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Old 07-20-2011, 07:21 AM   #15
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Use a Shorter Belt--I did
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:10 AM   #16
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The airpump was installed to inject air into the exhaust manifold. This kept the fuel mixture burning longer, which reduced the emissions. The problem is they pick up water and seize up. Most of my customers removed the pump completely and installed a shorter belt.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:11 AM   #17
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on my 85 southwind no emission checks in texas my belt only drove the smog pump
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:37 PM   #18
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I might think about that for my 88 Bounder but here in Jersey they have smog inspections until the vehicle is 25 years old. After that, you can blow out all the crap you want.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:45 PM   #19
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I might think about that for my 88 Bounder but here in Jersey they have smog inspections until the vehicle is 25 years old. After that, you can blow out all the crap you want.
Kalifornia wants them smogged forever, It's the money ya'know.

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Old 12-29-2012, 02:43 PM   #20
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The biggest HP thieves are really the cams and the distributors. Get the dist re-curved and wake up that big block and pick up some mpg's.
J
GOLDWINGER2, reading through some old, back posts, I see that you make reference to recurving the distributor. What does that mean, and what is involved? Is that a DYI project? I am of the shade-tree variety. I have an '89 Winnie, P30 and 454. Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:33 PM   #21
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GOLDWINGER2, reading through some old, back posts, I see that you make reference to recurving the distributor. What does that mean, and what is involved? Is that a DYI project? I am of the shade-tree variety. I have an '89 Winnie, P30 and 454. Thanks.
Quick answer is that it involves changing your dist advance curve to get it as close to pinging (without pinging) as you can all though the engines rpm range. This is done by changing the weight springs (and maybe the weights too) to a lighter spring so that full advance will come in sooner. And then you play with the slots that the weights go in to limit or expand the range that the weights work in (limit total timing) Same for the vacuum advance unit but it is more of a "load" device. Best to find a older speed shop that has a dist machine to work with.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:49 PM   #22
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Sounds complex. Does it really give noticeable power/mpg increases?
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:12 PM   #23
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My air pump was frozen as well. I learned this after trying to replace a bad belt. I went ahead and used a shorter belt and took the pump completely off. But, I'm finding that it's really hard to keep the belt tight enough without it.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:27 PM   #24
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My air pump was frozen as well. I learned this after trying to replace a bad belt. I went ahead and used a shorter belt and took the pump completely off. But, I'm finding that it's really hard to keep the belt tight enough without it.
This whole '454' thing has been a learning experience you would not believe. My replacement motor is running now, thanks to a Good Samaritan who did it free of charge. He told me to take the smog pumps out of the picture but I worry about the problem you just mentioned. I now have two more issues to work on as soon as it warms up a bit. First, I nicked the radiator putting the motor in. I don't think that is going to be too hard to fix. Second, I have a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the right upper aft manifold. I have to remove the manifold. The bolt is going to be a bear to get out because it has a broken EZ-Out in it. I need a high carbon, carbide bit to drill it out. I looked online for such an item and I did find them. However, I wasn't expecting to find such an assortment. Not only do I need to know the size, I also need to know what type if tip, how long, and how long the business part of the bit is. I have no clue! I was expecting to see diameters, that's it. I was told to get one with a 'needle-like' tip so that it doesn't roam on me when starting it. Makes sense to me. I also wasn't expecting them to cost $30 each. Since I'm not sure what size to use I was hoping to buy an assortment. Not at those prices! I'm guessing 1/4" inch would suffice. Anyone have any machinist knowledge?
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:22 AM   #25
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Goldwinger2 i did mine not that bad you will need a timing light this has been maybe 3 years ago it was wrecking yard weights and I limited the vacumm advance with bacicly a small plastic tube (something like a straw) if I'm on level ground no hills I get inbetween 7.5 and 8.25 mpg pulling a 4 door Chevy truck search for treads by Jim Elliot (user name all one word) here he has passed away a little over a year ago my Internet is down so I'm on a phone PM me if needed
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:57 PM   #26
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i have an 1985 with a 460 stripped all the smog equipment off( was a California rig) you either use shorter belt or buy an idler remove and plug all lines i even cut a plate and removed the egr valve re tuned to earlier pre emissions spec for the same size engine in a heavy vehicle and never looked back power is way up fuel mileage not so much but thats my right foots fault not the engine.
it isn't a very difficult job just takes a while and a few trips to the parts store
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:39 PM   #27
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This whole '454' thing has been a learning experience you would not believe. My replacement motor is running now, thanks to a Good Samaritan who did it free of charge. He told me to take the smog pumps out of the picture but I worry about the problem you just mentioned. I now have two more issues to work on as soon as it warms up a bit. First, I nicked the radiator putting the motor in. I don't think that is going to be too hard to fix. Second, I have a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the right upper aft manifold. I have to remove the manifold. The bolt is going to be a bear to get out because it has a broken EZ-Out in it. I need a high carbon, carbide bit to drill it out. I looked online for such an item and I did find them. However, I wasn't expecting to find such an assortment. Not only do I need to know the size, I also need to know what type if tip, how long, and how long the business part of the bit is. I have no clue! I was expecting to see diameters, that's it. I was told to get one with a 'needle-like' tip so that it doesn't roam on me when starting it. Makes sense to me. I also wasn't expecting them to cost $30 each. Since I'm not sure what size to use I was hoping to buy an assortment. Not at those prices! I'm guessing 1/4" inch would suffice. Anyone have any machinist knowledge?
Depending on the access you have, an easier way is to weld a nut on or over the broken bolt. This assumes its not broken too far down into the head. If there is any sticking out, or even if its even, you can hold the nut in place with anything long enough to get it to stick. You can use a MIG welder, but in my experience a TIG does a better job simply because it will generate more heat. Good Luck..
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:56 PM   #28
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This whole '454' thing has been a learning experience you would not believe. My replacement motor is running now, thanks to a Good Samaritan who did it free of charge. He told me to take the smog pumps out of the picture but I worry about the problem you just mentioned. I now have two more issues to work on as soon as it warms up a bit. First, I nicked the radiator putting the motor in. I don't think that is going to be too hard to fix. Second, I have a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the right upper aft manifold. I have to remove the manifold. The bolt is going to be a bear to get out because it has a broken EZ-Out in it. I need a high carbon, carbide bit to drill it out. I looked online for such an item and I did find them. However, I wasn't expecting to find such an assortment. Not only do I need to know the size, I also need to know what type if tip, how long, and how long the business part of the bit is. I have no clue! I was expecting to see diameters, that's it. I was told to get one with a 'needle-like' tip so that it doesn't roam on me when starting it. Makes sense to me. I also wasn't expecting them to cost $30 each. Since I'm not sure what size to use I was hoping to buy an assortment. Not at those prices! I'm guessing 1/4" inch would suffice. Anyone have any machinist knowledge?
If you have room you can break up the easy out with a punch and hammer. The easy outs and taps are made out of hard steel that is brittle and easy to shatter (not as easy as glass) as to your dist recurve you can buy a recurved dist from a speed shop like summit racing or jegs. If you remove your egr valve the engine will ping and need the ignition retarded and cause lower power. The smog pumps can be removed but the injection manifolds that GM uses have there own threads going into the exhaust manifolds and you can get the right plugs at a speed shop. Hope this helps.
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