75 Dodge Sportsman (western Commander) help TURN SIGNAL, DASHBOARD, AND FUSE PANEL?

[Lord Xzavyor]

Hello,


Glad to have a helpful forum,


OK so what I have is a 1975 dodge sportsmen (Western Commander).

I am experiencing issues with TURN SIGNALS (HALF FUNCTIONING.)

issues related found:


1) headlights are functional both turn signals work in the front left and right side with blinkers at the front only.

2)The rear tail light works only on the drivers side as well as the rear blinker.

3)The rear passengers side tail light is dead period looks like a "1 eyed stroke victim."

Underlining this issue there is 2 wires in the rear that are corroded, ate raw at by a old infestation of field mice.

I believe it's also hot wired in the back of door of Class C the tail lights as there is a long green wire that runs to one side of the tail light to the other.

(Has been swept clean, bleached down so that's not an issue) in addition has been resealed and checked for gaps/cracks.)

Took care of the pest issue my self already and there is no more of them.

Anyway back to the problems.....

4) when the headlight switch is pulled, the left turn signal "stays lit on the dash only."

It is also "not" the headlight switch I have thoroughly removed all the green rusty powder on it and in its connector.

Just made then headlights as well for that turn signal light "brighter."

5) the gauges all work after a little tlc but there is no dash lighting or fuel system.

Note: DOES NOT HAVE STARTING OR DRIVING PROBLEM PERIOD.

6) On the edge of the passengers side there is a red, white, and blue set of wires running up the edge of the window seal under a molding plate which (appears to be to the fuse box system/interior lighting.)


7) The cigarette lighter also has a tendency to blow a fuse every so few days as well. The radio is also tied in cig lighter, but due to its an older radio with only positive speaker feed it's wired on its own circuit with a toggle on off switch separate from lighter (led face stays lit.)

Which is why I separated it.


I Tech alot of these issues myself but additional help would help a lot.

Also can someone tell me where the grounding wires would be located for the tail lighting and the back of gauge cluster?


Thanks PTC

[WILDEBILL308]

It sounds like you need to splice in new wire where it is damaged and see if it lights up the tail light.
I would continue to clean all the contacts and connections of corrosion. I would look online for a wiring diagram. This will help you identify what wire goes where.
Bill

[Lord Xzavyor]

....eeeeeeeyeahh

e.e the diagrams the hardest part Chilton's the only one that has it.

It's a type of deal that I'd rather get for free...


Also I can't read a diagram for crap X,X need a visual photo off of a old b300 in addition I forgot to add that all the running overhead lights except that usual one in a few that's there on every TLC RV that are hanging on for dear life in limb and all the rest are broken.

Plan on purchasing 2 kits from harbor freight for $13.00- $17.99 each.


But those running lights couldn't be the issue as there is no metal to metal contact in that area.

As far as it being a motorhome, that make almost impossible as most of the RV'S have been rewired or holding on for dear life and limb.

I do know it had the sealing torn off at one point as indicated by the speaker wires when I pulled the backs the other day they are thick gauge bright red but not attached yet at the deck.

I did something the other day that gave me a response from the rear speaker out-of one of those 3 wires red white and blue wires.


The dog took off and jumped in my lap off of static.

[Skip426]

I have these, wiring diagram for a 73, hope they help . other issue may be in the wiring bulk head connectors as per the photo.
Turn indicator on with headlights probably a bad ground for that corner of the coach.

[Lord Xzavyor]

Thank you! Now someone's cooking with gas BTW update I found out the red white and blue was the speaker wires ad-libbed but I ended having to rewire the vintage deck grounded to the body for the speakers.

The fuse box (western commander) is my main concern now and still with the tail lights on the passengers side.

The red wire goes to the switch in the glove box.

I have to move in a couple of days you know those corner side beepers who trip ball sacks cause their lame and probably do drugs anyway.

I am not worried but I feel bad for the two rvs in front they don't start and have fake tabs.

Oh well, anyway is the fuse box grounded at the bolt that hold it to the dash cause that is rusted to crap for sure.

The actual fuse slots have been cleaned with sand paper.

