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Old 07-11-2007, 10:27 AM   #15
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P.S. No one I called in the DFW area has a wheel dyno that will accommodate the 28' motor home.
Most of the official Cummins shops have dynos that will accommodate you, but I believe they charge $200-$300 for a test.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:29 AM   #16
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Originally posted by Don Juane:
Looks like I am on my own with this one. The local Chevy dealer doesn't want if it its not stock cam and all the local speed shops don't want to mess with it.

Anyone near Lewisville, TX a good mechanic and bored :-)?
Hmmm, Thats BS cuz that is a smog legal cam and since I don't know what the LSA is it still should sound like a stock cam......
Drive around to some muffler shops and find out where the "gear heads" are and take names & numbers, They will know someone who can work on it.

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Old 07-11-2007, 03:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Don Juane:
P.S. No one I called in the DFW area has a wheel dyno that will accomodate the 28' motor home.
Vacuum checkouts

Not knowing what tools or skills you have the above site will tell much with a nice vacuum gauge.

Jim
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Old 07-15-2007, 02:31 PM   #18
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Don Juane, You have any luck with that motor yet?? Give us a update!
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:00 AM   #19
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For difficult problems, installing an O2 sensor right after the manifold and reading it with a voltmeter can tell you if your mixture is correct.

How is the inlet filter on the Qjet? Properly installed, they should not restrict fuel flow even if clogged, but if put in wrong or with a too-strong spring, a clog can restrict fuel entry.

There is a way to check the Qjet float level on the engine, but you gotta buy Doug Roe's book to see the pictures.
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:29 AM   #20
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Hi Bill
Found another and maybe a better book on the "Rochester Quads" written by Cliff Ruggles. The book number is (SA113) and I dug out a dab more milage but now need to really trim the air/fuel jets (leaner) BUT not e'nuf to reach into the heat for now

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Old 07-30-2007, 09:21 PM   #21
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Originally posted by Jim_Elliott:
Hi Bill
Found another and maybe a better book on the "Rochester Quads" written by Cliff Ruggles. The book number is (SA113) and I dug out a dab more milage but now need to really trim the air/fuel jets (leaner) BUT not e'nuf to reach into the heat for now

Jim
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:52 AM   #22
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Bill, This book has more pictures

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Old 08-04-2007, 01:42 PM   #23
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Hey, Don Juane, any luck with that coach?? Updates??
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:54 PM   #24
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Coach still sitting in the driveway. Working on recovering from surgury :-(. It sux to get old!!!!
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:18 AM   #25
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Good news is, the power loss problem is fixed. How I got there is a long story. I will give the short version or at least "my" short version.

I went looking for someone who could help me with the problem and stayed on the phone 2 days searching. No one would touch a motor with the modified "RV cam", especially dealers I phoned and anyone who works on stock motor homes. Giving up, I started out phoning around the racing circuit and that led me down a dark path as well. By luck, however, I finally found a man in Rowlette TX who is a retired engineer and whose hobby now is building race cars for bored Dubia sheiks (seriously). He also is a frequent participant in Indy. If I were listening to myself, at this point, I would think I was making this stuff up. His 3 car air conditioned garage and his semi motor-home with a 2 story trailer (race cars on top, shop on lower floor) proved it. (You read it right, he has a motor coach that is pulled by a semi tractor!)

The reason he volunteered to help me was he said once back when he had a smaller setup he used a RV cam in a duly he used to tow race cars. He worked for years trying to get that engine performing properly. He said first of all he learned, never put a RV cam in anything and second of all, if I was not willing to go to the trouble and expense of putting the stock cam back in, he would help me try to work with what I had. First thing he did when I got there was drill a hole in my exhaust manifold and weld on a brass nut. He installed an oxygen sensor in my manifold. He asked me to "drive it" while he tuned my timing by ear as I accelerated and climbed the small hills around his neighborhood (out in the boonies). He then started adjusting my carburetor while watching his oxygen meter. Then we made several runs to test my altered secondary quadrajet needles. He would remove my needles and put them on his lathe and cut them back until the 4 barrel mixture was right.

We marveled at how much more power he had given me with an hour's work and decided it was ready to try. He asked me to let him know how it worked on my next trip to Colorado and we would go from there. I left shortly after that driving to Colorado and found that I was passing all the 18 wheelers on the way up Rotan pass hitting around 50MPH (last trip I could barely make 20MPH). He had also suggested I wind out the motor to at least 4K RPM (which I was holding way back on before) and use a lower gear while staying under 5K RPM. He said the RV Cam would not even develop any horsepower till around 3500 RPM and up.

After passing Raton with flying colors, I was all set to take on some more steep climbing tests on this trip but I started vapor locking like crazy and stayed put rather than head on toward Monarch pass. Then on the way home in west Texas, the fuel pump went out. I have a suspicion that this was what was causing my vapor lock problem, but I won't know until I try again next summer with a new one.
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Old 10-31-2007, 03:28 PM   #26
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Yep, I know what you mean. I'm glad you have figured out what was happening with that puppy. I'm still waiting for mine. I will be busy for awhile once we do get it back! It's just boring waiting for the beast!
Hope ya get over whatever you had and can get back to having fun again!!
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