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Old 08-01-2011, 05:09 PM   #15
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I can't say for sure about a 1989, But the 1995 I had was normal to run 220 degrees. This is according to chevy manual.
It is normal 210 - 220 but in this heat all it takes is a good size hill to get it to 250 and all the bells going off. I think the 4 core 5/8 rebuild is the way to go.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:25 PM   #16
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I re-cored the radiator in my 1990 P30 last year. Found that most of the tube fins (hidden behind the A/C condenser and oil cooler) had corroded and were no longer making physical contact. Plus the original small radiator tubes only filled up about 3/4 of the available frame space. The larger tubes of the re-core completely filled the frame. While I had the radiator out, I also upgraded the water pump, installed a 180* high flow thermostat, and replaced all the belts. The temp gauge never leaves 180* and now I rarely look at it. Bottom line is even if the tubes are clean but the fins are gone, efficiency is zilch. Might be worth taking a look-see behind the A/C condenser - should be easy to do.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:31 AM   #17
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The points everybody is making about the radiator are good ones; I believe replacing or recoring is what we'll look at.

What are the advantages of recoring? Its not as though the radiator we have in there is exceptionally hard to find or super heavy dut, and a new one from Amazon is like $230 delivered.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:01 AM   #18
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The points everybody is making about the radiator are good ones; I believe replacing or recoring is what we'll look at.

What are the advantages of recoring? Its not as though the radiator we have in there is exceptionally hard to find or super heavy dut, and a new one from Amazon is like $230 delivered.
I found several part numbers available for the P30 chassis. Make sure the one you pick has ALL the sensor fittings and that they're in the correct position. For $230 I don't think you'll get the performance you expect. My re-core cost me $450 and is well constructed, has no aluminum, and is truly 'heavy duty'. After I had done all my research, I chose to re-core because new doesn't mean better. But if you find a 4 core, 5/8 tube, non-aluminum radiator for $230 that fits perfectly, please pass on the information.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:06 PM   #19
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before i would core i would ck the ign timing and also make sure your not running lean . good way to tell if it's running lean is to start it up @ night and look @ the exh. manifolds and if you have a lean condition you will see one of the the manifold's turn bright red .
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:24 PM   #20
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I found several part numbers available for the P30 chassis. Make sure the one you pick has ALL the sensor fittings and that they're in the correct position. For $230 I don't think you'll get the performance you expect. My re-core cost me $450 and is well constructed, has no aluminum, and is truly 'heavy duty'. After I had done all my research, I chose to re-core because new doesn't mean better. But if you find a 4 core, 5/8 tube, non-aluminum radiator for $230 that fits perfectly, please pass on the information.
X2, mine is currently being tested. Since my motor is still in pieces being machined,bored etc I just preferred to have a new/rebuilt radiator ready. Mine looked spotless for a original 1984 (chassis 1983). 1 less item to worry about. Taking much longer then I'd wanted to spend but when done it should be worth it. Still measuring for slide outs, tons of mods on a old 84 22ft winnebago
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:09 PM   #21
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See and I have the exact opposite problem, mine doesn't heat up enough to blow heat. I live in the hills of western Pa. and drove to a campground after midnite. It was getting a little chilly on the way so I turned the heater on but the engine temp doesn't get high enough to blow warm air. Being that I park it for the winter I'm happy with it just the way it is. And mine is a 1986 27' winnie with 454cid.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:41 PM   #22
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I need to get the part number off the radiator (ye gods, where the heck would THAT be?!!) for a firm-for-sure quote but radiator.com out of Chicago is quoting me $299 for an OEM certified radiator.
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:31 AM   #23
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I need to get the part number off the radiator (ye gods, where the heck would THAT be?!!) for a firm-for-sure quote but radiator.com out of Chicago is quoting me $299 for an OEM certified radiator.
After having mine recored, I would NOT want a OEM certified rad. The original one in mine was not big enough to handle the riggers of the motor home. The place I had mine recored at specialized in heavy duty truck radiators and stated that my radiator was a car radiator sized up to make it fit into the motor home. I was never so happy to spend the money to have it done right.
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:33 PM   #24
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See and I have the exact opposite problem, mine doesn't heat up enough to blow heat. I live in the hills of western Pa. and drove to a campground after midnite. It was getting a little chilly on the way so I turned the heater on but the engine temp doesn't get high enough to blow warm air. Being that I park it for the winter I'm happy with it just the way it is. And mine is a 1986 27' winnie with 454cid.
Your engine won't run correctly if it isn't at the designed operating temp.
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Dr. Terry McFadden teaches a course at UAF called Arctic Engineering. It is a gold mine of tips, solid engineering, common sense and often little-known facts about coping with day-to-day problems encountered in cold climates.

"Some experts estimate that the wear on the rings of an internal combustion engine is as high as 0.001" per 1000 miles of operation when the oil temperature is below 170 degrees F. If the maximum allowable wear is 0.006", how long can you run your engine when the oil temperature is below 170 degrees before you wear it out?" (A 6-to-1 engine-to-wheel reduction ratio, an average running speed of 3000 rpm, and 14-inch wheels 28 inches in diameter are assumed.)

The point of this problem is to stress that by far the greatest amount of engine wear takes place before the oil is warmed up. The amount of wear that occurs afterward is insignificant by comparison.

The answer to the problem given above is that the engine would be technically worn out after just 144 hours of cold operation. Realistically though, those 144 hours represent an awful lot of cold starts.


From Oil Temperature and Engine Wear, Alaska Science Forum
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:40 AM   #25
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Your engine won't run correctly if it isn't at the designed operating temp.

Well it gets 11mpg and runs fine. Has 60lbs oil pressure cold and 50 after it warms up. I'm not saying it doesn't warm up some but it sure doesn't get hot. I'd rather have one that stays a little on the cool side then all the problems with overheating that everyone else has.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:35 AM   #26
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Well it gets 11mpg and runs fine. Has 60lbs oil pressure cold and 50 after it warms up. I'm not saying it doesn't warm up some but it sure doesn't get hot. I'd rather have one that stays a little on the cool side then all the problems with overheating that everyone else has.
I get close to 10 mpg and good oil pressure also with my 1989 32' P30 chassis. But I've never heard of an early P30 454 running cold and I'm curious what's causing that. Is your thermostat working properly? What does your temp gauge show? I'm familiar with western PA and those 'hills' should keep the engine warm. Before re-coring and increasing my flow rate, my temp would rise close to 250* on long climbs. I wish I would have had your problem instead.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:03 AM   #27
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Your oil temp needs to hit 210 to burn off the moisture and impurities otherwise you will have problems. My oil pressure is 40 cold and 30 hot. I was wondering if this is a problem.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:19 AM   #28
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Sounds like no thermostat at all?
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