What ever the issue is, it's still affecting the cigarette lighter/ stereo circuit.

Could be a bad dash voltage regulator??

I am prepping to rip out the old tail light wiring, rewired the rear and it just blown the bulb so pretty much going to cut it out at the nub and rewire under the cab.


The 110-120v circuit works fine via generator but does not power the ceiling interior lights.

There is possibly a dome light short when tighting up the screws to the cab light it lit up so I had to unscrew it again.


What ever the issue is in the overhead cab floor which is getting ready to be stripped because of the floor dry rot from a old leak that has stopped but the wood doesn't dry cause it's too spongy near then passenger side cab over window.


(Full wiring harness bulk is located behind the panel in the cab behind the drivers side..)


Looks healthy for its age but the new speaker wires stick out like a sore thumb on the harness.


Last but not least going to have to check that diagram to find the ground spots thought about pulling all bolts that have single wires and sanding them with sanding block.

[Lord Xzavyor]

Originally Posted by Skip426

I have these, wiring diagram for a 73, hope they help . other issue may be in the wiring bulk head connectors as per the photo.
Turn indicator on with headlights probably a bad ground for that corner of the coach.

In addition to your photo my harness plugs are leftus and the far right does not have anything plugged in it. I will relay photos in the am.

[Lord Xzavyor]

So I got that photo of my harness plugins in addition,

I've concluded the wiring to the tail light passenger is (dead) only works to blow bulbs again.

The color code on the passenger tail light is dark brown and dark green.

Decided to consider the whole circuit a whole waste of space.


Dead circuit, dead by age, and just plain dead.

Spruced up and checked some more lighting and found that

My door jam switch to the dome has dry rotted away, the original wiring has been found under the hood under twist tabs.

The white wires go to those as under the hood it's broken smooth off on both sides, the wire can be cut closer to the switches to the door jams and rewired due to its in a unweatherable place in the fenders.

The passenger side front tail marker has a seized light bulb so it needs to be disconnected and soaked in baking soda and vinegar to break the hold on the bulb. (Still works but when it chooses to.)

The passenger and drivers rear side markers are both dry rotted out. But are plastic so they don't receive a restoration second chance (garbage feed for Auto hood rats.)


Last but not least, if anyone has an idea what the "steering column color code" is for the (right turn signal, brake lamp light and reverse light for the passengers side.)

include it in your next message please here is the photo of my under hood harness that I said I'd put out today..

[6x16inside]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Still not having luck with my turn signals so I bought these pretty new side markers and figure I can just carefully turn the signal off and on to act like a blinker, LOL

Originally Posted by Lord Xzavyor

....eeeeeeeyeahh

e.e the diagrams the hardest part Chilton's the only one that has it.

It's a type of deal that I'd rather get for free...


Also I can't read a diagram for crap X,X need a visual photo off of a old b300 in addition I forgot to add that all the running overhead lights except that usual one in a few that's there on every TLC RV that are hanging on for dear life in limb and all the rest are broken.

Plan on purchasing 2 kits from harbor freight for $13.00- $17.99 each.


But those running lights couldn't be the issue as there is no metal to metal contact in that area.

As far as it being a motorhome, that make almost impossible as most of the RV'S have been rewired or holding on for dear life and limb.

I do know it had the sealing torn off at one point as indicated by the speaker wires when I pulled the backs the other day they are thick gauge bright red but not attached yet at the deck.

I did something the other day that gave me a response from the rear speaker out-of one of those 3 wires red white and blue wires.


The dog took off and jumped in my lap off of static.

[Lord Xzavyor]

Planned on just rewiring one side and then just change the tail light on the other since its functional, thing is I need to be splicing into my column harness the ignition is not apart of the lighting harness in dodge non column tilt in 72-75.

[Lord Xzavyor]

Originally Posted by 6x16inside

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Still not having luck with my turn signals so I bought these pretty new side markers and figure I can just carefully turn the signal off and on to act like a blinker, LOL

Planned on just rewiring one side and then just change the tail light on the other since its functional, thing is I need to be splicing into my column harness or peeling back my paneling on the passengers side that should reveal where the tail light wires are.

