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Old 10-08-2014, 09:30 AM   #1
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72 Winnie

hello everyone. Im new here....
this is my first rv. Ive always wanted this model, and ive found one in pretty good shape. I have so many questions... but ill hold off for now. I want to keep her in fairly org condition, but bring her back to life.
So far shes got a completely new fuel system. she purs like a kitten
I rebuilt the carb on the kohler gen, so the generator runs... i guess that will be my first question
I got the roof ac unit working as well
this weekend will be her maiden voyage to cocoa beach
biggest question so far..
how do i run the ac off the generator? or anything for that matter. ive played with the breaker panel, but cant get any 110v inside
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:05 PM   #2
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Nice looking find.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:14 PM   #3
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Glad you're aboard. Congrats on the new to you vintage rig. Sorry I can't help with the electrical question. Great looking photos. I'd guess others will be along to help. Enjoy your adventures.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:16 PM   #4
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First welcome. My old C Classes both had an on shore plug that one plugs into the campground power stand. This plug has to be plugged into the plug in in the electrical bay so that the generator 110 Volt supply could be dispersed into the unit.

Look for a plug in location in your coach that the RV extension cord comes out of... If you can't find it I will attempt to get you a picture but my unit is not available for picture taking at the moment.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:23 PM   #5
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Welcome. There are several potential problems. One is the Automatically Applied Parking Brake (aapb). Another issue is tires. Battery issues, etc. Do a thread search on irv2 for any thing you can think of and you will have a lot of info. If you can't find answers by search, post your questions and you will receive lots of help.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maty111 View Post
hello everyone. Im new here....
this is my first rv. Ive always wanted this model, and ive found one in pretty good shape. I have so many questions... but ill hold off for now. I want to biggest question so far..
how do i run the ac off the generator? or anything for that matter. ive played with the breaker panel, but cant get any 110v inside
Maty,
The picture of your power panel is very telling.
Someone has made modifications to the AC systems. There are at least four breakers missing from the original configuration. I would suggest that you find a Winnie group for more help.

This may be something that you can correct on your own, but if it is not done properly it can create a very dangerous situation.

As another owner of an antique motorhome, I can tell you that it is great to have it running, but be ready for all the rubber parts to go bad. One of the frequently missed things is brake fluid. It is only good for about 3 years and after that it can damage the system.

Good luck

Matt
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:10 PM   #7
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thank you for the welcomes and responses

there is a cord, on the back left corner, i have plugged it in, and i have power to the rv
there is also a pig tail hanging off the generator
i can pull the cord out and plug it into the pigtail of the generator and i have power....
but, i dont think that is how it is supposed to work
yes the breaker panel doesnt look stock to me, but i cannot find anything, anywhere, on the wiring diagrams. its either going to be alot of diagnosis, or find some random friend at a rest stop with a minnie that i can take apart lol

also, for got to mention, i did replace the master cylinder, booster, and fluid
that was not fun..

thank u all again, and keep the info/suggestions coming

matt
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:39 PM   #8
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My opinion is MHs come with basic wiring system then altered for whatever accessories at the factory. Some even at the dealer before delivery. So will probably have to turn breakers on & off to see what each actually affects.
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Possum View Post
First welcome. My old C Classes both had an on shore plug that one plugs into the campground power stand. This plug has to be plugged into the plug in in the electrical bay so that the generator 110 Volt supply could be dispersed into the unit.

Look for a plug in location in your coach that the RV extension cord comes out of... If you can't find it I will attempt to get you a picture but my unit is not available for picture taking at the moment.
+1.

