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Old 12-30-2012, 09:04 PM   #29
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a nut welded to the end is the best way i have found out of removing broke studs and bolts if you need to drill it . the drill you need is a carbide drill not a high carbon carbide drill ( have not heard of one of those )
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:31 PM   #30
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Welding the nut to the broken bolt is your best bet. I've had to do this on other repairs. Once thing I would love to find is information on the setup of the carburetor for this engine. Currently I just have plugs blocking off all the ports. 'm tempted to just go and buy a new carb to I have something that I can work with. I don't understand why finding any information about the factory one is so hard.

I'm going to tighten up the belt again, and see if it will stay this time, else, I'm going to have to do a little research on summit and see if I can find a solution. I'm thinking an idler pulley would be the answer, but I will have to locate one that would work in this application. Any info someone else has is always welcome.

Course, if money was no object... This is about 1300 bucks...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zop-8370c/overview/
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:50 PM   #31
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Ive been a machinist for over 50 years and have removed many broken bolts.If you do try drilling it out do go with a high speed drill motor for a carbide bit,they are verry brittle and will break in the hole an that will be a pain in the butt to remove.While drilling out the broken easyout go easy on the pressure but fast rpm.The better way is to try and break it up and use a air nozzle to blow out any chips,it is a tedious job but I would do that first.Drilling also must be done with ease.If you have a high speed air drill that would work .Just do like a dentist would do on your teeth.Good luck
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:45 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by ngarover View Post
Welding the nut to the broken bolt is your best bet. I've had to do this on other repairs. Once thing I would love to find is information on the setup of the carburetor for this engine. Currently I just have plugs blocking off all the ports. 'm tempted to just go and buy a new carb to I have something that I can work with. I don't understand why finding any information about the factory one is so hard.

I'm going to tighten up the belt again, and see if it will stay this time, else, I'm going to have to do a little research on summit and see if I can find a solution. I'm thinking an idler pulley would be the answer, but I will have to locate one that would work in this application. Any info someone else has is always welcome.

Course, if money was no object... This is about 1300 bucks...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zop-8370c/overview/
I found two papers written by Lars Grimsrud on the Q-jet about how to tune and common problems. Sorry I do not have the web address for them but it was not hard to find. I have them in my p-30/454 folder. Strongly recommends that you do not go for a rebuilt carb as some places took short cuts that do not work. get the papers and read them.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:01 PM   #33
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This whole '454' thing has been a learning experience you would not believe. My replacement motor is running now, thanks to a Good Samaritan who did it free of charge. He told me to take the smog pumps out of the picture but I worry about the problem you just mentioned. I now have two more issues to work on as soon as it warms up a bit. First, I nicked the radiator putting the motor in. I don't think that is going to be too hard to fix. Second, I have a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the right upper aft manifold. I have to remove the manifold. The bolt is going to be a bear to get out because it has a broken EZ-Out in it. I need a high carbon, carbide bit to drill it out. I looked online for such an item and I did find them. However, I wasn't expecting to find such an assortment. Not only do I need to know the size, I also need to know what type if tip, how long, and how long the business part of the bit is. I have no clue! I was expecting to see diameters, that's it. I was told to get one with a 'needle-like' tip so that it doesn't roam on me when starting it. Makes sense to me. I also wasn't expecting them to cost $30 each. Since I'm not sure what size to use I was hoping to buy an assortment. Not at those prices! I'm guessing 1/4" inch would suffice. Anyone have any machinist knowledge?
I agree that welding is what I would try first. I have a cheap MIG welder and it's easy to weld a nut over what's left of that bolt. Back it out while it's still hot. It should come out pretty easy while it's still really hot. If not you aren't any worse off. The cheap MIG welder at Harbor Freight would probably be enough to do this job. Just don't weld the nut to the head. Lay the nut over what's left of the bolt and weld down in the nut around the broken bolt. I would probably soak that broken bolt with penetrating oil for a couple of days too. Those things are a pain for sure. Keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:56 AM   #34
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I had to make a tool out of some flat stock to tension the belts on mine to get them tight.
Regarding the carburetor repair I have the original set up notes from the person who trained the GM service techs on repair, drive ability adjustments and set up tools needed. There where a number of different set ups and changes over a short period of time. Having said that They are not in a PDF format yet and the number of page is extensive. not piratical to send in the mail.
I seldom post hear anymore, but the link to my personal mail is still good so carb numbers might pin down the particular body you have. Then I might be able to supply the relevant information.
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