Time bonding has helped me figure out a lot on this rig...



The ignition is not apart of the lighting harness in dodge non column tilt in 72-75.

I need to chop the dome light cause now the cut fuse blows instantly now .

it has shorting issues I notice after having to remove a rotted cheap ass partial board overhead cab floor I'm lucky the misses finally allowed me to chuck the raggity new mattress up there so it's due for fresh wood hands down OSB IS king next to partial board.

Cab front end needs sealing work.

People take water damage seriously but I don't especially this type cause there is no center wall damage. Cab over rebuild is pretty simple.

The floor structure survived well I caught it just in time.

I like the fiber bodies a bit more then the aluminium models.

[Lord Xzavyor]

The faulty, turn signal issue has been solved come to find out once I cut the original cigarette lighter of the power circuit to install the new external 18 gauge extension cigarette lighter extension the problem has vanished the issue was between the stereo and lighter....

Still no right turn signal but I will hetero the bottom of it.

[76TitanMini]

Originally Posted by Lord Xzavyor

The faulty, turn signal issue has been solved come to find out once I cut the original cigarette lighter of the power circuit to install the new external 18 gauge extension cigarette lighter extension the problem has vanished the issue was between the stereo and lighter....

Still no right turn signal but I will hetero the bottom of it.

I had the same problem with mine and it turned out to be a poor ground to the front signal housings.

Also while you're digging around back there, make sure your cluster is well connected. I had to re-solder all of my connections.

[Lord Xzavyor]

Originally Posted by 76TitanMini

I had the same problem with mine and it turned out to be a poor ground to the front signal housings.

Also while you're digging around back there, make sure your cluster is well connected. I had to re-solder all of my connections.

Cool well I have good news, turns out that it was a screw at the rear that was close to the bore hole that had poor connection to the tin it was at a broken corner to the tin so...

I swapped the screw to the position where the missing reverse light is when I tested it on the multi meter I got 11.58 volts from the red wire and tapped the side of the ground of the meter to the gutter railing down the back.

The reverse marker will need to be replaced as the green wire is free hanging.


I still get no dash light illumination,

But I'll check my boarder connections, as well I no longer have issues with the turn signals period.


It stopped the day I partial pulled the steering wheel to check the code of the turn signal can wires that and I cleaned the board with 120 grit sand paper.

In addition, previously no had disassembled the high beam headlight switch which was full of green powder so sanded and electrical connector cleaner.

Did them in this order:

1) "Head light switch cleaning and did not stop it, but made the light brighter."

"More reviewed as maintenance."

2) Removed the horn cover, and holder
(Covered face and blew out the dust out."

"Not sure if that did it...."

3) removed disabled the cigarette lighter main power, due to shorting excessively and put the radio on its own new 15amp fused circuit.

"That may have been it but I do know the night before I tested the system." Before cutting it's hot wire, it did still trigger the bulb when the left turn signal. But that next morning after cutting later that night move time it did not do it anymore

Anyway back to the dash what and where is the voltage regulator on this model?
For the dash that is, and is there a chance the pin system may be off by a single turn, funny as it may sound I picture a timing chain really...

[Lord Xzavyor]

Thanks all for help I have resolved all the major lighting issues have been repaired here's a tip for those who are else in need:


Brake light tech:

Check your ground location/surface,

Clean rusted areas/screws (some lights ground to the body),

Always test your power wire for 12-14v.


Side marker lighting tech (for plastic bodies):

1) if it's chipped or rusted chuck it in the garbage!

2) clean all screws or replace them. (Can be grounded to body)

3) use option A or B for this hook up.

A. Attach power wire to break/turn. signal light so that the turn signal will blink when you flip you cam switch.

Note:
Do not do this if your system isn't set up to run by all the time.

If your side markers stay lit all the time then this is fine.

B) Attach your power wire to two diodes so it doesn't illuminate when you press your brakes.

I have used method A since my front lights already stay on.


Master note: BEFORE PLUGGING ANYTHING UP ALWAYS TEST YOUR POWER WIRE WITH A MULTIMETER!

Save your self time and money on bulbs.


Check our next document on installing running cab lights.