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Old 11-02-2009, 08:04 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammie View Post
Gary, if you still experiance steering wander...

Sammie
I don't know if I posted this before but I too experienced steering wander on my '84 Chieftain. I replaced the steering damper bought a NAPA auto parts store and bought and installed Firestone bags #4100 and rear bags #2080.
It now handles like a limo and rides oh so smooth
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:11 PM   #30
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I probably should have ignored the steering bit, until I get the MH out on the road for more and better testing - what I *think* I'm experiencing IS quite minimal, and needs to be tested on a decent variety of road surfaces - ours here in this immediate area are NOT the best, and take a beating from studded tires in the winter.
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:32 PM   #31
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Jim, and a couple of others have mentioned upgraded exhaust system as a tool towards better power and economy - I've sorta back-burned that approach, since the header and exhaust setup on our 454 actually looks pretty decent. The manifold appears to be of a welded-up tube header design, and the actual exhaust pipe is 2 1/4 inch diameter ID, with the added heat shield seen in the pics:





NO, it isn't 2 1/2 pipe, and doesn't have a cross-over pipe - but all in all, looks good enough to put it on a bit lower priority than other avenues for the time being. If anything, and if the condition of the existing piping would permit, the simple addition of a cross-over pipe and good quality straight-thru mufflers might well be enough for now.

Any more observations or comments?
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:32 PM   #32
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I guess another question related to the above post and pics is, does the exhaust system I have look the same as other OEM from '88, or has it possibly been upgraded at some point before we got it?

All the GM small block stuff *I* have been exposed to in the past, was the cast iron type headers - haven't seen the type seen above as OEM - maybe a 454 BB OEM thing?
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:08 PM   #33
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Gary,
I am not sure if that exhaust is original. If and when you look at headers look at the Doug Thorley Try Y headers they are designed for torque. Most after market headers are built for hotrods and are really only at there best at wide open throttle. The Thorleys develop more torque lower in the rpm range.
I was reading your post and thought I would kick in my 2cents worth.
Have you looked at Summit Racing Equipment web site? I have bought a bunch of parts for my project (88 Drift Wood with a Ford 460). They have been verey helpful on the phone and on line.
http://www.summitracing.com/
I would look to a new MSD billet distributor with vacuum advance they even have one you can adjust the timing and vacuum curve with the turn of a dial.
I went with a standard billet with vacuum advance with a MSD 6A spark box.
I think you are money ahead buying a new dist over getting your old one rebuilt and re curved. The same with your Carb I went with an Edelbrock. I have had good reports on this carb improving economy. You can order it set for leaner/economy rather than the “performance” set up. They are easy to calibrate.
Good luck on your project.
Bill
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:03 AM   #34
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I had a 1989 33' Itasca Windcruiser.....It had a 454 and was on a P30 chassis with a TH450 tranny. The exhaust system was the key thing for me. Headers and full flow mufflers made a world of difference. Then it was cold air intake and MSD ignition stuff. Wires, dist. cap etc. It was getting between 8-9 mpg and it would pull the hills with no problem what-so-ever....If you really are going to keep this coach and you want to go the gamit go for a Banks setup. I know someone that did it on a 89 Cheiftain and Wow did it wake up that coach.......It's only $$$$$$$$ LOL !
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:34 AM   #35
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Quote:
It's only $$$$$$$$
YUP!

And THAT'S the trick, trying to stay objective, and not applying "fixes" that have no HOPE of reasonable payback in the usage we will likely put on the MH...

$1000-$1500 exhaust systems, several hundred $$$ for special ignition, and another few hundred for special Carb and intake....

Yeah, like the old saying:

"IF ya want ECONOMY, ya gotta PAY for it..."

And SOMETIMES, the cost far outpaces the returns in specific applications!

I'll continue focus on ignition/timing upgrades for now, then look closer at exhaust - thanks for the helpful suggestions guy!
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:37 PM   #36
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YUP!

....$1000-$1500 exhaust systems, several hundred $$$ for special ignition, and another few hundred for special Carb and intake....
It's like putting a $500 saddle on a $50 horse...it doesn't make much sense .
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:04 PM   #37
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I think if you do a little research you will find my suggestions for a new distributor and crab are quite cost effective. You have already stated you have no one locally to do the work. The gurus recommended will get top dollar to REBILD your old crab and distributor. What are you going to do if they aren’t right when you get them? I think it would be interesting to get estimates from some of these places and see what the difference between new and rebuilt really is.
You don’t have to buy new headers right now but you should re read my previous comments on header design when you do think about it. You can build your own cold air intake system.
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:30 PM   #38
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You can build your own cold air intake system.
Bill


When the formula was handed over it boiled down to a certain percentage for every 10º drop in temp....
Tony Pedregon (funny car driver) made it super simple when he stated "1 degree" gains 1 HP....
Measured mine on a 115º day with a Walmart digital temp gauge and AT the carb inlet the temp was 165º.....Nice huh.
By adding a rubber snout (84 Blazer) on the air filter housing knocked off a dab over 30º AT the carb....
Purchased some double sided aluminum (bubble wrap) and covered the rest of the air cleaner including the entire snout and in turn the temps dropped to 125º in the same heat and time of the day...
That air intake drop of 40º recovered 40 more ponies and for under $20.00 that's what I consider more bang for the buck....
Thorley headers also provide a good kick in the pants but they are rather pricey....

