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Old 01-18-2016, 08:24 AM   #43
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From what I have read was the Slip Rings may need cleaning. I looked inside through a small access to view the wire part that turns. I sprayed electrical cleaner all around but I don't know what to particularly clean otherwise. There is a slip ring cleaning tool?


Changed the oil yesterday and she runs and performs well, just don't know what that screeching could be?
Thanks
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:37 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennj3cub View Post
From what I have read was the Slip Rings may need cleaning. I looked inside through a small access to view the wire part that turns. I sprayed electrical cleaner all around but I don't know what to particularly clean otherwise. There is a slip ring cleaning tool?


Changed the oil yesterday and she runs and performs well, just don't know what that screeching could be?
Thanks
Slip rings are what the brush's ride on. There is "pen spring" pressure on them. I can't imagine them screeching.

A bearing or belts screech.

My Generac generator has a drive belt under it. It runs between the engine and generator head.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:36 AM   #45
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I am not aware of any belts, it looks like a direct drive to the gen. Onan II or III not sure.
This sounds like metal screeching!
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:50 AM   #46
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I would be concerned if it is a bearing that it could cause more damage if left unattended. Is there any way to touch the bearing after it has been running a while to get some idea of the temp? I'm not suggesting to touch it while its running, but as soon as possible after has stopped. It should be warm to the touch, but not too hot to touch. Sometimes a permanently lubricated bearing that is on it's way to failure will screech for a while, as yours seems to be doing, before failing. Generally after failure it will either seize and wear on the bearing mounting surfaces or provide enough play or "looseness" to allow the spinning part to contact surfaces around it, or both. I don't know about the slip rings or commutator (is commutator DC?), I've never had that problem. I've had brushes wear out and the spring would then be making contact with a bit of noise, but that didn't stop after running for a while.

Best of luck with it.

Steve
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:49 PM   #47
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I did branch off from the original post, thanks. So my engine is running very well but the tachometer jerks around at lower speeds but the engine feels and sounds very smooth. I never did replace the wires as I saw no electrical sparks or lights while looking at it in the dark.
It has just been too cold to do anything with it this week but I don't think that would do this to the tach anyhow?
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:53 AM   #48
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Have you had a ticking noise when you start and run the engine, With mine ( many years ago ) that ticking noise is a cracked manifold. It probably is blowing hot exhaust gasses onto a plug wire and burning it. As far as the fuel filter is concerned THERE IS ONE ON THE FRAME RAIL WITH CARBURETED ENGINES. Mine is on the passengers side. It looks nice and easy to get to but it is tight up there. Better get some extra fuel hose and couplers as to make the job easier for now and later. Also if the intank fuel pump in the tank is not working it will start and run but if you push the engine it will backfire because of the lack of gas. But the plugs and wires are a good place to start and also a distributor cap.
When your ready to do some work on the distributor check out the posts from Jim "jim83itaska" Elliott He passed some years ago but nobody seemed to know the 454 better than he did. I took his advise and had my distributor recurved. It increased my mileage buy a couple of miles per gallon and really upped the performance.
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:37 PM   #49
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The engine does not have any blown gaskets or cracks in the exhaust. The engine is running great now after replacing the cap and rotor. I may still replace the wires but if they are not bad, why replace them?
I will look again for that elusive fuel filter tomorrow!
Thanks,


Glenn
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:45 AM   #50
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If you wish to hold on wires okay but test first.

The engine will run fine pass snog and do very well until it needs every pony and then some.

As stated before our pick up ran fine until we hit the grapevine then the big trucks were passing us.

This was back in 77 before the higher power models of today.

Get your vacuum gage on the engine and get a spray bottle filled with water.

Engine can be cold so no need for warm up just remove cover and with gage installed start and let idle.

Now fully wet every wire being sure to wet areas close to ground.


If the gage flinches at all or yiu hear any difference there is jacket leakage that may not show up as a spark but will also indicate loss of performance.

Your coil can output 60 to 80 KV and only 5 to 10 KV are needed for non loaded spark.

Higher voltage capacity is there to both overcome the voltage drop of the suppressive wires (so the radio will work) but also to insure more current in the spark.

And voltage drop in wire results in less current in spark meaning weaker spark which impacts loaded engine.

Back in the day when you connected a scope to the engine for checking this you could see and measure the spark voltage and during idle ir slow increase in rpm the peaks just got closer together indicating higher rpm.

Punching it also caused the voltage to spike.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:37 AM   #51
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Quote:
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The engine does not have any blown gaskets or cracks in the exhaust. The engine is running great now after replacing the cap and rotor. I may still replace the wires but if they are not bad, why replace them?
I will look again for that elusive fuel filter tomorrow!
Thanks,


Glenn
Is the tach. working properly now?
I would replace the plug wires now. Even though they pass the wet test the wires do deteriorate with age. This will cause high resistance between the distributor cap and the spark plugs. This is the number one cause of cap and (or) rotor failure.
Lynn
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Old 01-31-2016, 04:52 PM   #52
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Thanks, the tach works very well but has some roughness at idle or low RPM. Cruising it is very steady.


Just have not had time to replace those wires yet!
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:46 AM   #53
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Finally I replaced my spark plugs and wires yesterday. What a job, very difficult to reach some of them !
Anyhow, I should have done this a long time ago as I was instructed to do by several of you guys. I was surprised it even ran, much less was running smoothly! Bad gas mileage though.
Of course you are interested in what condition I found them in?
The first wire I pulled broke off leaving the plug cap on the plug, the plug cap crumbled in my fingers as I squeezed on it. Another one had a white spot on it (like it was burned through).
Now the plugs, oh the plugs...the gap was about .050, one looked moist like gas, not oil. None were burned or had bad color. The outside was very rusted and the metal tips were very rusted.
I replaced that little pipe from the manifold to the air breather, the old one was hard and did not fit well.
Of interest, while underneath the RV I saw on the driver side at the exhaust connection a heat sensitive valve I believe it opens when warmed up. Looks like it pushes heat up a small metal tube to ward maybe the carburetor ? Anyhow that metal tube was rusted with open areas to the air. The rest of the tube is strong and looks good.
Thought I might wrap the open area with some sort of exhaust tape ??
Still looking for the fuel filter!
She cranked up and ran fine, now I need to test drive her. Hope she gets better mileage too!
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:07 AM   #54
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Won't say it so will not...

That valve on the exhaust seems odd.

Make sure exhaust path is good.

That piping is common stock at Napa so cut a chunk as sample and measure how long then just replace it.

The plugs tell the story of how each cylinder is running.

50 thou. Is on the small side if I recall some of the hei systems were 60 to 80 to have a larger spark area, they could output plenty of voltage to get it done with good wires.

Line them up with good lighting and post some good photos as we would like to see them
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:57 AM   #55
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I agree: Fire it up on the darkest Night, look for sparks jumping

If you replace one or two wires, no big deal, but Running The Sparkplug wires on big blocks really takes a lot of care & attention to detail, because the wires want to lay on the manifolds & you can't see to make sure the wires are on the plugs, also the wires need to be right length , as well as attached to the wire loom properly.

The right wires fit in the "keeper" attached to the distributor cap.

Might just be the time to hire a "Real" mechanic, if you don't feel up to the job
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #56
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The valve in the exhaust may be the old heat riser.

It was bi-metal controlled, to direct heat from one head, thru a passage in the intake manifold, to the other.

That warmed up the carb. so the bi- metal choke spring would open the choke.

Ahh, the old dirty engine says.
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