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Old 07-25-2007, 07:14 PM   #1
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So here's the deal. I have 2 immediate problems. I have headers on my motorhome [chev. 454] and one of the gaskets is leaking causing undesirable noise! Also my mechanic says there's vacuum leakage around the carb/intake manifold. [previous owner put on a holly replacement 4 barrel] I've done some mechanical work but haven't attempted this stuff. Should I do it with the proper manuals and instructions or give the job to my mechanic and help him pay for his son's college education? I do kind of see it as a challenge but is this tricky stuff that should be left to a professional? What do y'all think. Thanks. I've appreciated your input.
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Old 07-25-2007, 07:14 PM   #2
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So here's the deal. I have 2 immediate problems. I have headers on my motorhome [chev. 454] and one of the gaskets is leaking causing undesirable noise! Also my mechanic says there's vacuum leakage around the carb/intake manifold. [previous owner put on a holly replacement 4 barrel] I've done some mechanical work but haven't attempted this stuff. Should I do it with the proper manuals and instructions or give the job to my mechanic and help him pay for his son's college education? I do kind of see it as a challenge but is this tricky stuff that should be left to a professional? What do y'all think. Thanks. I've appreciated your input.
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:02 PM   #3
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If you are comfortable with the repairs and have the time and the tools..Do it yourself and save the money you would be paying for the mechanic, for a trip!!Headers are easy to change gaskets on. You loosen the end bolts and take out all the rest you can use a pry bar or screwdriver too get enough room to remove the old gasket and place the new gasket in. The intake you will have to remove all the bolts and if it has them any bolts that hold the alt.,ps, and a/c and take off the belts before you take the items loose the fuel line and air filter. The intake can be lifted and you want to take off the carburetor before you turn over the intake. Keep the carb upright. Turn over the intake and use a scraper to clean off the old gasket. A razor blade or a sander with 80 grit will clean off the intake gasket. You need to use a couple of rags to cover the cam valley, and you can clean the gasket off the intake area and I would use copper spray gasket sealer to put the gaskets on with! Then reverse the procedure to put it together. I would change the oil and filter afterwards as there maybe some anti freeze in the oil. That sounds like a pain ,and it is,Like I said, You have to make that decision as to how or what way to go!
Good luck whatever way you go. Capt.Dan
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Old 07-26-2007, 09:20 AM   #4
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What type of headers are on your rig?

I have "Thorleys" and on each corner on the manifolds a (3/8 X 16) BULL nosed bolt is installed so after all of the other bolts are removed the header can slide away (1/2 inch) and a new (notched at the ends) gasket can be installed.

If indeed you have a air leak between the carb/manifold.. Capt Dan is correct about using the "Copper spray" on a new gasket...

Sorry about the PO installing the Holley cuz IMHO the Rochester when properly setup is far superior due to the smaller primarys.

Jim
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Old 07-26-2007, 07:08 PM   #5
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Jim, Edlebrock has a carter style spread bore carb and thats what I put on mine. It kicks!! No two ways abut it!!650 cfm and thats smaller than the Q-jet,[780cfm].It seems that I am already getting better fuel millage. They also make a Qjet Edlebrock too!!
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Old 07-28-2007, 03:20 AM   #6
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Just remember when ya put it back together you're going to have to redo your timing as you'll be pulling your distributor's base out of before you can unbolt the intake manifold.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:31 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
I would change the oil and filter afterwards as there maybe some anti freeze in the oil. Capt.Dan </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you drain down the coolant first, there should be none running into the oil when the manifold is removed. I take an extra step and flush the manifold with water after the coolant is drained. That way, if there is a tiny pocket that remaining in the manifold, it is just water.

What Holley number is the one you like? Is it built like a conventional Holley? A while back I had a Holley spread bore 6619. Went through a lot of aggravation before I went back to a Qjet.

Not Holley-bashing here, as I love them on my hot rods and rump-rump boat.

My main objection to the conventional Holley on a MH is that the float bowl and jet block gaskets shrink and deform due to the heat of a MH installation and you end up with a leak. The fact that many MHs sit for long times also means that the gaskets are more likely to deform from drying out.
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:37 AM   #8
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Take good detailed pictures of the vacuum lines, wires, and routing. It makes reassembly so much easier if you have doubts.

In the case of the intake I would find where it is actually leaking. A carb base gasket is easier to change than an intake set, vacuum lines are easier yet, and should be changed as long as you have this apart. They are going to be nearly impossible to get off and back on.

If you do pull the intake I use spray gasket remover, it is easier than scraping with less garbage to get inside an open motor. A small dab of rtv sealant on all corners of the rubber seals where they meet the paper gaskets stops leaks and helps hold the gasket in place while setting the manifold. Make sure you torque the bolts in the proper sequence, the ones by the carb riser will be hard to get at if the riser is tall.

Even header flanges will warp over time and with a lot of heat. Check them for straightness, if they are not flat the leak will soon return. Copper gaskets provide better heat transfer and last longer, but are more expensive. Stage 8 locking bolts (also more expensive) will hold torque better.

Anti sieze will make future disassembly a lot easier (as well new hardware), PB Blaster a couple of times on exposed threads will help, as well as 6 point sockets.

The alternator and ac compressor mount to the head and intake, good time to change belts, fan clutch, upper/lower radiator hoses, thermostat, anything that wears or fails. Look carefully as you work for wear, cracks or signs of failure on everything.
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:41 AM   #9
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To detect vac leaks you can take a can of carb cleaner and spray along the intake gasket.A increase in idle will tell you where the leak is in the gasket.Inspect the vac lines closely.Look where heat normly is.
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:53 AM   #10
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I forgot to say if you find you have to remove the intake,mark the dist.Along with the pictures you shouldn't have to retime the 454.When I worked at Chevy Tonn engine plant as a engine tester we marked the dist with a angle chisel at the back of the dist/intake.(we called it staking the timing)You could mark it with a paint stick as well.This will insure you put back the dist right back where it was before you took it apart.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:12 PM   #11
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You would have to mark where the rotor button is at as well.
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Old 08-14-2007, 10:44 PM   #12
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To follow Capt Dan's thought,I should have advised you to turn the engine over until the rotor is on number one cyclinder.That is always a good ref point.And don't turn it over until you have the dist back in place.Sorry I didn't say that in the first place.Just another senior momment on my part.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:48 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the advice...good stuff. The season is fast closing here in the North and time in such short supply. I may have a winter to mull this all over. Haven't had as much time to use the rig as we had hoped this year, but enough to know we like the RV gig...a lot!
Thanks again for all of your ideas.
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Old 10-17-2007, 12:56 AM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jim_Elliott:
What type of headers are on your rig?

I have "Thorleys" and on each corner on the manifolds a (3/8 X 16) BULL nosed bolt is installed so after all of the other bolts are removed the header can slide away (1/2 inch) and a new (notched at the ends) gasket can be installed.

If indeed you have a air leak between the carb/manifold.. Capt Dan is correct about using the "Copper spray" on a new gasket...

Sorry about the PO installing the Holley cuz IMHO the Rochester when properly setup is far superior due to the smaller primarys.

Jim </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'll second that on the Rochester Quadrajet. We could take them, readjust the tapered metering rods and get a 472 equipped Sedan D'Ville up to 20 MPG on the highway. Many friends didn't listen and put in Holly EconoMasters only to find out their advantage was not fuel economy but the low price.

On the vacuum leak check first too verify where it is comming from. You may just have a vacuume line that needs to be replaced or need to tighten the carb back down a bit. Pulling the entire intake mey not be required. Start with the simple things first.
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