MH of this vintage likely wont have an automatic transfer switch. Your power cord will likely need to be plugged into the generator outlet.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:34 PM   #10
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More pics please. We love seeing original pics so we can see the improvements even if its just cleaning things up.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maty111 View Post
thank you for the welcomes and responses

there is a cord, on the back left corner, i have plugged it in, and i have power to the rv there is also a pig tail hanging off the generator
i can pull the cord out and plug it into the pigtail of the generator and i have power....
but, i dont think that is how it is supposed to work
yes the breaker panel doesnt look stock to me, but i cannot find anything, anywhere, on the wiring diagrams. its either going to be alot of diagnosis, or find some random friend at a rest stop with a minnie that i can take apart lol

also, for got to mention, i did replace the master cylinder, booster, and fluid that was not fun..

thank u all again, and keep the info/suggestions coming

matt
Matt,

You will not find many Winnies that old still on the road. If they have any water leaks, the wood framing will rot and then they collapse and repair is impractical. Warning.... Inspect the roof and windows regularly as rain can end this adventure with little warning.

That cord and pigtail was not uncommon at the time. It is the way GMCs were built for as long as they were built. If done properly, they can be completely enclosed when connected. This was a direct result of the campgrounds not changing to 50 as fast as everybody believed would happen. The discussion in the industry in the early 70s was that there would soon be no campgrounds that did not offer 50amp power. They were not too busy considering campground owner's economic issues. Ha!

What your coach was built with was a "Manual Transfer" and all it was composed of was the two pair of breakers (shore and internal) and an interfering slide that prevented both from being closed (on) at the same time. Many jurisdictions deemed this inadequate for safety. So, what some PO did was remove all four breakers and connect the shore power cable to the box buses. Why he removed all four, I cannot fathom. He also didn't bother to buy enough plugs.

Were I in your place....
I would get a pair of breakers with a rating roughly the same as the shore power cable and put them in the existing box spaces. Move the plugs to the open spaces. Now, pull the shore power conductors from the box busses and connect them to the new breakers. You now have a whole coach disconnect inside (very desirable) and the shore power cable protected from overload (also desirable).

Another thing that would be convenient would be to extend and relocate the receptacle on the APU (genset) "pigtail" to the same space that the shore power cable is stored. That way, you can leave the two connected and all you have to do to get power from the APU is start the APU.

I did a lot of this kind of work on expensive boats before the depression. Now I get to advise people with antique RVs, because our local economy is being held back by policies I can't understand. But, if you need more advise along this line, contact me through the @ddress you can find at <www.southpointechandler.com>. If you look carefully at the picture that is my avatar, you may guess why I draw this crowd. I don't mind it at all.

Matt
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:52 AM   #12
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Mattc, I almost bought one of the units you drive around in. Just could not negotiate a price agreeable to both the sellers and ourselves.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:24 AM   #13
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Mattc, I almost bought one of the units you drive around in. Just could not negotiate a price agreeable to both the sellers and ourselves.
Possum,

Too bad it didn't work out. These old beasts have a wide (includes Canada) support network and all the essential build data is available. So, issues like MattIII is having are non-issues. We are just back from a 4376 mile excursion that included a week-long convention with another 160+/- coaches.

Matt
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:16 AM   #14
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Maty111,
What MattC said about the manual breaker is correct. It came from Winnebago that way. However, I agree it is safer to plug the shore power cable either into a generator receptacle or the campsite post.
There are many of these ole eyebrow Winnies still on the road. Replacement tires can be a bit hard to find at times.
The "fuzzy" window felt is still available from Winnebago.
You need the 73 - 75 Dodge Service Manual (covers back to 69) and the 69 -77 Dodge Parts book. For parts the best approach is get the Dodge P/N from the parts book then cross ref it to the aftermarket P/N at the website for most parts houses. With 8 lug rims you have a M300 not a M375 chassis. You will either have a 318 or the optional 413.
If you still have the original converter, there are owners manual for it on the web.
Quote:
Automatically Applied Parking Brake (aapb).
Does not apply to the classic Dodge Class A Motorhome chassis. You will have manual hand operated via cable emergency brakes that are either in the rear drums or a drum attached to the rear of the transmission (most likely spot for 71/72).
Winnebago typically bought the chassis early so a 72 rig could be mounted on a 71 chassis. Find the Dodge VIN plate and decode it. Can make big difference in parts search.

Dave
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