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Old 07-12-2016, 07:51 PM   #1
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84 Ford Tioga - fuel vapor line - change to rubber or leave alone?

RV: 1984 Tioga Ford Econoline E350, 7.5L 460 4bl, carburated - not EFI

Related post: 1984 Ford Tioga Class C - Emissions Evap System Help

Is it better to replace all the evap system fuel vapor lines from the tank to the carb with rubber hoses?

Or leave the system as is, which has alternating sections of metal tubing and rubber hose? Also noted that no hose clamps were used at the joints when rubber and metal tubing meet.

Any feedback would be appreciated?
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:52 AM   #2
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fuel vapor lines

I would leave them as they are the tube is heat protection for the rubber hose
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:07 AM   #3
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Is it failing testing?

They now pressurize the tank and pinch the hose to the canister to check for leaks.

Be sure correct hose pinched...

If leaking often it is the fill hose from cap to tank that cracks.

To test locate vent hose at canister and attach fitting to allow air hose to connect then set regulator for maybe 1 psi as you do not want to blow up anything.

Have the hose a slip fit so it will blow itself off.
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Old 07-14-2016, 01:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52motorscoot View Post
I would leave them as they are the tube is heat protection for the rubber hose
After looking closer, I noticed that the metal tubing sections of the vapor line runs in areas near the engine, so I can see your point. Thanks
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:11 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Is it failing testing?

They now pressurize the tank and pinch the hose to the canister to check for leaks.

Be sure correct hose pinched...

If leaking often it is the fill hose from cap to tank that cracks.

To test locate vent hose at canister and attach fitting to allow air hose to connect then set regulator for maybe 1 psi as you do not want to blow up anything.

Have the hose a slip fit so it will blow itself off.
Yes, it is failing the EVAP pressure test portion of the smog check.

I was wondering how they test the EVAP since the canisters are not air tight.

Good suggestion on checking the fuel filler hose.

I will conduct the pressure test as suggested but I don't know what a "slip fit" is or how to perform this action.
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:11 PM   #6
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Slip fit is just that.

First find the hose in the engine compartment that is attached to the canister.

Should be maybe 2 with one going to engine and one going into abyss.

Pull from canister and find some fitting that slides into the hose but will slip off if gently pulled.

This will allow some safety if something goes goofy with your air supply and over pressure will cause hose to self disconnect.

To test for correct hose apply air then remove gas cap and listen for air noise.

You also may have a tank top vent where a small hose attaches to filler neck by cap and goes to where gage sender is located.

Also note if you have a genny the old fuel pumps and hard line also may leak so replace the line and add a ball valve at the generator end on the tank side of genny fuel pump so that can be shut off solid for smog and may be safer that way.

Be sure to add to check list to close valve for smog testing.

Do use a seperate regulator that can be attached to end of hose as this may allow you to hear air passing.

Good luck and plenty of soapy water...
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:17 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Slip fit is just that.

First find the hose in the engine compartment that is attached to the canister.

Should be maybe 2 with one going to engine and one going into abyss.

Pull from canister and find some fitting that slides into the hose but will slip off if gently pulled.

This will allow some safety if something goes goofy with your air supply and over pressure will cause hose to self disconnect.

To test for correct hose apply air then remove gas cap and listen for air noise.

You also may have a tank top vent where a small hose attaches to filler neck by cap and goes to where gage sender is located.

Also note if you have a genny the old fuel pumps and hard line also may leak so replace the line and add a ball valve at the generator end on the tank side of genny fuel pump so that can be shut off solid for smog and may be safer that way.

Be sure to add to check list to close valve for smog testing.

Do use a seperate regulator that can be attached to end of hose as this may allow you to hear air passing.

Good luck and plenty of soapy water...

Sounds like a good plan and I am on it. Thanks and I'll give update soonest!!
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Old 07-16-2016, 04:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by johnjrod View Post
Sounds like a good plan and I am on it. Thanks and I'll give update soonest!!
I conducted a pressure test today and found a leaky evap fuel vapor line at the top of the fuel tank. Not sure if that is the only leak so have to fix that one first.

The hose clamp --- to remove the leaky fuel vapor hose -- is not easily accessible so I may have to drop the fuel tank to get at that hose clamp.

If dropping the fuel tank is required, I will definitely change the other hoses while they are accessible, namely: the fuel filler hose, the fuel filler vent/overflow hose, the hose from the fuel pump that connects to the top of the tank, as well as the fuel vapor hose.

Then I will conduct a pressure test before placing the fuel tank back in place to ensure there are no other leaks which would only leave the fuel tank.

Thanks for the help so far. Will update soonest!
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