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Old 06-01-2015, 12:08 AM   #1
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79 Chieftan

Hello all My parents bought a nightmare a former tailgate party rv for Husker games. Wired by I would imagine drunk tailgating football fans lol. At first seemed OK everything audio was taken out except wiring. They went camping last year had, everything worked. Now nothing, found fusable link was the cause. Now new roof a/c won't work. Generator works, they use extension cord with special adapter to plug into house. Has original invertor/convertor. Just an electrical gremlin, rear park lights won't shut off unless battery is disconnected. My parents are almost 70 and I have been trying to fix. When gen is running everything works except roof ac. I noticed on invertor the last fuse has a wire that is connected to an empty fuse below. I know you should only do that in case of emergencies. The thing is there isn't anything on the panel that says anything about what fuse or breaker is for what. So anyone that can help is grately appreciated.
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:20 AM   #2
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That battery keeping the taillights on while not hooked to TV has me concerned and sounds like a short somewhere in system. Especially since you say it worked good last year.

Go along bottom of trailer to see if any wires have chaffed through their plastic sleeve and shorted against any metal or another wire.

Now look inside around the converter AND where wires come through the trailer to see if anything seems not quite right.

Tracking down shorts and such is a pain, but you have to eliminate what looks like the easiest/cheapest or most obvious first, before moving on.

Please let us know if you found anything with the wiring.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:28 AM   #3
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Oh I have seem to be going through tons of wire looking for frayed or pinched. Like some one hooked up a horn and ran the wire through the adjustment for the tilt steering wheel. Like under dash finding all kinds of hot wires. Just don't want it to burst into flames driving down the road. Thanks fpor everyones help.
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:57 PM   #4
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Well further digging I discovered all the lenses had water in them so much it formed alergia and blocked drain holes cause it wasn't parked on flat ground it was on Lil downslope. Onto roof A/C I took apart converter box and was checking everything and took one of the breakers out and a wire popped out it was in a screw on cap with 3 other wires. I couldn't wrap then together cause they were to thick. so I put them together again and screwed the cap back on. I started the generator and a/c was working again. My mom was in there and I didn't button up the service panel and she bumped the the door and it sparked and caused the Genny to shut off. I noticed one of the breakers which is a 30/15 rattles when you shake it plus it won't sit back in place the copper which the top slides into. It looks older than the other two. I am no electrician but that doesn't sound normal the others don't do that. So I need to find a block so I can connect all of them wires together and replace the breaker. So after all that work, my mom said when they moved it that brakes weren't working like they should. That it was hard to stop the pedal would go to the floor but they would have use their foot to pull it back up. I have no clue about big RVs when it come to brakes I don't even know which way the parking brake is set or not. OK so there is my update. I noticed this rv can run on propane too, but told them to stick with gas cause the only thing I know about propane is my barbeque and lanterns lol
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:05 AM   #5
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Take your time Huskerchief. Sounds like you're onto something and have found a problem with the breaker and it's wiring. Loose wiring and arcing will make things overheat, so make sure everything is buttoned down tight and solid.

As to the RV's brake pedal needing help to return to the up position, is a return spring has broken or slipped off it's connection point up under the dash or off the brake pedal arm.

Brake pedal going to floor is sign of either broken brake line/hose and all fluid has leaked out and probably drained out of one side of Master Cylinder, or the Brake Booster has a ruptured/cracked diaphram. It works off vacuum from the engine. Being a '79, it uses a DOT3 fluid.

I'm thinking/hoping your '79 Chieftain isn't an air brake system, which is a whole other animal that would require qualified mechanic to check/work on.

Either way, something needs replaced, fixed before getting out on road.

You NEED the WHOA just as much as the GIDDY UP.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:06 PM   #6
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Well today I got them 4 wires secured so the won't pop out. I tried starting onan generator and it won't start, will start and run a few seconds if put fuel directly into spark plug. Pulled off fuel line blew through it I can hear the bubbles in tank sucked a big mouth full of fuel. Had fuel line off and & started it but can't feel any suction on the intake side of fuel pump its says 5.5-9 psi. I tried taking of other end of fuel line off but I can get the dang thing loose afraid of busting the line. I have sprayed pb blaster on it and will try again tomorrow. There is a reset button on it in case of overload pressed it but I don't know its supposed to click or anything don't know if that's the reason why it won't run. So there is my update for now.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:05 AM   #7
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OK Huskerchief, as to fuel pressure, you'll have pressure ONLY on the fuel pump "outlet"(carb side). If you have pressure on the suction side(fuel tank side), that tells me the fuel lines are routed incorrect. Which I doubt very much.

