is one on the back of the carb also Totaling 3.
JMO,
Tim

glennj3cub · 01-16-2016, 08:57 PM

I just wanted to F/U with how she is driving now. The RPM is steady and the engine has plenty of power. I don't usually replace fix something that is not broken unless it looks like it is ready to go. So I am sitting back with just the new cap and rotor for now.
To F/U on fuel economy I had stated someplace earlier. I use an entire tank and filled up in rout home. I got a wopping 5.6 MPG driving less than 60 MPH on the interstate. Now, I must say I would not know how to calculate fuel burned by the generator, it comes from the same tank. In three days I ran it twice a day for maybe an hour each day. Onan 2 cylinder. It was also skipping for my last two legs, 120 miles.

OldToolmaker · 01-17-2016, 12:54 PM

We have an '87 Rockwood on an '86 Chevy P-30 Chassis with the 454, a quadrajet and the GM HEI ignition and the 4KW Onan Emerald II. The Onan uses about 0.7 gallons per hour in our application. We measure 5 MPG around town and on the highway but if we keep the vacuum gauge above 5" Hg we get 7 MPG. And earn the admiring glares of other motorists on the hills.

What we have learned is that the spark plug wires are the (a) weak point. Our plug wires have metal shields with Mylar paper insulation at the sparkplug end of the wire because of the great heat thrown by the exhaust manifolds. The rear two cylinders mostly the one of the passenger side is (area) the one(s) that fail(s) the most.

glennj3cub · 01-17-2016, 05:51 PM

If I may introduce additional question regarding the generator. Lately just after cranking her up, I hear a very loud high pitched screeching noise. Sounds like it comes from the right end with the coils. The noise usually goes away after a few minutes.
I read one place that the bearings or something need to be cleaned with a special tool.
Any ideas?

TQ60 · 01-17-2016, 07:47 PM

Could be bearing or commutator.

Get a stethoscope for car work and see what you can find.

Do get the wires and plugs changed out some time soon as the wires will make a difference on power.

Timing makes huge difference if adjustable but be careful as just a bit too advanced and it will ping and too retarded it has low power and runs a little warm.

Until proven otherwise just use 1 gal per hour for genny as it is simple math.