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Hondo68 · 07-11-2019, 01:12 PM

Any help is appreciated. Just bought super clean, garaged 83 HR 14000 miles for $3500 Front left brake sticks on after a few pumps of the brake. Changed caliper, wheel spins free, bled brakes and took for test. Starts out rolling fine, then slight pull to left then after a few uses of brake, complete lock up and super hot. After sitting all nite, I can pop the rig forward and it rolls free but as soon as it drives a bit with brake use, it locks back up. Gonna change brake lines today. Any suggestions?? Thanks--Hans

MinntoMich · 07-11-2019, 01:19 PM

Welcome to the fourm. I have changed brakes on GM's before and without being there and seeing what exactly your describing I can give only this advice... Have you replaced your brake hose to the sticking brake in question? It kinda sounds like your brake hose is collapsing. Good luck and post a follow up if you can.

450Donn · 07-11-2019, 01:47 PM

Also dont overlook the wheel bearings. A hot bearing could be causing problems.

Mojim · 07-11-2019, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MinntoMich

Welcome to the fourm. I have changed brakes on GM's before and without being there and seeing what exactly your describing I can give only this advice... Have you replaced your brake hose to the sticking brake in question? It kinda sounds like your brake hose is collapsing. Good luck and post a follow up if you can.

I agree

Hondo68 · 07-11-2019, 01:49 PM

Thanks MM. I am replacing lines today and hopefully that is my problem Thanks for the reply, I will post an update. This is my first RV.....

Hondo68 · 07-11-2019, 01:51 PM

Thanks for bearing advise, I will check that. When you say hot bearing, do you mean so hot there is no grease? Thanks

MinntoMich · 07-11-2019, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 450Donn

Also dont overlook the wheel bearings. A hot bearing could be causing problems.

This happened to me on a M-body Chrysler LeBaron. Could not figure it out for the longest time but it was in fact a bad front wheel bearing. No connection to breaking however.

As per 450Donn's post I would check/replace or repack your front wheel bearings too. Its on my list.

Ahh the 1st one... Such a learning curve and lots to do.

rodekyll · 07-11-2019, 02:22 PM

On a rig that old and unused everything needs maintenance before you try to roll it. As this problem shows, it's a project, not a runner. Keep in mind that there's only 14k miles on it (400 miles/year avg) for a reason. Until it's been gone through you should consider neither safe nor reliable. Keep in mind that how good it runs is completely secondary to how well it stops. Assume it's all original -- including the fluid -- and everything is shot. Assume that the soft parts are perished, the wet stuff is contaminated, and the hard bits are pitted. Your first order of business should be a complete brake job -- calipers, cylinders, wheel bearings and seals, soft lines, and a complete fluid flush. You should be looking for bits to replace and reasons to replace them. The affordability might impress you.

That approach should be repeated for all essential systems. A single, preventable rolling failure could cost more than the rig did. If it results in an accident, it could cost you everything.

$0.02

Waiter21 · 07-11-2019, 03:39 PM

Replace the hoses. If you replace one, you may as well replace them all.. The hoses break down inside and de-laminate, the little rubber hose piece then starts acting like a one way valve, It allows fluid to flow one way, but not the other. hence it holds the brakes applied.

You can verify this is happening if you can reach the bleeder screw. When the wheel is locking up, simply open the bleeder screw for a second. If fluid shoots out and the brake releases, BAM, you got it.

Personally, if these are original hose, I'd replace them regardless.