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08-12-2009, 01:23 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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'86 Elandan starting issues
This is probably a no brainer to some of you. I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is, but I'd like to bounce it off of some others.
454 Chevy engine. Starts fine when cold, but then won't start back when it warms up. It'll crank VERY slowly sometimes, but other times the solenoid will just click (weakly). Trickle charging the battery doesn't seem to help; the only thing that seems to make it start better is letting it sit long enough to cool off. Jumping it doesn't help, either.
So.....starter problem, or connection to the starter, or....?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
p.
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08-12-2009, 01:38 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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How about the ground strap from motor to chassis frame and ground wire from battery to frame!!
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08-12-2009, 01:42 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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I thought about the grounding strap, but I checked it and it appears to be fine. Not half rusted or half there, good solid connection to the frame and the motor.....
I gave the battery ground a once over, but I could have missed a loose connection. I'll give that a shot and see. Thanks for the suggestions!
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08-12-2009, 04:32 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Sometime the brushes & armatures just wear down to the point it's time for a rebuild or new starter.......
I prefer the high torque mini starters and place a heat shield between the starter & exhaust manifold.....
Jim
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08-12-2009, 05:00 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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Jim, that's the first thing that came to mind....starter rebuild. With as many miles as I have on the engine, it wouldn't shock me at all if that wasn't the problem. I was hoping it was simpler than that, but not really expecting it to be.
I'll start sniffing around for that high torque starter you mentioned. Thanks for the comments!
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08-12-2009, 05:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padraig1066
Jim, that's the first thing that came to mind....starter rebuild. With as many miles as I have on the engine, it wouldn't shock me at all if that wasn't the problem. I was hoping it was simpler than that, but not really expecting it to be.
I'll start sniffing around for that high torque starter you mentioned. Thanks for the comments!
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If you decide on the mini starter please check the length of the bolts they send with the starter, Mine bottomed out so a thin shim washer was needed....
Those blind holes can bottom out real easy and crack the block area...
Jim
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08-12-2009, 05:59 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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That's good to know, thanks for that very valuable tip!
What brand starter did you go with?
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08-12-2009, 07:02 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padraig1066
That's good to know, thanks for that very valuable tip!
What brand starter did you go with?
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The starters are modified "Chebby" new, The shop (RB Performance) machines up new bearings for both ends of the starter eliminating the bushings....
I would pick them up (a few years back) at the Long Beach swap meet, Also got a dealor discount ($125.00) per unit but like I said that was a few years back....
I purchased e'nuf and kept them on the shelf but now I'm low BUT retired. If they are still in business they are located in Parker Arizona, 521 West 11th street 85344 (928) 669-6411
Jim
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08-13-2009, 06:53 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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Thanks Jim....I'll try to track 'em down. Appreciate the info!
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08-13-2009, 08:33 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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Another question. I've seen some comments here and there about being given the wrong starter, some with a longer throwout, different number of teeth, etc. So....my first thought would be to take my starter off and take it with me to match up. But should I do anything else, or is this really not a likely issue at all?
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08-14-2009, 10:03 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padraig1066
Another question. I've seen some comments here and there about being given the wrong starter, some with a longer throwout, different number of teeth, etc. So....my first thought would be to take my starter off and take it with me to match up. But should I do anything else, or is this really not a likely issue at all?
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The flex plates are 168 tooth and I've never seen one different, The bolts are different though.....Are your straight or staggard, Mine are staggard.
Jim
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08-14-2009, 01:42 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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Jim, right now I have no idea....the Elandan is about 7 hours away, getting brake work done. First thing I'll check though, when I get ready to replace the starter.
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08-17-2009, 01:36 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vaughn, WA
Posts: 1,460
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The "no hot start" is a common older-Chevy problem.
Sometimes fixed by:
* new solenoid
* rebuilt starter
* new hi-torque starter
* insulating blanket between starter and exhaust manifold
BUT not always.
I had an older Chevy Suburban that plagued me with this issue for YEARS. What finally fixed it was running a new wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch on the dash.
Good Luck!
__________________
Nick
1995 Coachmen Santara 360MB 36' w/slide.
Ford F53/460 chassis, 2020 Chev Equinox "toad"
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08-17-2009, 06:55 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
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Hi Nick
Thanks for the info! Hopefully the fix will be simple (and cheap!). I figure I'll just plan on taking a nice rest every time I need to stop, as I bring this one home.
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