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Old 06-25-2012, 06:29 PM   #1
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85 pace arrow electric help please

I have two outlets that don't work, the outlet for the microwave and the outlet in the kitchen.

I have four circuit breakers on the converter and they have all checked out ok. I don't see a seperate circuit for the m/w, and am wondering if it could be located somewhere else? I also checked all the dc system fuses and everything is working there, too. I don't see any fuses or breakers for the house system anywhere else. I have all the manuals and can't find anything on the microwave electrical system. Any help is very welcome, thanks!
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:35 PM   #2
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Did you check for any GFI outlets that might have tripped?
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:41 PM   #3
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I did, I have one GFI in the bathroom and I reset it just to make sure, but got nothing
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ideagirl View Post
I did, I have one GFI in the bathroom and I reset it just to make sure, but got nothing
Did you trip it before you reset it? There is a definitive click when you trip it. There has to be power to the MH before that can happen.
Also did you check the outside outlet?
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:32 PM   #5
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Did you open the outside compartment for the fridge? There is an outlet in there, could be a tripped GFCI.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:52 PM   #6
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Hi, thanks for the responses. I did trip the GFI before I reset it, it is working fine. The porch outlet is working fine. The fridge compartment does have an outlet in it, it is not GFI. It is working fine. I did poke around in there for another breaker or something but didn't see anything. I have the manual with a wiring diagram in it but it doesn't show the microwave in the system at all. A wiring diagram would help, am looking for one now. I appreciate the suggestions, keep 'em coming, I am sure this is a simple fix I'm just not sure where else to look
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:31 PM   #7
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Do you have an inverter? (not a con-verter: an INverter). The inverter usually has breakers on it, and the inverter normally controls only a few outlets.

Also, check for an extra GFIC outlet in the hall or bedroom.

Its also possible that the 2 dead outlets are daisy chained, and the first one has a bad connection, thereby killing the second. It would only take a few minutes to check the wiring on both of them (made sure you are unplugged from shore power first and that you DON'T have an inverter)
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:36 PM   #8
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It is definitely a converter, it says "UL listed power converter" on the front. It has four labeled breakers. I can't find any other GFI outlets, I did check all over. This coach has very few outlets, and only one GFI that I have found. How would I go about checking the wiring on the bad outlets?
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:45 PM   #9
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If it helps, the GFI circuit is on the breaker labeled "general purpose." I have reset that breaker a few times.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:51 PM   #10
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They are identical to the outlets in your house.
Make sure they are not energized and remove the face plate.
Remove the screws in the little ears top and bottom.
Gently pull/wiggle the outlet out an inch or two.
There will be a white wire, a black wire and a bare copper wire. These should all be FIRMLY connected to the outlet.
If the wires or outlet are burned or pulled loose, I would purchase a new outlet with the push-in style connections and just replace, rather than trying to recrimp the old wire on the old outlet.

It wouldn't hurt a thing to replace them anyway- costs just a few bucks.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:59 PM   #11
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I would be pretty confident that there will be no hidden mysterious breakers anywhere but in your power control panel (except for the breakers on your generator, and (if you had one) on your inverter).

One of your 4 breakers controls these bad outlets, plus probably something else. Have you attempted to identify exactly what is controlled by which breaker? Always a good thing to check. Just pop one breaker at a time and then go around and see whats not working.

You may find that one breaker is responsible for your microwave and the kitchen outlet ONLY, in which case I would suspect the breaker is bad, rather than the outlets themselves.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:04 PM   #12
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ok, can't do that tonight but I will check those first thing in the morning. If I pull the outlets and the wiring seems fine, is there anything else I can do to test the wiring? I have an appointment at the RV shop for some engine stuff Friday, so I could always have them do it, but I would prefer to tackle this on my own in case it comes up in the future. I have installed many an electrical thingy in my house over the years, but never had to troubleshoot an electrical problem.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:31 PM   #13
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Do you have a multimeter? The 110 volt AC system in your MH is pretty straight forward (unless it has been "improved" at some point by a previous owner).

If you don't have a meter:

I urge you to check the breakers again- I'm betting what you'll see is a 20 amp or 30 amp breaker which controls the air conditioner, one or two 15 amp general purpose (which is probably most or all of the other outlets) and a 20 amp breaker that controls the microwave and galley outlet ( and this would be the breaker that may be causing your issues). Just because the breaker clicks back and forth does not mean it is functional.

Click this 20 amp breaker to OFF and see if there is anything else which quits working (i.e. the fridge or more outlets). If nothing else quits working with this breaker off, you have successfully identified this circuit as being the micro/galley-ONLY circuit. If something else goes off, it is the micro/galley/whatever circuit , and this shows that the breaker is fine, so the problem exists in the outlets/wiring themselves.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:42 PM   #14
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just checked the breakers, there is one 20 amp circuit lableld portable appliances. The fridge is on this circuit. I flipped the breaker and the microwave came on and the other outlet worked. Then they went off again. I tried turning the fridge off and flipping the breaker a few more times and they bad outlets did not come back on, but the fridge is working fine.

It isn't the original fridge, it is a mid-90s model. Could it be that 20 amps is not enough to run the fridge plus other outlets? I found a manual for the newer fridge but haven't found an amp rating on it.
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