Some pumps work off pump arms and some work off vacuum pulse tube. If your's is bolted onto engine, it's pump arm actuated. If pump is square and plastic, it's a vacuum pulse pump, but both put out around same fuel poundage to carb.

I have a commercial lawn mower and it has an Onan P220G engine, which is probably what you have---but yours isn't electronic ignition.

If you have a pressure of 5.5-9 pounds, you have a good pump. These pumps are NOT high pressure. Anything higher and you'll blow the carb's float seat.

At least you have good spark and engine will run if putting fuel in spark plug holes.

What the problem probably is, is a clogged passage in the carburetor, which meThat means a rebuild kit, so when carb is off, you'll need the ID number(s) off it to get correct carb kit. ans the carb needs to come off and thoroughly cleaned out and thin, but stiff wire run in the passage holes to knock out any grit or whatnot. I use a can of compressed computer air to help me when I do carbs, as it's handy and has good pressure to help blow out passages.

After all these years, you DEFINITELY need to replace all fuel lines as they've deteriorated from age, ethanol in fuel, and from just sitting and collecting debris from pump gas over time.

DO NOT rebuild and put the carburetor onto engine and try to start with these old fuel lines. You'll immediately get another clogged carb if you do.


I truly hope you can make this all out, as what I typed and what posted is scrambled.
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Old 06-13-2015, 01:26 AM   #8
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Well got a new pump and I thought why not try it again. It started and ran for a few for about 15 seconds. I pulled the fuel line from the pump and it was getting fuel, so I replaced line. Then tried to start but would crank but wouldn't start. So I pulled breather off and put my hand over the carb and it would start but for only about 20 seconds. Did this for about 20 min. So I pulled hose off fuel line and stuck it in a quart jar with fuel and seafoam. It seem to run for about 30 seconds then die, so I kept doing that till jar almost empty jar wasn't full about half. But the only time it would run is when I had my hand on carb and then it would start. I think its time to rebuild carb. The only fuel line that I seen that was rubber was the one I replaced. How does gen run off of fuel tanks? How does it switch when you switch tanks? I need to find out how to remove carb it can't be simple can it. I never use ethanol in anything I pay a quarter more. I have a Saturn and don't want to give up my 40+ mpg, 300k same engine same clutch. Thanks for your knowledge Jayco, it is greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:48 AM   #9
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Your putting your hand over the carb and choking it, proves my suspecions. It's the carb just like I said. It will run then die. You have grit in some of the fuel passages.

A rebuild is next. You will need to remove the air filter housing and fuel line.

Then remove 2 bolts that hold carb to manifold. Once removed you will be able to order new rebuild kit for it. I would put a inline fuel filter between the tank and pump to help keep out future debris(change every year).

The carb will either be a Walbro or Nikki carb. You will find the name and some numbers on side of it that determines what kit you'll need. Don't forget to also get the carb to manifold gasket(if kit doesn't include). You can get a carb kit from a lawnmower shop, but they may need to order it for you and can help you with any other parts needed or help rebuild carb if needed.

There's many youtube videos available to show how to rebuild and other such vids if needed. If you have doubts, let someone else help.

Parts for these old Onan's are expensive as they were commercial engines and are no longer made.
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Old 06-16-2015, 07:25 AM   #10
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carb

Is there a better way to get at the top of the engine or do I just take it out from the side. These steel lines haven't been off in decades. Can I just replace and cut the out? Thanks again for your help
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:34 PM   #11
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OK got it off, its a walbro and the only number I see is 279 just below walbro. I see some others to the left its a 7 I think 8 above it. They appear to be double stamped. Am I looking in the right spot?
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:22 PM   #12
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OK figured it out its a walbro lua 7 so anyone know where I can get a kit that doesn't cost an arm and leg.
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Old 06-17-2015, 01:02 AM   #13
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OOOOOH WEEEEE! You're right. Cheapest kit I found is $125 on Ebay for kit #146-0292 for the Walbro LUA 7. Kit also fits others.

Let me look some more, I might find a new carb for better deal. Sorry, nothing.


OK, call this number 1-800-755-4775. PPL Motor Home. They carry parts for Onan Generators.


Have the Model # and Serial # that's on the "engine plate ID" available, for them to see what they have. Can't guarantee they'll have anything for vintage, but it's worth a try. Might even get a manufacturer's stock carb number or a cross reference number to find a new carb for exact replacement.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:14 PM   #14
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Well I called that number several times and been on hold for over 20 min I just gave up. So I am in the process of rebuilding my self and going to make my own gaskets. I took the manifold off too and (the one the carb is bolted to) there isn't a gasket that under them two bolts on each side of the cylinder head. I double checked its just metal to metal. I have the service manual for the Onan so I hope to get back together and on tomorrow if it isn't raining.
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