Jim
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:38 PM   #39
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I think if you do a little research you will find my suggestions for a new distributor and crab are quite cost effective. You have already stated you have no one locally to do the work. The gurus recommended will get top dollar to REBILD your old crab and distributor. What are you going to do if they aren’t right when you get them? I think it would be interesting to get estimates from some of these places and see what the difference between new and rebuilt really is.
You don’t have to buy new headers right now but you should re read my previous comments on header design when you do think about it. You can build your own cold air intake system.
Bill
Our Winnie already has a cold air intake - direct from the front engine bulkhead, directly into the air cleaner, where the K&N air filter is installed. I'm all for improvements in the exhaust system - but will focus on adding a crossover pipe, and new free-flow mufflers, and can only do that, if I can find anyone locally willing and capable of the job. John Day has a population of 2700, and the nearest town of significance as far as specialty shops, is a 250 mile round trip.

I'm in NO way disregarding your suggestions - and by now, some here may figure I'm trying to get 10 pounds of benefit from a 5 gallon bucket, rather, I'm simply measuring them against my own specific reality. The more of these suggestions I read, the better able I am to refine my ongoing efforts.
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:29 PM   #40
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Jim Elliot or someone else here suggested a supplemental fuel pump on these GM 454 gasser engines, since apparently what comes OEM is marginal?

IF so, any suggestions as to brand pump, PSI/flow rate - and perhaps best method/location to install? I have several available pumps on hand - a pair of Carters - one 7 PSI, the other a 15 PSI - the type seen in the pic:



I also have a Walbro high PSI/flow type I could use, but would also need a PSI regulator and bypass valve to return unused fuel back to the tank:



These install like this - another of the Carters seen mounted further on up the line:


Would either (both?) types be adequate?

Or, are they needed at all - be glad to hear any recommendations from experienced owners who have "been there, done that"!
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:17 PM   #41
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Gary, I installed one of those Carter street/strip (7 PSI) pumps on my 83 and finally figured out it don't work all that well....

Pulling hills without the pump on the carb would run dry sooooo with a flip of the switch all was well, Took me some time to figure out the problem since the tech's at Carter flat out stated the "Manual pump" would pull the fuel through the electric.....WRONG JUST FLATOUT INCORRECT.

On the flat/level ground everything was OK but the stock Delco manual pump with return line could NOT suck up e'nuf fuel period on the hills.

Purchased the Edelbrock EDL-1722 with NO return line needed and it pumps out 6 PSI so no regulator is also needed, Flow is 110 GPH.

Just got back from south eastern Arizona (900 miles round trip) with ZERO problems and & down the hills the engine was flawless.....

Had to reclock the new pump which easy......

Jim
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:55 PM   #42
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Gary, I installed one of those Carter street/strip (7 PSI) pumps on my 83 and finally figured out it don't work all that well....

Pulling hills without the pump on the carb would run dry sooooo with a flip of the switch all was well, Took me some time to figure out the problem since the tech's at Carter flat out stated the "Manual pump" would pull the fuel through the electric.....WRONG JUST FLATOUT INCORRECT.

On the flat/level ground everything was OK but the stock Delco manual pump with return line could NOT suck up e'nuf fuel period on the hills.

Purchased the Edelbrock EDL-1722 with NO return line needed and it pumps out 6 PSI so no regulator is also needed, Flow is 110 GPH.

Just got back from south eastern Arizona (900 miles round trip) with ZERO problems and & down the hills the engine was flawless.....

Had to reclock the new pump which easy......

Jim
IF you look closely at the lower pump installs, you will see that BOTH electric pumps have outboard bypass valves installed so the if one stops for any reason, flow instantly diverts AROUND it - in fact, the front pump is actually not powered, but is only a spare in case the Walbro fails - easily engaged if the Walbro fails, and the Walbro is pumping around the Carter, since as you discovered, fuel flow THRU the Carter is usually pretty poor.

This is on my Dodge/Cummins truck, to assure that the injection pump will have proper inlet fuel PSI at all times, since the VP-44 injection pumps sell for over $1000...

Why did you not just let the Carter run steadily, keyed to the ignition? It has it's own internal bypass, so would limit to it's design PSI - they used to have a 3-4 PSI pump as well, if 7 PSI is considered too high for steady operation.

What do you mean by "reclocking" - just changing the intake/outlet port directions?
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